Fed up kicking.

Brendan

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Sligo, Ireland.
Hi, the leg is starting to wear out and I need this sorted out soon.

R50 1969starts easily when cold but is a pain in the a*se when hot.

As part of a restoration we have replaced with new the following items;
Carbs, coil, points, condenser, advance mechanism, plugs, plug caps, ht leads, valves, valve guides, piston rings and cylinders honed. All gaskets and seals as necessary. timing set up correctly, carbs balanced as per spec.
battery also replaced with 2 x 6volt cyclones in a rubberised case.
Any ideas greatly appreciated
 
I reckon MAGNETO coil is fecked, as on Packers one...
new mag cured it immediately :thumb2

BEMW of Derby is your saviour :D

http://www.bemw.co.uk/index.aspx

Thanks for the input. I have replaced the coil with a new one. With the new coil fitted and engine hot enough to not start easy, I meggered the coil and found no breakdown in insulation between the windings.
 
Hi, the leg is starting to wear out and I need this sorted out soon.

R50 1969starts easily when cold but is a pain in the a*se when hot.

As part of a restoration we have replaced with new the following items;
Carbs, coil, points, condenser, advance mechanism, plugs, plug caps, ht leads, valves, valve guides, piston rings and cylinders honed. All gaskets and seals as necessary. timing set up correctly, carbs balanced as per spec.
battery also replaced with 2 x 6volt cyclones in a rubberised case.
Any ideas greatly appreciated


When you start the bike cold I assume you use the choke. When you try starting the bike warm I would think that you shouldn't need choke, as the bike is already warm. But the bike isn't strating as you expect.

With this in mind, have you tried using the choke (and your normal cold start procedure) when the bike is warm? Is it possible there is a blockage in one of the jets, or that the mixture is simply too lean to allow it to start when warm?

---------------------
It isn't quite the same but may be worth a try; We have some elderly 125cc machines and I have noticed that when starting it's best not to use any throttle at all. If one does, then the bike will never fire up no matter how much one trys.

With the throttle completely closed the engine will fire instantly, but will chugg as if it needs throttle. However if you give it a little throttle it will sdimply stall.

I found that the trick is to just let it chugg for about 5-10 seconds and then open the throttle very gently. Once the revs have built up and the engine is running smoothely it can be ridden as normal. :nenau


Val.
 
Hi Val, to all your questions and suggestions the answer is yes. I've tried the choke open, closed, in between. same for the throttle.
Regarding your 125cc's starting I've the same situation with a Honda CB250 and a Honda CBF250 and they have been that way from new.

Cheers
Brendan
 
What carbs are on your R50 ???

All I've ever seen are tickle ones.. no choke .....as such..

A pic of the bike may help as I'm getting confused now :confused:

Even when hot, I can start them as long as fuel is off when parked>> turn on>> 2 second tickle on carbs>> NO Throttle>> one, two kicks at most and Brummm Brummm..:thumb2

If yours has the center canister airfilter with the sliding choke, forget it !! the're a waste of space...imho
 
What carbs are on your R50 ???

All I've ever seen are tickle ones.. no choke .....as such..

A pic of the bike may help as I'm getting confused now :confused:

Even when hot, I can start them as long as fuel is off when parked>> turn on>> 2 second tickle on carbs>> NO Throttle>> one, two kicks at most and Brummm Brummm..:thumb2

If yours has the center canister airfilter with the sliding choke, forget it !! the're a waste of space...imho

Hey Proff, frustration has set in to such a point that I'm now answering questions with pure and utter sh*te (wouldn't make a great eye witness would I). There's no choke on the bike :blast::blast

The carbs are Bings and as you said they are tickle type, no actual choke. Model of right carb 1-24146, left carb 1-24145. Various types of tickles have been tried from none to flooding the bas*ard.

From speaking to some people today the suggestions are coming back as follows;
Most likely first,
1. Sticky tappet when hot.
2. Condenser
 
Hey Proff, frustration has set in to such a point that I'm now answering questions with pure and utter sh*te (wouldn't make a great eye witness would I). There's no choke on the bike :blast::blast

The carbs are Bings and as you said they are tickle type, no actual choke. Model of right carb 1-24146, left carb 1-24145. Various types of tickles have been tried from none to flooding the bas*ard.

From speaking to some people today the suggestions are coming back as follows;
Most likely first,
1. Sticky tappet when hot.
2. Condenser

Drop a PM to Packer, he's got the same bike and is getting very VERY handy at fettling her now :bow
The condenser should ALWAYS be changed when you renew points, they are temperamental little bastards...:green gri
 
I cant beleive I am posting this - but it just may work

If tipping a hot kettleful of hot water on yer carbs on a later bike helps um start when its cold

Why not try with a cold kettle full when they warm - to cool um
All you need carry then is a Kettle :D

Good luck - back to me wine :thumb2
 
I cant beleive I am posting this - but it just may work

If tipping a hot kettleful of hot water on yer carbs on a later bike helps um start when its cold

Why not try with a cold kettle full when they warm - to cool um
All you need carry then is a Kettle :D

Good luck - back to me wine :thumb2

That's a realllllllly good idea. As an improvement on cooling the carbs why not keep them cool and just leave the fecking thing in the shed and by a bicycle. I'd probably get further with less use of my legs.

Now where's the beer:beer:
 
Had an old trials bike ,points etc ,started first time every time kicked the shit out it when warm ,condenser was fecked.
 


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