FD bearing replacement....not gone well

[Welly]

R1150GS 2002 60,000 miles, non ABS
Has a full dealer sevice history up until 47,000 miles, when I bought it off my mate who had owned it since new.
I've since done all the routine servicing on it.



Ahead of a trip to Norway i decided to replace the big bearing in the final drive as I've had some movement in the rear wheel (disappears with rear brake applied) and its still running on the original.

I used the tried and trusted DIY method outlined on here several times.

Removed the old bearing no problem and stuck crown wheel in freezer overnight.
Today I heated up the new bearing in the oven and dropped it into place but it didn't go all the way down. I guess I didnt get the bearing hot enough.

Ive now got a new bearing partially on thats stuck, about 1 cm from fully home and at a slight angle.

So my quesions are :

Is all lost? I'll just need to whack off the new bearing then buy another and find a shop that can press it on for me ?

Or should I try and find a place that could finish pressing the current one on for me? ( I'm concerned the slight angle its sitting at may compromise the bearing if its pressed on now)

Or buy a new bearing and heat this one to within an inch of its life before dropping it on.

I'm in Aberdeenshire so if anyone knows of a place that could do this I'd welcome any suggestions. Got a call into John Clark the local Aberdeen BMW dealer to see what they would charge me to do it assuming they'd touch it.



It was all going so well too..........

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Heat the cockeyed bearing up with a decent heat source like a propane torch. If you stick enough heat into it and gentle tap it to straighten it, it should go, either on or off depending on which direction you desire.

If you have a set of bearing pullers even better with some heat to straighten the bearing.

Make sure you don’t put too much heat into the bearing. If it starts to change colour, it’s toast.

 

[theoneandonly]

being rough .... press it on , you need a press , chock the low side , and even it all up .
or
chock the side that is high , and use a wedge on the side that is low .

at all times ....only push on the inner race .

and this is why mechanics, love home mechanics.

we have to undo what you have done , and then do it properly. hence a bill 1 and a half times bigger, than just doing the whole job .

ps , you aren't the first , and you won't be the last.

 

[Tristafarian]

Yeah you won't have any troubles sorting that out and you'll have saved yourself 9/10ths of having a mechanic do it. Even if you have to replace the bearing.


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[Steptoe]

Get yourself an old sandwich toaster, I’ve a couple, one I bought at a boot sale many years ago, the other came out of a neighbours skip. The perfect tool for heating up bearings of all sizes, and evenly as both sides get toasted, 3/4 minutes heating and drops straight onto the wheel flange ��

 

[Welly]

Many thanks for the replies.

Today I heated the bearing up and carefully levered it off against the inner race.

So I'll give it another go and heat the bearing up better second time around and make sure I drop it on straight.

I will use the sandwich toaster idea.

 

[leadfarmer]

Not familiar with these in particular but when changing taper roller wheel bearings I’ve often used the inner race of the old bearing as a drift and just hammered the new bearing home, you can straighten the new one by tapping on the higher side

For straight bearings I’ve used the old outer race in the same manner

 

[Steptoe]

Not familiar with these in particular but when changing taper roller wheel bearings I’ve often used the inner race of the old bearing as a drift and just hammered the new bearing home, you can straighten the new one by tapping on the higher side

For straight bearings I’ve used the old outer race in the same manner

That method won’t work in this case. The bearing sits very deep on the output flange so you’ll need a couple of old bearings to sit it fully home, and then you’ll need to get off the old bearings you’ve used as drifts

 

[Steptoe]

Many thanks for the replies.

Today I heated the bearing up and carefully levered it off against the inner race.

So I'll give it another go and heat the bearing up better second time around and make sure I drop it on straight.

I will use the sandwich toaster idea.

Also heat up the final drive cover plate ( using the sandwich toaster ) and drop the output flange into the cover. Don’t force the flange into the cover, it’ll side load the bearing and it’ll fail in a very very short time.

 

[Welly]

Also heat up the final drive cover plate ( using the sandwich toaster ) and drop the output flange into the cover. Don’t force the flange into the cover, it’ll side load the bearing and it’ll fail in a very very short time.

Thanks ��.

I also plan to install the seal once I have the FD installed on the bike. Or is it best to put the seal into the cover then heat it up and drop the output flange in then stick everything on the bike?

 

[Welly]

All done

All sorted now and back together. Test ride and all seems well.

This time I heated the bearing up properly and took care to line it up before I dropped it on. And I hedged my bets by putting the crown wheel in the freezer overnight.
Dropped on with a satisfying sound.

Thanks for the advice given.

 

[Tristafarian]

What are you going to spend the hundreds you've saved doing it yourself on?


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[Welly]

What are you going to spend the hundreds you've saved doing it yourself on?


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I've already spent it on celebratory beers