Quick question torque value final drive pivot nut and bolt

[mpgscott]

I’m just servicing the GS today, dropped the final drive and just want to check as the Haynes manual is clear as mud to me regarding the naming on the nut and bolt that we remove to allow the FD to swing down.

Am I reading it correctly that it’s 42nm torque on the nut and bolt?

Thanks as always.
Mark

 

[mpgscott]

I’ve now watched a few videos, it’s 42nm so happy days..

 

[47Steve]

I am doing mine at the moment. When I drained the Diff oil it was a bit greyish / milky in colour. What colour was yours?

TA Steve

 

[mpgscott]

I am doing mine at the moment. When I drained the Diff oil it was a bit greyish / milky in colour. What colour was yours?

TA Steve

Mine was dark brown in colour. Same as it normally is as I’ve done it a few times over the years. Just greasing splines less often.

Might be yours hasn’t been done in a while or maybe some moisture in yours? Just a thought I’m sure someone more versed will be along with thoughts soon.

Just be sure there isn’t any play in the final drive. Ideally with wheel on hands 6 and 12 try move. Then again 3 and 9 and see nothing. I had a bike once and you would be able to tell.

Even if it is #mikeyboy is a star and did a great job rebuilding mine.

 

[47Steve]

I've had the final drive oil seal replaced last year as it was leaking and effected the rear disc/ brake. I have now found similar issues again, with the rear disc / brake not working effective and have an oily sediment on it.

I have therefore drained it and h it came out like a milky colour. I am in the process of cleaning everything down / flushing it out and put new oil in. The last flush, the oil came out more brown colour but was not clear. Any ideas if this is normal?

TA Steve

 

[Slipperyeel]

The milky has to be moisture. I change mine twice a year without fail. I have found that the Castrol goes milky, the Comma oil doesn't

I've actually just changed all the fluids on my GS. Despite all the horrendous rain I went through last November/December to Italy and back, the shaft and input were all clean, only the smallest moisture ingress in the Staburags around the input splines.

On which note I should emphasise the use of Staburags NBU 30. I'm unaware of any alternatives (I suspect there are) but silicone grease makes a total mess and not actually sure it works and white lithium grease is a pile of crap as it just dries out and cracks.