Exhaust eliminator Module

[stevemadge]

Have anyone fitted the Exhaust eliminator module to get round the engine light when the flapper valve inevitably goes wrong. I have cleaned and greased the flapper valve so it works again. But this if it works seem to take the stress away with this failing part at a reasonable cost ?
If so is it just plug and play as the suggest on a GSA

https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese/

 

[PitaNaanRoti]

Been using those on sport bikes for years.
Work well.

 

[TIJ650]

Have anyone fitted the Exhaust eliminator module to get round the engine light when the flapper valve inevitably goes wrong. I have cleaned and greased the flapper valve so it works again. But this if it works seem to take the stress away with this failing part at a reasonable cost ?
If so is it just plug and play as the suggest on a GSA

https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese/

If you’re retaining the flapper valve - I think this might be a waste of money. I removed the flapper cables from 2017 1200GSA 2 years ago and had no lights or fault codes. The actual servo motor still turns, but the flapper is left permanently open since the cables are disconnected.
Having said that, there is a fault registered on my GS-911 when I clear service lights.
Getting rid of flapper and CAT opens Pandora’s box with regards to running lean etc and there’s plenty of chats on here regarding this! Lol


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[stevemadge]

If you’re retaining the flapper valve - I think this might be a waste of money. I removed the flapper cables from 2017 1200GSA 2 years ago and had no lights or fault codes. The actual servo motor still turns, but the flapper is left permanently open since the cables are disconnected.
Having said that, there is a fault registered on my GS-911 when I clear service lights.
Getting rid of flapper and CAT opens Pandora’s box with regards to running lean etc and there’s plenty of chats on here regarding this! Lol


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That was my intention just to unplug the actual servo and just stop the engine light, nothing more. I have oiled and greased the flapper and currently all is ok but its come and gone before and I was just hoping this would remove the constant waiting for the next time the light appears ?

 

[TIJ650]

That was my intention just to unplug the actual servo and just stop the engine light, nothing more. I have oiled and greased the flapper and currently all is ok but its come and gone before and I was just hoping this would remove the constant waiting for the next time the light appears ?

I wouldn’t unplug the connectors to the servo as this will break the messaging loop to the ECU. I simply removed the cables on the pulley between the servo and the flapper. Thus leaving the flapper permanently open - so no need to lubricate


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[hawkeye]

I’ve got one fitted to my R1250GS as I got fed up with the valve sticking and as out of warranty, greasing it up was getting more and regular. Never had an issue with it and my GS has now been through 2 MOT’s with no issue either. Bike a tad noisier on start up for a couple of seconds then settles into its normal burble.

 

[PitaNaanRoti]

I wouldn’t unplug the connectors to the servo as this will break the messaging loop to the ECU. I simply removed the cables on the pulley between the servo and the flapper. Thus leaving the flapper permanently open - so no need to lubricate


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Removing the cables is why you have a fault.
The servo needs to know the start and end point of travel which it now doesn’t. The module does that in place of the cables/servo.

 

[TIJ650]

Removing the cables is why you have a fault.
The servo needs to know the start and end point of travel which it now doesn’t. The module does that in place of the cables/servo.

?? Hell talking about? The servo still rotates (travels) the exact same - it just doesn’t turn the the flapper valve because the braided metal cables are disconnected!


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[PitaNaanRoti]

Wrong. At start up, the can bus rotates the valve open/closed to give a resistance value to the system. It then uses these values to control the valve in use.
Without the cables in place, the servo does not give the correct values which is why there is a fault code shown when using the GS-911.
I helped Healtech with theirs for the Kawasaki's when they first bought them out in the UK way back in 2006/7 so have seen how they register values, etc.
Servobuddy were the first to bring them out in the states but with no UK supply.

 

[TIJ650]

Wrong. At start up, the can bus rotates the valve open/closed to give a resistance value to the system. It then uses these values to control the valve in use.
Without the cables in place, the servo does not give the correct values which is why there is a fault code shown when using the GS-911.
I helped Healtech with theirs for the Kawasaki's when they first bought them out in the UK way back in 2006/7 so have seen how they register values, etc.
Servobuddy were the first to bring them out in the states but with no UK supply.

Kk. Well, I already tried binning the whole flapper and CAT, but reverted back after running lean at mid range. I’ll live with the code on GS-911 cause bike runs okay (which is main objective I guess). Certainly wouldn’t be lubricating flapper etc.


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[casbar]

I wouldn’t unplug the connectors to the servo as this will break the messaging loop to the ECU. I simply removed the cables on the pulley between the servo and the flapper. Thus leaving the flapper permanently open - so no need to lubricate


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That works on older bikes, but not 1250s, as when the valve throws an error code it also illimayes an orange engine warning light which can only be reset with a gs911 or dealer. On 1200s you just used to get an error code on the ecu. So the route is as suggested, before you have a warning light, fit an eliminator module. Just unplugging the cable from the servo also won’t work. The servo only pulls one way, the spring on the flap resets it

 

[TIJ650]

That works on older bikes, but not 1250s, as when the valve throws an error code it also illimayes an orange engine warning light which can only be reset with a gs911 or dealer. On 1200s you just used to get an error code on the ecu. So the route is as suggested, before you have a warning light, fit an eliminator module. Just unplugging the cable from the servo also won’t work. The servo only pulls one way, the spring on the flap resets it

Ah okay, we’ll I did say at beginning I have 6 year old 1200. It seems every year BMW introduces new things to stop you messing with stock setup. I think they’d be better introducing a special edition that fuelled properly and had no restriction on exhaust. I for one would pay at least an extra grand for this. Whatever happened to the old rebellion element of biking


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[Hann]

Removing the cables is why you have a fault.
The servo needs to know the start and end point of travel which it now doesn’t. The module does that in place of the cables/servo.

Musing of a way to defeat the flap without using any plug-ins (or money!) at the moment to see if it is a worthwhile mod.

I can see that the ECU detects how much cable travel is normal through the fully open and fully closed cable/flap stop points.
If the cables are disconnected the servo will see an abnormally large range of cable travel and will throw a wobbly.
If you disconnect the cables and were able to limit the inner cables travel (mimicking the normal cable travel when they are connected and the stops are reached) at an appropriate place on the inner cable - say a screw-on ferrule which would butt up against the outer cable/sheathing, do you think that would be enough to fool the ECU?

 

[siddo]

To fool the ECU on my Multistrada, I fitted a small spring on the cable and it worked perfectly.

 

[M30SJM]

Musing of a way to defeat the flap without using any plug-ins (or money!) at the moment to see if it is a worthwhile mod.

I can see that the ECU detects how much cable travel is normal through the fully open and fully closed cable/flap stop points.
If the cables are disconnected the servo will see an abnormally large range of cable travel and will throw a wobbly.
If you disconnect the cables and were able to limit the inner cables travel (mimicking the normal cable travel when they are connected and the stops are reached) at an appropriate place on the inner cable - say a screw-on ferrule which would butt up against the outer cable/sheathing, do you think that would be enough to fool the ECU?

I recon you might be onto something there.
Fit the ferrules slack and let the bike pull the inner cable through the ferrule then nip them up.
I might do this myself.
Stu

 

[Hann]

I might do this myself.
Stu

There`s a few designs of stopper that might do the trick;

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What year is your bike, clocks or TFT?

It may also need a moderately-rated spring added to the cable/s to assist when they`re `pushing` to prevent them from bending up/binding at the servo end where the original spring is not pulling on them in their `relaxed` direction of travel?
I`m gonna` have a look at mine tomoz to see what`s what..

 

[freddyfruitbat]

Just to tag on to this thread with my own 'bloody flapper valve' problem...

I've currently got mine in bits, having wended my way to this point from a ECU warning light out of the blue, via a visit to the the mothership ("£1700? You must be kidding) and the excellent 'Just The Way It Is' Youtube vid (I'd literally never heard of this valve, or serviced it, before taking in the bike to BMW). My flapper valve was completely seized solid, but after two days of repeated applications of WD40 it's finally moving. Somewhat. I can just move it with my fingers, but only just. I'm guessing that's not going to be enough... how free should it be? Is it meant to flick freely to and fro against the spring?

Poised to click 'buy' on that £40 Healtech dongle, but would prefer to fix this properly if I can.

 

[ChazzyB]

Dunno about using oil and grease to lube the valve spindle. It will burn and carbonise. High temperature nickel paste is what I use. Permatex 77134. I work it around the spindle ends with a cotton bud.

IME, you can't move the valve by hand unless you release the cables.

 

[freddyfruitbat]

Dunno about using oil and grease to lube the valve spindle. It will burn and carbonise. High temperature nickel paste is what I use. Permatex 77134. I work it around the spindle ends with a cotton bud.

I hear what you're saying about not using oil for fear of it carbonising; however given that my spindle was 100% seized there's no way that any form of paste was going to penetrate; hence I followed the WD40 advice. Fingers crossed.

IME, you can't move the valve by hand unless you release the cables.

The cables are indeed released, but it's still pretty stiff, hence my query. I have no idea how much resistance there should be, and how much force the cables provide in normal use.

 

[Bigcats]

I hear what you're saying about not using oil for fear of it carbonising; however given that my spindle was 100% seized there's no way that any form of paste was going to penetrate; hence I followed the WD40 advice. Fingers crossed.


The cables are indeed released, but it's still pretty stiff, hence my query. I have no idea how much resistance there should be, and how much force the cables provide in normal use.

Yeah I also cleaned mine a couple of times and used copper grease etc (and leaving it covered in copper grease) but its now completely failed...this bike had less than 3500 miles when I bought it (2019 GSA)

Thankfully though its under warranty and going in this Saturday to be fixed (I am hoping a new set of headers though) at which point I think I shall fit one of these eliminators