FD leak again?

Thanks John, I think I'll order the two available guards from Wunderlich anyway, they're only €19.99 each. I'm a little disappointed with the look of the rear hub after removal of the spade.............. it looks very obvious that something has been removed (if that makes sense)

Sent using a Jedi mind trick!

Some inspiration. Chop the shovel off and use the stump for one of these ;)

tail-end-customs_v-star-650_power-piston.jpg
 
Also, noticed some pink stuff on the threads of some of the bolts when taking the FD off. Is this a type of Loctite?

My Foreman at the dealers used to have a grin on his face when new bolts arrived with the Pink stuff on them

He'd walk down the steps to the workshop and announce "Micro Encapsulated threadlock" whilst holding the Bolts up as Trophies :Aidan
 
Well mine has just failed at 8700 miles after dropping it' contents in one quick go. :eek:

Needless to say not pleased (bike is out of warranty and I'm the second owner starting to actually put some mileage on it!)

So another FD going to Mikeyboy for repair :aidan
 
Sorry to hear that. Very annoying.
Did think of changing but this bike suits me better than anything else available. Plus, would have fix it anyway.
I'd bought mine last year with only 13k miles in five years. Now at 28k.
My opinion is that the PO power washed it and then it sat for long periods. Hence the corrosion that did for the cheap seal, quickly followed by the biggie!
Looking at the oil, I'm doubting that it was ever changed either.
 
Sorry to hear that. Very annoying.
Did think of changing but this bike suits me better than anything else available. Plus, would have fix it anyway.
I'd bought mine last year with only 13k miles in five years. Now at 28k.
My opinion is that the PO power washed it and then it sat for long periods. Hence the corrosion that did for the cheap seal, quickly followed by the biggie!
Looking at the oil, I'm doubting that it was ever changed either.

I first changed my FD oil at about 35K miles soon after I bought the bike. The stuff was HORRIBLE - sulphur stinking and claggy. I ran it with new oil for a few hundred miles than changed that out. After that, it was done every engine oil change and always clean until the seal failed at 50K. I always add at least 200ml and would add more if I could be sure the oil would not churn. Frothy oil won't lubricate properly.

Would it have lasted a lot longer if the FD oil had been better serviced from new? Who knows but it can't do any harm.
 
Well mine has just failed at 8700 miles after dropping it' contents in one quick go. :eek:

Needless to say not pleased (bike is out of warranty and I'm the second owner starting to actually put some mileage on it!)

So another FD going to Mikeyboy for repair :aidan
Well I was right about something damaging the seal,it came from the inside though:blast
 

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If you suspect seal failure on these later drives don't ride it.
I have Seen a few bearing cage failures,there are no symptoms,no roughness or noise.
Prior to stripping is was taking a real close look and could hear the loose bearings clicking as I moved it.:eek:
Not good




Edit,as a rider and someone who knows his way around these drives,I wouldn't like to experience bearing collapse at speed,let's just say it would slow down pretty fucking quickly,
Whether it's shiny side up or not is another story
 
Think I've solved my problem, although some purists might disagree.
Was in touch with Mikeyboy and for the later, breather type it would cost £430 for a full rebuild. No criticism to him, I know that there's a lot of expert work involved.
Also, as Bendy pointed out, the paint on my FD isn't the greatest so including a repaint and p&p, it was heading for £500. :eek:
Reading some older posts, I think that mine had maybe been power washed and there may be corrosion where the seal is.
Started sniffing around my favourite place, eBay, and have bought this from a breaker in the Netherlands. They seem to be much cheaper to buy in Europe. £335 including p&p.
It's dark grey instead of silver as its from an R nine T. I can live with that. So, it's no more than two years old and was removed from a crashed bike with only 4800km!
This one will have it's oil changed religiously with the stuff Bendy recommended. Have the bottle sitting waiting in the shed.
Also means I have a spare FD if I feel the need to get it refurbished at a future date.
If you want to part with your old fd:thumb
It would be nice to have a serviced/exchange unit on the shelf ,for those "oh shit" the ferry is booked moments:comfort
Core units are really welcome,it's not viable to buy usable ones for refurb:bow
 
Pretty impressed!
The FD that I'd ordered from a breaker in the Netherlands on Sunday evening arrived today.
Exactly as shown in the pics with no corrosion or lumps out of it. Just a few specks of tar. It did have a bit of oil over it in the polythene bag but it was just oil that had spilled from the breather during transit. Looked clear enough and did have that cloying smell that seems to catch you at the back of the throat. I'll make sure that its completely drained and refilled once its back on the bike.
The stamps on it indicate that it was made in November 2014. So, assuming it would probably have been registered in January 2015 and going by its condition, I would say that the 4800kms is probably accurate. The gearing ratio stamp is the same as a GS, too.
God love them, they even left the ABS sensor in place, too. Do no harm to have a spare one of those.
Can't put it back on the bike yet. Waiting for a long reach T40 Torx to undo the disc bolts to transfer the disc over. Ordinary Torx socket can't get at it.
Should have it all back together on Friday.
Could have done without it but, all in all, getting away with an excellent unit delivered in two days for a total of £335 was a good result.
 
Well done on the new FD.

While you wait for tools to arrive, mask along the joint line and paint it over with Hammerite smooth. That will help to reduce or maybe stop corrosion creeping under the joint edge.
 
I'm thinking paint a strip over the exiting paint perhaps 6 to 10mm each side of the joint line. the OEM paint mega tough, so a "stick to anything" primer could be handy.
 
Not worried about the difference between them. Think the contrast will look fine.
It was bendy's idea about a strip of hammerite around the FD to prevent corrosion that may not work due to colour difference.
Did consider changing the swing arm, quite cheap to buy. But then the engine colour would be wrong.... :toungincheek
 
Not worried about the difference between them. Think the contrast will look fine.
It was bendy's idea about a strip of hammerite around the FD to prevent corrosion that may not work due to colour difference.
Did consider changing the swing arm, quite cheap to buy. But then the engine colour would be wrong.... :toungincheek

See if you can get a reasonable colour match. The paint only has to go over the joint enough to seal it so the paint could be same colour as the back plate.

If you do decide to paint the swing arm, get it lightly grit bladed to dull the paint shine then you can prime and paint over with Barbie pink if you like. :)
 


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