Final drive protector removal.

Scotriders

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Anyone know how to remove this type of final drive protector?
Turning the inner bolt is just making this spin.
Can't see any obvious fixings.
Really need fd off to give it a respray.

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It's OK I got it.
The plastic bit unscrewed from the alloy base, just needed persuasion with a large pair of grips with some rubber to stop them marking the plastic.

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Just roll up a piece flexible plastic sheet into a tube, then slide into the slight gap around the plastic disc and by releasing pressure on the sides and gently pulling it should come away.
 
So got the cover off and then proceeded to shear off the head of the bolt holding the rest of it in.

Drilled away at the broken stud half, through the alloy and eventually managed to get the rest off it out.

All good?

Now to get the pivot bolt out, Haynes manual says two breaker bars and bit of brute force should do the trick.
T55 Torx head one side, big socket on the other, no way this is gonna shear off.

Very stiff so scooshed in some penetrating oil, still very stiff so got the blow torch on it (bit of heat should do the trick....

Nope, managed about a turn and a half and it's stuck fast. Definitely unscrewed a turn and a half as the pivot bolt/sleeve are moving about 3-4mm side to side. Tried to srcew it back on a bit but stuck solid.

Hooked up my impact air gun to the compressor but even that won't budge it.

Losing the will to live....

Have stuck a grommet in the end of the pivot sleeve and sprayed some release oil in it, gonna let it soak over night and try again in the morning.

If all else fails my next course of action will be to drill the head off the bolt and chap the sleeve out the other side.

Any tips or advise?

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Any locktite been used here?.
Not by me but it was dealer serviced for the first 84,000 miles. Dunno if they would have ever had it off?

But you'd think heat would soften any locktite that may have been there from factory, no?

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Using a impact gun on this is not the answer as the bolt has already come loose the torsion in that length of bolt will act as a torque limiter.
It sounds like the thread has picked up and if it will not come loose with a socket on a power bar one end and a quality T55 on a good long power bar the other.
I would be tempted to drill a hole through the head to weaken the bolt so the head will shear off then drift it through.
Obviously you will need to heat the nut to 100 degrees in case the lock tight is causing a problem but I understand that you have already done this.
 
You've probably done this, but do you think you got it hot enough? Has to get pretty hot, about 110-120°...

Sounds like a right pain though. Good suggestion from Mistacat...

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Got it drilled out to 10mm but it appears to be the only bolt on the bike I've tried removing which doesn't want to shear the head off.
Gonna need to go for a 12mm and drill the head off.

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I'm happy to nip down and set a match to it, just let me know when you'll both be out and it'll be sorted, no one will ever need to know what happened. ;)
 
I'm happy to nip down and set a match to it, just let me know when you'll both be out and it'll be sorted, no one will ever need to know what happened. ;)
Thanks for the offer but job done.
And it was actually easier to drill out than a couple of M6 bolts I've sheared on it so far.


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Most definitely was the locktite, once out and in the vice I got the blowtorch on it and unscrewed no problem.
Guess the heat wasn't getting right into the locktite when in situ.
Oh well only need a new pivot bolt as the sleeve is fine.
a8a82e6bcc14a6f609ad46f469ea94a5.jpg


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Bolt

Now you'll find out that the bolt is a non-standard pitch.... BMW or a specialist fixings company..

Been there done that....

Roger
 
Now you'll find out that the bolt is a non-standard pitch.... BMW or a specialist fixings company..

Been there done that....

Roger
Probably, I'll just order the BMW one it's only about £12.

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