Took off the final drive a few weeks ago to inspect shaft and replace rubber boot. Put it back on as I think it should go. Didn't feel any horisontal movement when I checked. But after riding a bit there seems to be a vibrasion coming from the back end thru the pegs. Checked yesterday and can deffo feel horisontal play when I move the wheel horisontal. Took the wheel of and it is deffo some play on th final deive unit where it goes into the swingarm, not much but still don't think it should be like that. Looking at the two bolts, the right hand one can not be tighter. But left hand (inside one) can probbaly be tighter by slacking of the lock nut and tightening it up. But how tight/far can I go?
Did I f&*& up and got it wrong?
Before doing anything below, check the paralever bearings, if they're notchy / rough, replace them.
Basic procedure for torquing the final drive adjustable pivot (left hand 'inside' one) if you don't have the BMW special tool):
Remove wheel, support final drive on blocks (I use a car axle stand).
Undo the torque arm from the final drive.
Remove locknut and adjustable pivot (you'll need a heat gun to soften the locktite - don't just crank it off - you can easily damage the threads in the swingarm).
Clean
all the locktite from the locknut, adjustable pivot and the swingarm threads - you'll need acetone (nail varnish remover), toothpicks and lots of patience. You need the pivot to be silky smooth as it screws into the swingarm - same for the locknut onto the pivot.
Put threadlock onto the adjustable pivot and insert it into the swingarm threads, torque it to 7Nm moving the FD gently up and down as you do in order to set the pivot properly. Some people slightly over torque it and then back off before retorquing to 7Nm - I do this. I also use standard blue loctite (243?) rather than the green coloured concrete specified - you'll be glad you did this if you ever need to dismantle it again. Clean any excess loctite from the exposed threads of the adjustable pivot.
Check the FD for smooth movement and lack of free play.
Leave it overnight for the loctite to go off.
Draw pencil lines onto the adjustable pivot and the swingarm so that you can see if it moves during the next stage.
Apply fresh loctite to the protruding adjustable pivot threads.
Refit and torque the locknut (105Nm)
Check the adjustable pivot hasn't moved (it shouldn't have, if you've done everything else right)
Check the final drive for smooth movement and (lack of) free play.
Draw another line on the locknut to use as an occasional check.
Refit the torque arm and wheel.
All the above is based on my doing this job on my 1100 - no idea what bike you have - if it's an 1150 the procedure is the same but the locknut torque may be different - you'll need to check this.
Search on here - there's loads of info about this job.
