Final Drive Taper Bearing - Opinions please?

fatnfast

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With 4 weeks to go untill my trip, I thought I would give the 1150's final drive the once over. I checked the Big Bearing, it looked good, but as it was apart I swapped it for one of my spares as I had noticed a few tiny, tiny metal flakes in the otherwise clear oil.
On checking the taper bearing there is no pitting or gouges, but it has a somewhat less than shiney appearance. The outer race looks fine, no pits etc.
So, looking at the picture below, does it look good to you?
The FD has no play at all, turns smoothly etc but.....what do you think?
The bike has done 30,000 miles.
bearing.jpg
 
That bearing looks OK to me, but having gone so far into a strip, and the cost of a bearing may as well replace it. :rob
 
Thanks for taking time to reply guys. This is one of those jobs that would be beyond me, as I understand I would be into the realms 'reshiming' the FD.
As the bearing shows no sign of pitting, I think I am going to live with it, and if it gets to half your mileage Ugly Cow, I would be very happy :bow.
Of course, if it fails I will blame you ;).
I am more than able to change it, but am less than able to check shimming/backlash unfortunately.
As my 1150 is a keeper, and considering this is one of its weak points, maybe after the trip I might entrust the FD to Scrimmingers just for the peace of mind :).
And to think, I was looking at chopping it in for a Yam Fazer Thousand earlier today :eek:
 
Bearing

You shouldent need to re shim as bearings are precision components.
 
You shouldent need to re shim as bearings are precision components.

I agree bearings are made to fine tolorances but you should always check the shimming, how do you know it was done right when first assembled?
 
I hear what you are saying Dave, surely all quality bearings will be near as dam'it identical in dimensions, and a simple one for one swap should not affect anything :confused:
But I guess thats the flipside of these forums, you start reading how essential it is to set up correctly and if you dont its gonna fail on you at the most inopertune time. I'm no expert on bearing wear, and I, like many on here I suspect, look for reassurance that all is well (or not). Logic says its the big bearing that takes the brunt of load etc, and the wear I can see is nothing to be worried about and I should just bolt it up and crack on with riding.
 
If a FD bearing fails after a very low mileage, I would suspect incorrect shimming at the factory, and a reshim when fitting a new bearing may be appropriate.

If a FD bearing 'goes the distance' before failing (30,000 miles+ ??? - we all know it's a fundamentally flawed design!) then replace the bearing and leave the shim alone.

All IMHO, of course! :)
 
taper roller bearings are designed to take a side load, the big bearing is not.(ball bearing).This is why it will fail eventualy. Dont worry it will be fine and if not, think of the abuse I will get:aidan
 
Thanks Ugly,
The plan now is to just crack on and ride it. Its all back together, and as you say, I can blame you :thumb.
On my return from the trip I might, out of curiosity, have another peek at the taper bearing. Its a simple job just to look. I'm sure Steptoe once posted a pic of an extreamly toasted taper bearing on the crown wheel (cant find it now).
I'm no bearing expert obviously, but I always thought tapers were paired up in these sort of applications?
I guess my concern was the tiny silver flakes that were present on the magnetic plug, and as the big bearing is, and has always has been good, I assumed the taper bearing was the culprit. However, I guess everthing wears over time, and that little magnet has just been doing its job.
Thanks again folks :).
 


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