Final drive drain plug metal bits

[gse]

Hi guys,

there are a lot of posts about this here, but just to make sure, since this is my first GS - is this amount of metal parts on magnetic fd drain plug something I should address immediatelly?

I changed the oil after 4500km - my first change so I cannot tell since when this is accumulating, however, previous owner said he changed all od the oils shortly before selling the bike to me.

Thanks a lot, I know it is a noob question!

 

[Deleted account 190928001]

I am new to oilheads but that looks a little concerning to me.

 

[theoneandonly]

change it again in 500kms , see what comes out .

 

[Slipperyeel]

change it again in 500kms , see what comes out .

+1 that's what I'd do.

But yes, never saw so much metal in an FD oil change that I've done.

But relax. Is a straightforward job on the 1150... so change the oil, ride for a bit then drain the oil again and look at it.

Oh, have you actually tried to feel for any play in the wheel? Get someone to stand on the rear brake while you do it - to eliminate it being the paralever bearing (which is probably shagged I bet).

I should credit Steptoe on here and the stickies in this section for the info above . Keep us posted.

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[Rugged Path]

Order another FD bearing for future or imminent use.
I had always found minute bits of iron filings on the magnet when drained. Had my spare for at least 10 yrs before it came in handy.


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[Slipperyeel]

Order another FD bearing for future or imminent use.
I had always found minute bits of iron filings on the magnet when drained. Had my spare for at least 10 yrs before it came in handy.


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Sludge on the drain plug is normal. But conspicuous metal flakes? I think that needs looking into... if it was mine I'd just get in there and change the bearing. But I understand it might seem a big job if you've never done it.

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[mspenz]

Very likely from the main crown bearing, you might even feel the roughness with the bike on the centre stand and then spin the wheel after either pushing back the brake pads or removing the calliper.
Relatively common but an easy fix

 

[Rugged Path]

When mine went, watched others doing it on YouTube then did it myself.
Took my time and it was a doddle to do.

You will need a 7mm Allen key which is not in the tool kit.


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[fizzer]

looks a bit like the cage in the main bearing is starting to disintegrate ,as said its an easy fix

 

[gse2]

Thanks a lot for such a quick and skilled responses, I really appreciate your help!

I removed the rear brake caliper and rotated the wheel, it felt smooth and sounded ok (I don't have anything to compare to, though).
Also tried to move the wheel on a left - right and up - down axis, both seemed to have a very little play, maybe a 1mm, but definitely there is a play.

I'm going to figure out if I could change the big bearing by myself and will get back after I changed the oil the second time (rode 200km since then, will probably wait for a 200 more to be sure).

Sorry for the second account, managed to lost the original one.

 

[mspenz]

When my last one went I was getting a gentle rhythmic thrum and most noticeable in top gear, started in Germany on my way home from Turkey but I managed to get home to Scotland almost 900km later...they can fail very suddenly and with little warning so best that you change it sooner than later. Youtube will help you out with the repair

 

[Rugged Path]

When my last one went I was getting a gentle rhythmic thrum and most noticeable in top gear, started in Germany on my way home from Turkey but I managed to get home to Scotland almost 900km later...they can fail very suddenly and with little warning so best that you change it sooner than later. Youtube will help you out with the repair

I had gone on a one hour ride before heading to the MOT station to have my 1150 tested. Felt or heard nothing. Parked up at the station, went inside and gave the guy the key while I prepared to wait.
I was called in to the test bed area and the mechanic pointed out oil seeping from the drive housing. On the centre stand, turned the wheel and we could hear a whining sound. So, MOT put on hold, rode the 3 miles back home slowly and proceeded to investigate.

Watched the YouTube video (need a 7mm key), ordered some new seals. Did the job myself and back on the road to the MOT station (passed) .


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[Slipperyeel]

When my last one went I was getting a gentle rhythmic thrum and most noticeable in top gear, started in Germany on my way home from Turkey but I managed to get home to Scotland almost 900km later...they can fail very suddenly and with little warning so best that you change it sooner than later. Youtube will help you out with the repair

. Agreed.

My last one went as I rolled off the train at Calais... I'd just ridden from London to Folkestone fully loaded with no hint of an issue...

Thankfully I had replacement seals and bearing packed... plus tools.



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[gse2]

Hi guys,

after a couple hundreds km the drain was clean. Waited another hundred and clean again.

Couldn't wrap my head around it so did some investigating and it turned out that previous owner did not change FD oil at all after importing the bike, so it could be tens of thousands of km since last change, there is no way to tell.
I am thinking I finnish this season and change the bearing preemptively in winter.

Thanks a lot again and wish you good weather!

 

[GS Addict]

The flakes are early signs of big bearing failure.
Keep a close eye on that magnet.
I would recommend you replace the bearing sooner than later.

 

[Slipperyeel]

The flakes are early signs of big bearing failure.
Keep a close eye on that magnet.
I would recommend you replace the bearing sooner than later.

I think you're right to suggest replacing asap.

That bearing that failed on me upon rolling off the train at Calais gave me no warning. I had bombed down to folkestone with zero signs something was amiss... but 50min later...



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[ELIMINATOR]

Steptoe changed mine today, the cage had gone like the earlier photnly lasted 100,700 miles.