Final drive oil leek follow up.

[Jay12329]

Well following on from;
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161991
My bike arrived back today and I've taken the back end apart tonight and found this...

Next question, anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the front housing cover in place? My 7mm hex bit seams too small, and 8mm is too big, BMW dont use imperial bolts do they
And what's the best way to check the rest of the inner workings for damage?
ta

J

 

[ELIMINATOR]

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159180

 

[Steptoe]

Next question, anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the front housing cover in place? J

7mm. ...

 

[ELIMINATOR]

Must have been some fart, Steppers!

 

[Jay12329]

7mm. ...

Ta Just read that somewhere else. Seams to be the only size halfrauds dont include in the 10 billion piece tool box we have.
J

 

[Jay12329]

One last question and I promise I'll shut up about this.
I've whipped off the final drive hub after taking out the 7mm allan bolts. I took it to my dealer for the baring replacement, i've had a call today and they would like the rest of the bevel box so they can re-shim the unit.
Is this necessary as I don't own a heat gun so getting the whole box off isn't that simple!
Ta
J

 

[ebbo]

One last question and I promise I'll shut up about this.
I've whipped off the final drive hub after taking out the 7mm allan bolts. I took it to my dealer for the baring replacement, i've had a call today and they would like the rest of the bevel box so they can re-shim the unit.
Is this necessary as I don't own a heat gun so getting the whole box off isn't that simple!
Ta
J

Some would say it doesn't need shimming and if I was stuck somewhere with a failed FD I agree, but personally I'd get it shimmed correctly.

See what other think

 

[Packer]

I bought a bearing puller and replaced my own at ~26,000 miles using the original shims.

Now close to 48,000 miles and still going strong.

Of course it will fail again tomorrow after me writing that.

 

[Timolgra]

You can easily remove the bearing with a pair of tyre levers.
The only reason I can think of for re shimming is if the new bearing was a different depth, very unlikely.

 

[Red Rock]

It's a bit long, but this ADVRider video shows an FD rebuild for a K series, - pretty much the same on a R I'd imagine:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163472

 

[ebbo]

It's a bit long, but this ADVRider video shows an FD rebuild for a K series, - pretty much the same on a R I'd imagine:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163472

Loosely, the process described in the video is:

Fit new bearing to crown wheel and clean everything up.

Put crown gear back in the FD, lube the outside edge of the new bearing with light oil (3in1?).

Warm up the outer cover in the oven and fit to the FD with say 3 bolts. With no shims or oil seal.

While the cover is hot, the crown gear should be free to move laterally in the case and you can measure that movement with a dial gauge suitably mounted (perhaps with a metal arm to a brake caliper mount).

Basically, you push the crown gear fully in, zero the gauge, pull crown gear out and take the measurement from dial gauge, repeat a few times to get a consistent measurement.

Use the measurement to select and fit correct shims.


The guy in the video did the work on a bench, but I don’t see why it can’t be done just as well on the bike.