Final drive pivot bearing

[Northern jock]

My R100GS got a mot yesterday but he did advise that I change the final drive pivot bearing. Is that a difficult job to do?

He also advised that I buy the upgrade kit which has external grease nipples and is apparently easier to install.

There is a small amount of play so needs done. And I was about to head off on it, glad it was spotted.

 

[ThreeDawg]

Definitely get the bushings. I use the plastic 'Nushings' made in the States on my 1100, but the Motorworks metal ones will probably arrive quicker.

It's an easy job to do, althogh you do want a heat gun to warm up the pivots if they are Loctited in.

 

[DrFarkoff]

There is a small amount of play so needs done. And I was about to head off on it, glad it was spotted.

In reality you could probably adjust it out!

Airheads are SOooooooooooo Much easier on the paralever bearings

Nushings with the oilite Bronze would be my preferred but I do have the M'works ones in my "Escargot"

Do NOT Leave the grease nipples fitted the are easily broken off Especially when building the Bike up from bits

 

[Vulpine2]

I use the plastic 'Nushings' made in the States on my 1100, but the Motorworks metal ones will probably arrive quicker.

These looked like a good idea so I got a set for an r100r. I was aware of potential fitment issues with pre '90 paralevers and the specific fitting instructions. They may well be fine on some paralevers - but not my '92 bike.. Didn't fit, waste of money. Metal ones from MW were fine

 

[Northern jock]

These are the ones he recommended, seems to make sense

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/final-drive-pivot-bearing-upgrade-kit-tra11092-1.html

 

[oldenoughtoknowbetter]

Definitely get the bushings. I use the plastic 'Nushings' made in the States on my 1100, but the Motorworks metal ones will probably arrive quicker.

It's an easy job to do, althogh you do want a heat gun to warm up the pivots if they are Loctited in.

Nushings for me too. They've been in my 100GS for around ten years and are still going strong. No need to lubricate but just check the tension every couple of years or so. Tried the cup and grease nipple arrangement - these lasted around six months before terminally scoring. Also, a problem my mate had with these was that the rear of the cup fractured and blew off whilst pushing some grease through!
If you decide to go Nushings, you'll need an thicker pressure washer (on a 100GS) than the one provided with the Nushings. The guy in America was addressing this I believe, but DM me for details if you need them.

 

[Santa-2512]

Wait a couple of months then invite Mikeyboy

To a house warming, oh and while your here

 

[mikeyboy]

Wait a couple of months then invite Mikeyboy

To a house warming, oh and while your here

All things equal,
I’ll be operational @ November

 

[oldenoughtoknowbetter]

These looked like a good idea so I got a set for an r100r. I was aware of potential fitment issues with pre '90 paralevers and the specific fitting instructions. They may well be fine on some paralevers - but not my '92 bike.. Didn't fit, waste of money. Metal ones from MW were fine

They should have gone in OK. Mine's a '89 GS and I've also helped put them in a '94PD. It's best to pop them in the freezer overnight before fitting them, then it's essential that they're pushed into the FD absolutely squarely. If not, they'll twist and scar and then you would have problems.
Reckon mine have done around 40,000 miles (and counting). They're made of molybdenum impregnated nylon for this sort of application, so never need to be lubricated. I never give them a thought except when I remove the rear wheel for something, I'll pop off the rear shock and ensure that their tightness is still within tolerance. But you do need a thicker pressure washer (on the 80/100GS specifically) on the adjustment side of the swing arm, than the ones supplied. Those ones will "dish" when you try tighten up to spec.
Get them right and you'll have a rear end as firm as Kylie's!