a bit of preventive maintenance over the winter, along with FD spline lube......
Exhaust flap
- Thread starter Santa-2512
- Start date
a bit of preventive maintenance over the winter, along with FD spline lube......
That's what should be happening when you switch on the ignition... (the initial beep is the alarm at ignition on, nothing to do with the valve!)
If you whip off the silencer, you can check it visually.
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Thanks. That's exactly how it sounds
There are no faults shown on the kombi for twin cams, just possibly chirping from the servo motor,
The LC models do have fault codes displayed
The LC models do have fault codes displayed
On my 1200 TC (2012) I just removed the cables and opened the flap to fully open. Couple of bolts in the cable housing to cover the holes ment for the cables. Worked fine and I couldn’t tell any difference when riding.So my squeaky noise is due the the flap being stuck
I've manage to free it off and its moving again, albeit not full travel
I'm wondering if the reason they stick is stretch in the cable, which means they dont turn! And then sticking is the only thing left !!!
Anyway I've just had a price on a replacement, reassuringly expensive is the best way to take it
I was thinking of removing the old one and dropping it in an ultrasonic bath to see if that will shift the crap that's stuck in there ??
It looks like the bottom ( not gubbins end) bearing is the issue, I'm wondering if I can get the cap off, whether i could pack the cap with grease and refit
Thoughts
Not at least up to 2015, perhaps during one of the refreshes after then?
Someone recommended WEICON, +1400C, never had a problem. Bit expensive. Part of maintenance.
Attachments
Useful looking stuff
Looks like it’s made from hydrated lime and very nasty to the eyes so wear eye protection when using the stuff.
I’m sticking to a high nickel solids paste.
I’m sticking to a high nickel solids paste.
yep it will store the codes
I thought this one
Not at that price mate !!!
Buy the stuff from Simply Bearings that Martin suggests above, along with a small artists/model makers brush.
You only need to paint a tiny amount into the shaft bearing areas and work it in.
I wasn't thinking of buying a whole tub - it'd last for ever. TBH mine has lasted 25k since it's last freeing off so won't be buying anything until it gives up again.
Personally I would lubricate it just for the sake of preventive maintenance.
Its only a five minute job.
Its only a five minute job.
For those of you lubricating this valve. Can I ask how you're doing it?
I did try this once, but I have to admit that I couldn't easily see how to get any grease into where it mattered (the bearings either side of the shaft). There's hardly any gaps to stuff it into - of course I tried - meaning I'm not entire sure how successful it is?
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I did try this once, but I have to admit that I couldn't easily see how to get any grease into where it mattered (the bearings either side of the shaft). There's hardly any gaps to stuff it into - of course I tried - meaning I'm not entire sure how successful it is?
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Paint a thin coating of the nickel paste around the bushing/spindle. When it heats up from the exhaust gas temperature, capillary action should draw some of it into the bushings.
My method is going to be ,
Syringe of Special lube Nickel /graphite past
squirt onto butterfly spindle at lower & upper point then move spindle back and forth, until the blob of lube has seeped into the gap in the shaft ( or as close as)
if i can get the end cap off, ill attack the bearing from that side
Syringe of Special lube Nickel /graphite past
squirt onto butterfly spindle at lower & upper point then move spindle back and forth, until the blob of lube has seeped into the gap in the shaft ( or as close as)
if i can get the end cap off, ill attack the bearing from that side
Being a euro 5 RnineT mine is a bit quiet so I’ve tried removing the cables as the consensus is that it’s just for noise reduction, but the bike doesn’t seem to have the same mid range shove without the flap connected, am I wrong in thinking this?
If it was a two stroke, which requires back pressure to help seal the open port during the exhaust cycle ,
I'd have said absolutely, spot on ....
But its a four stroke, so the exhaust port is closed once the exhaust gasses have exited the chamber ,
Any pressure going back toward the cylinder will meet a closed valve.
I'm no exhaust expert, and I've often wondered why they have the balance pipe between the two cylinders, why not remove and have a bmw burble ??
Ah just doing some googling - the backpressure is for scavenging apparently
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