Finding Neutral
- Thread starter Caesi
- Start date
Same here. 14 plate GSA. A little bit better now with a few miles on the clock circa 6000.
Same here, not helped by enduro boots
GS_or_bust
Registered user
I may sound like a broken record but there is no need to use neutral, leave it in first gear. It stops the bike rolling off the sidestand as an additional benefit.
When you are in first, and you hook your toe under the shift lever, just as you are about to go for neutral, give the gas a little blip, probably to about half your rev range. Just after it's peaked at that half rev range and starts to fall back down ...... snick it into neutral.
All your doing is spinning up the drive system (even though your clutch is in). It will help free up your clutch plates and help you find neutral. Most riders with knackered enduro / off road bikes would know this drill well - often for them this is the only way to find neutral.
All your doing is spinning up the drive system (even though your clutch is in). It will help free up your clutch plates and help you find neutral. Most riders with knackered enduro / off road bikes would know this drill well - often for them this is the only way to find neutral.
I was having similar problems especially with enduro type boots bought a Wunderlich fully adjustable gear lever set it right for the boots I wear at least 50% better well worth the money
I'm told that a software update will fix it, should find out when I get mine back on Saturday......
Apparently so, I asked if they could take a look at the issue and possibly adjust clutch?gearbox, he said thats a known issue and the latest software update will fix it.....
Are you a cyborg? 
Wrong !
You should select neutral and release the clutch lever when stopped so if another vehicle hits you from behind you don't release the clutch potentially sending you into another stream of traffic. Its also kinder to your bike.
Unless you know better than the IAM & RoSPA
I've had 2 LC GS and a GSA and all 3 did exactly the same thing. Up down up down between 1st and 2nd gear and a gentle touch down from 2nd finds neutral. If I ride into central London and given the light clutch pull I'll leave it in gear at short stops but dance on the pedal to find neutral for a long stop.
Mine does the same sometimes, mostly goes into neutral from 1st but sometimes pops past into 2nd and needs a gentle tap back down again to neutral - nothing to worry about. Not sure how software update can affect finding neutral unless the change gives the engine a little blip when changing gears at a standstill?????.
Ozz
Registered user
14 plate GS with 10000miles and I too have this issue. At the lights, try for neutral and find 2nd, tap it down and into neutral. Its the only way that I can get neutral, and its become second nature now.
Reggie P
Guest
The benefit of doing this (imho) , if you have an ocassional glance in your mirror, is that if a vehicle is going to rear-end you. You can promptly snick forwards into a gap alongside the vehicle in front of you. No hunting for 1st in an "oh-shit" moment.
(edited to say , after reading ymfb's post .... It might not be approved ! But suits me !
What do other experienced riders think ? Giles?)
Mawnanian
Registered user
When I was a lad I had a Royal Enfieid Constellation built in 1959 which had a second lever on the gearbox which could be kicked down with your heel and would select neutral from any gear. It worked and I used it.
I also recall that in the 70's Suzuki had a system whereby if the bike was stationary you could not change directly between first and second but I've no idea how reliable it was.
I would have thought that as just about everything else on modern bikes can be controlled and adjusted electronically a neutral selector would not be too difficult to design.
I also recall that in the 70's Suzuki had a system whereby if the bike was stationary you could not change directly between first and second but I've no idea how reliable it was.
I would have thought that as just about everything else on modern bikes can be controlled and adjusted electronically a neutral selector would not be too difficult to design.
I don't sit at a red light in gear. IAM and RoSPA may not like the idea of selecting neutral before you've actually stopped, but actually I do that a lot .... those last few feet of travel I'm normally in neutral and putting my right foot on the floor.
I do agree that there is a place for being aware of what's happening behind you when you're the last in the queue at the lights. I try not to stop bang in the middle of somebodies number plate, but rather in their off side wheel track so I have a natural escape route if I need it. In thirty years I've never been rear ended, but I guess I do subconsciously plan for it. (One of the reasons why many bikers think the hendon Shuffle is pants and that they'd rather sit covering their gear lever). So for me it's neutral, but left foot ready to go and half an eye in mirrors looking for the next bloke to join the queue.
On fast roads (motorways / dual carriageways) where there's sporadic stationary traffic, the risk of a small pile up is actually quite high. I would say that daily, there is a three car shunt on the approach to the dartford river crossing. It's probably more relevant to car driving (a bike is going to go for the gap..) but I very much think about being shunted in those motorway scenarios. I always leave a good twenty yards or so between me and the car in front until I see the bod behind me reacting and slowing down.
Reggie P
Guest
Thanks for the reply Giles ! I'm taking the advice (there are argumentative buggers on this site ! not sure everyone will....)
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