Final drive. Oh...

dubster

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Came home from a 'spirited run' and spotted this...

It's defo from FD end rather than shaft,
opened bushing, only about 20ml oil escaped
About 1-2 mm play on wheel
Tried to check bearing from wheel side but seal was too tight, didn't want to damage it
70,000 miles


My feeling is to leave it be, top up, and see what happens... would appreciate second opinions :beerjug:

edit: will be in Nottingham for work this summer, good opportunity to visit @Mikeyboy perhaps...
 
It might just be the seal leaking but probably worth changing the bearing as well at that mileage, don't leave it to leak as it's going to get onto your brake disc and you might just find that out the wrong way :blast
I can't see on the photo but is it dripping onto the wheel?
 
Drain the FD and check for swarf or oil gone a grey colour. A little bit of gunge on the drain plug magnet is to be expected. Grey oil means the bearing is on the way out.
 
It might just be the seal leaking but probably worth changing the bearing as well at that mileage, don't leave it to leak as it's going to get onto your brake disc and you might just find that out the wrong way :blast
I can't see on the photo but is it dripping onto the wheel?

Bike's laid up for now, put the cardboard under to help find leak, wheel/disc/brakes happy.

Drain the FD and check for swarf or oil gone a grey colour. A little bit of gunge on the drain plug magnet is to be expected. Grey oil means the bearing is on the way out.

It's greyer than Lord of the Ringers
 
Bike's laid up for now, put the cardboard under to help find leak, wheel/disc/brakes happy.



It's greyer than Lord of the Ringers
change the FD large bearing and seal, its cheap peace of mind, it'll take around an hour to an hour and a half and will let you see exactly what the problem is.Oh and you might want to pull back the bellows on the FD to make sure the oil isn't from the shaft seal.
 
If it's lasted 70,000 miles pay to have a complete refurb by someone who really knows what they are doing, especially with regard to the shimming. I used Scriminger but Mikeyboy on here has a lot of folk who trust him.
 
Thats a good mileage, I have re done several myself and came to the conclusion that if the bearings are made to the same standard then I should not have to re shim. Seems to have worked well for the last 60K!
 
Thats a good mileage, I have re done several myself and came to the conclusion that if the bearings are made to the same standard then I should not have to re shim. Seems to have worked well for the last 60K!

One school of thought is that the factory didn't do a great job on the shimming origially which is why some last so much better than others. That does obviously suggest that Dubster has one of the better ones if it's the original bearing in there.
 
Around 70 or 75k seems to be about the norm before failure Dubster, mine went to 75, but happily it is quite a simple job to change the bearing and seal.
 
Thanks for the advice gents.. :beerjug:

@Aidan1150, bike didn't have a speedo cable for about 5k :augie so pretty much exactly same point of failure!

@two wheels @kennyc Tempted to give it a go myself, looks simple enough but I'd have to find the tools for pulling the bearings etc...

@Packer, what does the full refurb involve, presumably more than just a bearings/seals change? Very pricey?

Also, does anyone have an opinion on riding the bike if I need to take it for repair? Hopefully wouldn't expect a catastrophic failure of the drive at this point? Or would I be tempting fate?
 
Cheers. Yes, watched a bit of that earlier - I'm just thinking that I'm not sure if it's worth finding all them tools if (hopefully) I won't need them again soon
I did mine in a Hotel garage in Switzerland, all you need is a couple of chisels, a 7mm allen key and a hammer :D

Steptoe did a write up on the procedure :beer:


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