Filler Cap 4 Screws Problem -Well 1 Of Them.

Macca2321

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Hi All,

So I was excited this evening to fit my SW-MOTECH tank bag. I have the filler cap with no screws and so like the GiVI bags you need to replace the original outer ring. Simple enough.

I have the 1200 GSA (2010). The fours screws you see when you open up need removing but one of then is completely shredded. How the heck can I get this out. ? I will also need to get replacement of course. Does anyone know the size? Maybe a member has come across this before.

IMG_1289.jpeg
 

No 2 x 4, however i think you may need longer ones

Ive fitted one to the hexhead and one to the LC but i cant remember which one needed the longer ones

it may have been the LC and they came in the kit,

you will if i recall have to change the way the fuel flap pivots - but the instructions in the kit should show you how

and they dont need a lot of torque when you tighten them up !!!
 
Hi All,

So I was excited this evening to fit my SW-MOTECH tank bag. I have the filler cap with no screws and so like the GiVI bags you need to replace the original outer ring. Simple enough.

I have the 1200 GSA (2010). The fours screws you see when you open up need removing but one of then is completely shredded. How the heck can I get this out. ? I will also need to get replacement of course. Does anyone know the size? Maybe a member has come across this before.

View attachment 324492
A few ideas for removing the damaged torx screw:
(Tape over the opening into the tank, you don't want debris or tools getting in there.)
1) Soak it in penetrating oil (my favorite is plus-gas) for a couple of days.
2) Force in a hex bit that digs into the damaged head.
3) Use a Dremmel to cut a slot across the head so you can use a big flat screwdriver blade.
4) Drill it with a drill the same size as the thread until the head falls off, but you will then have the problem of removing the rest.
 
A few ideas for removing the damaged torx screw:
(Tape over the opening into the tank, you don't want debris or tools getting in there.)
1) Soak it in penetrating oil (my favorite is plus-gas) for a couple of days.
2) Force in a hex bit that digs into the damaged head.
3) Use a Dremmel to cut a slot across the head so you can use a big flat screwdriver blade.
4) Drill it with a drill the same size as the thread until the head falls off, but you will then have the problem of removing the rest.
All good advice and the way to go before you get the drill out

One addition might be to try the next size up torx bit? Another option! Though it's a bum position because all the surrounding area is plastic, so you can't thump too hard... Oiling it for a day or two as mentioned above will definitely help

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
 
Hi guys thanks for all the replies. I can report that Smiffys idea of oil and Slippers idea of a bigger hex did the job. :)

Thanks Santa for the link. I now know the info and so will try and get hold of replacement. I actually put the bad screw back in but can get it out again after a test. Don’t want to leave it like that of course.

I’m not really a tank bag fan and this one is still a bit bigger than I thought but I really like it now it’s on. I think tank bag is just your own taste.

IMG_1294.jpeg
 
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Hi guys thanks for all the replies. I can report that Smiffys idea of oil and Slippers idea of a bigger hex did the job. :)

Thanks Santa for the link. I now know the info and so will try and get hold of replacement. I actually put the bad screw back in but can get it out again after a test. Don’t want to leave it like that of course.

I’m not really a tank bag fan and this one is still a bit bigger than I thought but I really like it now it’s on. I think tank bag is just your own taste.

View attachment 324624
Bigger, feck me i'll post some pics of mine. Thats a tiddler
 
I've used the Dremel trick, cutting a slot for a flathead screwdriver lots of times with good success.

It does, however, tend to generate a lot of sparks......

Not sure I'd be doing it that close to the fuel filler.
 
Any more pics of the tank bag...I was looking at one of these or the next one up... Want a bit more space in there, more than my tiny 'engage' bag will fit.

Looks good

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
 
It was very easy to fit ( apart from the screw ) . I think they look great and really good quality. You get a waterproof cover also and yeah it’s a tiddler haha but that’s all I wanted and need really.

I still have my BMW GSA one but it’s just too big although it does look good. I’ll post a couple more pics in the morning Slippery.

Santa, nice bike mate and the tank bag looks big enough for you to drop all the presents off each year :-) What do you actually put in it out of interest ? I guess we all have our own ideas of what does where what’s best for us. I keep maybe wallet, sunglasse, few snacks and a bottle of water, something like that.

All down to our own taste. I like your ‘side bags’ on the front. I could do with some of those maybe. They looks good.
 
It was very easy to fit ( apart from the screw ) . I think they look great and really good quality. You get a waterproof cover also and yeah it’s a tiddler haha but that’s all I wanted and need really.

I still have my BMW GSA one but it’s just too big although it does look good. I’ll post a couple more pics in the morning Slippery.

Santa, nice bike mate and the tank bag looks big enough for you to drop all the presents off each year :) What do you actually put in it out of interest ? I guess we all have our own ideas of what does where what’s best for us. I keep maybe wallet, sunglasse, few snacks and a bottle of water, something like that.

All down to our own taste. I like your ‘side bags’ on the front. I could do with some of those maybe. They looks good.

So in the tankbag
Jetboil,
gas canister (i have the bigger one so it dosent fit in the JB)
Plastic container / Coffee/ sugar / Coffee mate / Spoon)
Weekender - Large power bank
Bottle of water
Usb cables
Sandwiches
In the top i have my plastic ziplock documents
Round the edges, roll of electrical tape ,cable ties, diesel gloves, plasters
You can pack more in, I've had an SLR in there as well at one time

In the crash bar bags
Disklock
Cable ties
Electrical tape
Allen keys
Small spanners
Small screwdrivers
Sidecutters
Pack of bits for screwdriver
 
These are the tools to shift knackered bolts/screws. I've used them on aircraft for about 30 years almost on a weekly basis. They have never failed me. The long pointy extractors have a tendency to snap leaving you in a world of pain.
View attachment 326274
They look interesting, where can I get a set pls?
 
No ...No... No....

No need for dremels, hammering in oversized Hex keys etc etc.

There are dedicated, relatively inexpensive bit sets you can buy just for the removal of damaged Torx fasteners, and only Torx fasteners such as those the professionals use.

Use the correct tool for the job, I have two sets for different access jobs:



I also keep similar dedicated tool sets for damaged Hex (Allen) headed bolts/screws, rounded off bolts and nuts etc as its usually late on a weekend job when you strip a torx/hex head out or round off a bolt/nut.

I hate to see a bad job turn much worse when the bodgers tools and methods come out.

Other handy stuff:



This last one was a lifesaver when my VW T5.1 EGR cooler needed replacing:

 
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No ...No... No....

No need for dremels, hammering in oversized Hex keys etc etc.

There are dedicated, relatively inexpensive bit sets you can buy just for the removal of damaged Torx fasteners, and only Torx fasteners such as those the professionals use.

Use the correct tool for the job, I have two sets for different access jobs:



I also keep similar dedicated tool sets for damaged Hex (Allen) headed bolts/screws, rounded off bolts and nuts etc as its usually late on a weekend job when you strip a torx/hex head out or round off a bolt/nut.

I hate to see a bad job turn much worse when the bodgers tools and methods come out.

Other handy stuff:



This last one was a lifesaver when my VW T5.1 EGR cooler needed replacing:

Thanks for the tip. I had no idea you could get torx extractors. EDIASD
 
No ...No... No....

No need for dremels, hammering in oversized Hex keys etc etc.

There are dedicated, relatively inexpensive bit sets you can buy just for the removal of damaged Torx fasteners, and only Torx fasteners such as those the professionals use.

Use the correct tool for the job, I have two sets for different access jobs:



I also keep similar dedicated tool sets for damaged Hex (Allen) headed bolts/screws, rounded off bolts and nuts etc as its usually late on a weekend job when you strip a torx/hex head out or round off a bolt/nut.

I hate to see a bad job turn much worse when the bodgers tools and methods come out.

Other handy stuff:



This last one was a lifesaver when my VW T5.1 EGR cooler needed replacing:

Never seen them, either of them! Thanks for sharing. Might add a set to the armoury!

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
 
Something I bought a while back was a small kit of thread tap extractors - for that moment they snap. Used then only once for my old man. Makes light work of getting the bloody thing out.

KSTE Steel Broken Head Taps Remover Stripped Screw Tap Extractor Set (#C) https://amzn.eu/d/0662DicC

Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk
 
FWIW Rodin, I really hate Torx, they are supposedly better for surface area and hence torque to undo, but they seem to “cam out” and chew up far too easily especially if at a slight angle, plus it’s easy to accidentally fit a slightly smaller tool into a bolt that the one it should be, causing damage eg T27 bit into a T30 bolt. If you start to chew up a Torx, stop immediately, go no further, reach straight for the dedicated “damaged torx” removal kit.

Thanks for the link to the broken tap extractors, something else to add to my arsenal of “damage limitation weaponry”. :thumb2
 
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