Farkle development including the front crud

Whoops. Sorry to hear that. I thought that I used to be the only one who would decide to give a screw, a nut or a bolt one extra little turn to get it nice and tight, only to strip the thread or snap the bolt.

I do hope that you get it sorted asap and with as little hassle as possible

+1:topic I did the same with a tv trying to put a wall mount on it :blast
had to take the back of the tv off and went in that way .
back on topic,
Photos when your ready Mark of the powder coated one world , blingy deflector:flag
 
and the annoying this is that I was using a torque wrench. Normally it clicks repeatedly when it reaches the torque - this time it only clicked once and I wasn't sure if it had reached the right torque....so like an idiot...kept tightening :blast

Found some tools, but they all involve drilling...not sure I want to be drilling into the engine block. I am wondering whether its even worth bothering to remove it - is it ever likely that the front of the engine is ever going to need to be opened up? Might just WD40 the hole and leave it. :nenau
 
and the annoying this is that I was using a torque wrench. Normally it clicks repeatedly when it reaches the torque - this time it only clicked once and I wasn't sure if it had reached the right torque....so like an idiot...kept tightening :blast

Found some tools, but they all involve drilling...not sure I want to be drilling into the engine block. I am wondering whether its even worth bothering to remove it - is it ever likely that the front of the engine is ever going to need to be opened up? Might just WD40 the hole and leave it. :nenau

A picture would help to give advice.
 
A picture would help to give advice.

My office PC wont let me upload a photo. If you go the 1st page of this thread and look at the picture of the crud catcher. On the left hand side of the engine block are 3 bolts. Its the 3rd one down from the top, right next to the crud catcher.

The bolt has snapped off about 1cm in the hole.
 
You will probably ok to leave it in, but having shelled out the cash for the bike, a decent engineering shop should be able to drill it out for twenty quid.

It's go to be worth it for piece if mind if nothing else.
 
You will probably ok to leave it in, but having shelled out the cash for the bike, a decent engineering shop should be able to drill it out for twenty quid.

It's go to be worth it for piece if mind if nothing else.

+1.

If you ever need any warranty work done on the engine, maybe even clutch, then it could be a possible get out clause for BUMW. I wouldn't leave it.

Also I never use a torque wrench for smallish bolts, hand tight is all they need, if worried then a small dab of loctite. A torque wrench gives to much levereage on small bolts & if it doesn't click for some reason the next thing you know is when the bolt shears. I've screwed up with the clicking before and learn't from experience.:rob
 
Guys,

Does anyone know how I might be able to remove a snapped bolt in the engine block? I was installing the front crud catcher - I removed the wrong bolt so put it back in...over tightened and it snapped :tears

Is there an easy way to get the half bolt out of the hole without having to resort to going to BMW for a hefty labour charge to drill it out? Any tools I could use to try and turn the half bolt and unscrew it?

:blast

There is a tool that will drill a small hole into the centre of the stripped bolt and remove it, then you can just undo the bolt. I don't have one, but have done the same as you a couple of years ago, and my local dealer removed the bolt in about 10 minutes.:thumb If you have a good relationship with your dealer, they'll have this sorted for you in a jiffy, and not charge much.:beerjug:
 
I would remove all the bolts around the engine cover, than remove cover and see if there is enough clearance to get a pair of mole grips on the broken bolt .
 
mmmm.... the removal process doesn't look too difficult (famous last words). However I know how ham fisted I can be!

I might investigate the Easy Out option..and if I lose my bottle, ask Vines to drill it out when it next goes in for a service or engine bars.
 
I would remove all the bolts around the engine cover, than remove cover and see if there is enough clearance to get a pair of mole grips on the broken bolt .

That seems like a good idea, but I'm a bit worried about damaging any gasket under the cover.
 
In the past I've found myself elbows deep in a job I'm incapable of completing.

These days if I'm unsure I go to the experts and I'm happy to shell out the cash. In the long run and in the interests of a stress free life, it's worth it!
 
mmmm.... the removal process doesn't look too difficult (famous last words). However I know how ham fisted I can be!

I might investigate the Easy Out option..and if I lose my bottle, ask Vines to drill it out when it next goes in for a service or engine bars.

If you're going to Vines in Guildford, speak to their technician Mark as he did mine for me.:thumb
 
If you're going to Vines in Guildford, speak to their technician Mark as he did mine for me.:thumb

Redhill is my dealer.
I'm going to take a run down there tomorrow and get their opinion on it and see how much they'll charge and then take it from there.
 
The weather is lovely so why not ride up to see Mr Hooton with a couple of bottles of red?

It is his thread after all...
 
Nice idea...but too far and would involve too much motorway

M25, M11 then A1 to Newark.

A1133 to Gainsborough is a cracking road and then you go back roads to Scotter into sunny Scunny.

I am giving you a perfect excuse to have a nice ride out! :D
 
M25, M11 then A1 to Newark.

A1133 to Gainsborough is a cracking road and then you go back roads to Scotter into sunny Scunny.

I am giving you a perfect excuse to have a nice ride out! :D


You are :D but it will still be rush there and back in a day.

However, I am going up to York on the 19th July :rolleyes:

I'll drop into BMW tomorrow and see what they say and how much...who knows, they may offer to do it for me a fiver, while I am there :nenau

Otherwise, I may ask Mr Hooton whether he can help me on the 19th.

Anyway....I dont want to derail this thread anymore...thanks all for the suggestions.
 
Quote:
Nice idea...but too far and would involve too much motorway
M25, M11 then A1 to Newark.

A1133 to Gainsborough is a cracking road and then you go back roads to Scotter into sunny Scunny.

I am giving you a perfect excuse to have a nice ride out!

Pyramid Plastics are based in Gainsborough, so if you are wanting a front fender extender to compliment your crud catcher, you can call in and buy one on the way to Marc's place, for £15.00 cash.

I went there yesterday and bought one, seemed like a nice bunch, they gave me one with experimental adhesive pads, so no screws or fixings required. I fitted it last night and it is still on my bike.

The boss 'Ben' said if it falls off I'll give you a replacement, can't be fairer than that. Also they asked me if they could borrow my bike to use as a pattern for developing new kit, I said, 'I've only owned the bike for one day' that finished the conversation re me handing over my new love!
However they do want a bike and I would imagine that they will give the lender some free kit for the loan!
 
You will probably ok to leave it in, but having shelled out the cash for the bike, a decent engineering shop should be able to drill it out for twenty quid.

It's go to be worth it for piece if mind if nothing else.

+1 :thumb

or come up and see me and I`ll do it for wine...............

But TBH you should have a local company who can do it
 


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