Final drive play , how much is too much?

[chrisshrops]

Hi folks the wheels are now on my bike ,the rear wheel has a small amount of play if you have your hands at 3and 9 o'clock and push and pull .If the bike had rear wheel bearings I would change them . It's a 94 mono Now how much is too much and do you need too ship it too a dealers too get it fixed ? This is what you get ,I guess when you rebuild a buggerd old bike

 

[ianboydsnr]

Hi folks the wheels are now on my bike ,the rear wheel has a small amount of play if you have your hands at 3and 9 o'clock and push and pull .If the bike had rear wheel bearings I would change them . It's a 94 mono Now how much is too much and do you need too ship it too a dealers too get it fixed ? This is what you get ,I guess when you rebuild a buggerd old bike

I asked this and apparently it's normal to have some play at the rim, mine has it, and has recently done a 800 mile day, it's not a great deal of play, so if yours is the same, then just monitor it and leave it well alone!

 

[chrisshrops]

Thanks buddy that sounds good too me

 

[Kenny]

Are you sure it isn't the swingarm bearings that are goosed? Is the same play ther at 12 and 6 o'clock ?

 

[chrisshrops]

Thanks Kenny,I have just replaced them I will double check the torque on swinging arm and see what I find

 

[chrisshrops]

Cheers kenny that sorted that out

 

[Paul Rochdale]

No need to torque swinging arm bearings. I simply tighten the pins up until all play has gone AND NO MORE, and I find that sufficient. As for wheel bearings, the usual test is the 12 o'clock-6 o'clock one. I've just had the wheel bearings replaced on my 1989 R100GS-PD by Jim Cray and I'm glad I didn't attempt it myself. The very large single bearing needed changing as this is the usual one to fail, however the end taper roller bearing was also worn (unusual) and as BMW didn't see fit to proved a recess or lip in the blind hole, Jim had to resort to a line of weld to shock the bearing out, followed by half an hour with a hot air gun to get the replacement back in. All hunky dory now but at a price!

 

[Bendy toy]

Mikey Boy will rebuild FDs by mail order. Send yours over by Senditnow and he will have it done and back in no time.
IMO it's always wise to check all internal bearings when the wheel bearing is replaced. Some models have needle rollers inside that struggle to cope.

There is a mod for 1150 FDs where the main wheel bearing is replaced with an angular contact ball bearing. It might work on 1100s.


Sent from a widget that can't spell.

 

[Beemerboff]

As previous posters have pointed out there are two types of mono final drives, both have the large 120x80 mm deep grooveC3 bearing on the wheel side side, but on the other side there is either a needle roller or a taper roller bearing.

The one with the needle roller has a removable cap on the needle roller side, the acceptable end float in the shaft is 0 to 2 thou, and at two thou there is noticeable play at the wheel rim. But mine felt like it had more than 2 thou but it didnt change much in well over 100,000 km.

The type with the taper roller does not have the cap on the taper roller side, and the taper roller bearing should be preloaded 2 thou, so you should have very little play at the rim.
But that means that the large wheel side bearing is preloaded 2 thou as well, and some bodgers take this as a license to rebuild the needle roller type with a bit preload too, probably because they dont have the proper equipment to get it right.
And they can get away with it because with modern oils the deep groove ball bearing will last a reasonable time with preload - at one time the factory was building oilhead drives, which have the same wheel bearing, with 5 to 8 thou preload and some made it out to 20,000 km, although some didnt make 2000 km.

 

[FatAl]

I checked my rear wheel at ten past six, it seemed ok. I can't see the point in checking it six hourly intervals as I will be in bed at 12 'o' clock.

 

[fayeslane]

Risky