Final Drive Oil Leak? 1150 GS Adv

anglian001

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Hi all!, i recently started to see some oil coming out of the final drive on my 1150 gs adv, she has only covered 20,000 so i am wondering why it has started to leak now?, i am planning a big trip in the summer and i hope i don’t have other problems!
Also has anyone had the same problem and how much of a job is it to fix?, any advice or experience would be gratefully received!
Oh and here are some pics!

Drive 1.JPG

Drive 2.JPG
 
Given that you are in that there London your best option by far is to book it in with Steptoe the GS guru. He is a long time member of this forum and you can find his contact details here.

HTH
 
Thank you Aiden :D

Anyway, the question...... Nice simple answer.
You have either a gearbox output seal or final drive input seal leaking.
 
ok cool, thanks for your replies, i think steptoe is the best way to go, i shall ring in the morning!
Just a bit worried about other stuff failing as well, she has only done 20,000 miles and i have had her about 3 months, already had to replace a starter motor, rear shock and now this!
Is this normal? The bike is in great knick but why are these things failing?
 
ok cool, thanks for your replies, i think steptoe is the best way to go, i shall ring in the morning!
Just a bit worried about other stuff failing as well, she has only done 20,000 miles and i have had her about 3 months, already had to replace a starter motor, rear shock and now this!
Is this normal? The bike is in great knick but why are these things failing?

Obviously fu..d, I'll give you £20 and take it away.
 
ok cool, thanks for your replies, i think steptoe is the best way to go, i shall ring in the morning!
Just a bit worried about other stuff failing as well, she has only done 20,000 miles and i have had her about 3 months, already had to replace a starter motor, rear shock and now this!
Is this normal? The bike is in great knick but why are these things failing?

Your bike must be at least 6 years old so it wouldn't be unusual for seals to perish in that time, especially with such low miles as they can dry out if no lube circulates.

FWIW, my 1150 had to have a couple of seals replaced at about 5 years and 30,000 miles.

If the previous owner(s) used the bike for lots of short trips that might explain the starter motor packing up.

On the other hand, the bike might have done a few more miles than are showing. Did you have any evidence to back up the mileage?
 
Went to see Steptoe and what a jolly nice chap!, It turned out not to be the FD Seal in the end, just a build up of water and oil that must of just come out, as the cable tie around the rubber covering was loose!
 
Went to see Steptoe and what a jolly nice chap!, It turned out not to be the FD Seal in the end, just a build up of water and oil that must of just come out, as the cable tie around the rubber covering was loose!

Bargaintastic :thumb2

Mine had the starter, battery and coil packs all replaced at just over 22,000 on an 1150 of similar age within 3 months of me buying it but nothing else since with an extra 10,000 miles added so not all bad ;)
 
Hi all, my input seal has gone. Is this the correct tool to remove that nut?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid=8247530530913109043

R1150 GSA 50000 miles

Cheers,:beerjug:
Yes it is the right tool. I have one and it's working fine.
There is no special problems when doing this job.
You only need a 36 mm socket ( long ) and the KD 2467 Tool.

You have to heat the pinion gear nut ( 36 mm ) to 120 degrees C ( 248 degrees F ) to open it.
Then you have to heat the final drive unit neck to 120 degrees C ( 248 degrees F ) to remove the threaded ring with the KD tool 2467.

Check the position and direction of the shaft bearing's outer race when taking it apart.
If it falls out.

Then change the seal and put the FD together.

Torques
Threades ring 118 Nm
Pinion gear nut 200 Nm

It is best to fix the FD back to the wheel when opening the nuts. You don't have the special BMW fixture for it anyway.


Pekka
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Should try a search - From a previous post ..............

Ok, leaking rear input seal on your bevel drive.

If your doing this job, you know enough to be able to take off the rear bevel .

Here's the seal thats leaking. it's hidden behind the securing nut, you can just see it



As well as replacing the seal, you'll also need the inner seal ring.
This can have a groove worn on it's surface, as it spins inside the seal at shaft speed. Only a couple of pounds, so makes sense to replace it regardless while your doing the job.

Here's the ring from the leaking bevel.



And here's a new ring.



Put the bevel in a vice. I screw in two old wheel studs in the output wheel flange, and position the bevel in such a way that they'll stop the internals rotating as i undo the securing nut on the input shaft.

You'll need a deep 36mm socket to undo the input bevel securing nut. And it's tight - 200 nm.

I have a big feck-off cordless electric impact gun. Max Torque 400 Ib ft :eek:



Undo the nut - bang whizz.


Now you have to undo the securing ring. It'll need a special tool.
I made my own, and then welded a large nut on the end of the tube because this ring is also done up tight - 160 nm. It's not made to look pretty, it has a job to do.





This is inserted inside, impact gun attached , bang whizz, and it's off. You can use some heat on it when removing the nut and ring if you need to. .



You should now have the nut, seal ring, and securing ring. The seal is in the securing ring. All the old items in the picture below.



New seal and ring



Remove the old seal from the securing ring. You'll notice a lip on the securing ring, the seal only goes in one way, from the rear.

The front of the ring



The rear of the ring.



Now carefully insert the seal into the rear. Picture view looking at the rear.



And from the front.



Now carefully screw the ring back into the bevel unit. Torque setting 160 NM



And then slide the ring over the input shaft and into the seal. The picture shows the ring after it's been pushed into the seal

.

And then screw the input bevel nut back on - torque200 Nm.


And it should look like this when it's finished :D
Check it all turns by hand before replacing the bevel back on the bike.

 
There you are the best tool for the job, send it to steptoe won't cost a lot to post it and it'll be done and work.
Dave gs
 
Thanks a lot guys, all this info and pictures will be a great help.

Davegs, I would send it to Steptoe, but I would like to learn to do it myself. If it all goes pear shaped then thats what I will do.

Thanks again
 


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