First ride out experience with no baffle!

Bikerbaz78

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Hey Guy's,

Hope you all had a good christmas etc... :beer:

After going stir crazy from being iced in since picking up my new GS1150 on the 19th I'm please to say today I went for my first "pleasure ride" today! :D I took her for a quick blast across the top of the black mountains to get a feel for how these GS's perform around town and round corners. Going backwards slightly the good part was my brother pointed out the fact the Remus Evolution silencer still had the baffle fitted... As you would expect it got removed with digust having not long done my first 270 miles to bring it home!
Anyway, so my first outing and with the baffle removed... (Now keep in mind i've ridden sports bike for 14 years) WOW :D grin factor doubled!!! Ok im not announcing I have a GS that produces 100BHP because I removed the baffle BUT it has really released the bottom end pick-up and predictably gives off quite a GROWL from 3.5k rpm and upwards. I couldnt help myself but to open the gas and stomp through second, third and fourth with the tap wide open :eek: It sounded like a single pot paris dakar bike; WHAT AMAZING FUN!!! I laughed my arse off all the way home rolling on the gas at every given opportunity and my grin could have been attached to the throttle cable :D I would guess that reducing the back pressure has released low down torque and hence the more noticable pick-up? It also pulls round the rev counter faster too!

Once thing I did notice and I dont know if this is just a GS trait or cause for concern... When I snap the gas open for a few seconds then close it again I get a lovely BANG out of the exhaust which tells me it over fueled. Now I'm guessing (again) that this caused the requirement for the twin spark model, ensuring all the mixture is burnt??? I'm hoping one of you guys will put me straight? :thumb

Also... has anyone heard if the front brake disks are vunerable to warping? When I pull up to a stop using only the front brake I notice that I cannot regulate the pressure and just before the bike completely stops it feels like the brakes are pulsing. This is not an ABS model so I know that not the issue so it just leaves me with the idea of warped disks? I did a rough test and if they are warped its very minimal despite being noticable in operation. I need to use DTI to check them properly.

All thoughts welcome, thanks guys, Baz :beerjug:
 
Once thing I did notice and I dont kmow if this is just a GS trait or causer for concern... When I snap the gas open for a few seconds then close it again I get a lovely BANG out of the exhaust which tells me it over fueled. Now I'm guessing (again) that this was what launched the requirement for the twin spark model??? I'm hoping one of you guys will put me straight? :thumb

They all do that :)
 
They all do that :)

Crikey mate... You replied before I sorted my crappy typing errors out :)

Thanks for that... :thumb I remember riding my CBR400RR when I was 18 and discovering that if I rolled down a high street, knocked off the kill switch then switched back on again it instantly burnt all the fuel it sucked in and sounded like a small explosion taking place... My local Honda dealer told me how much of a dick i was and went into how much that burns the valve seat :eek Dont wana be recking me new beemer now do we!!!
 
you should play about with the cat code plug. i did midrange went wide.
 
+ 1 to that :thumb

Cheers guys, will have a search on where to find the said plug :thumb I have stumbled across talk of this plug before and know it's to alter the fuel map to compensate for different fuel grades. I would pressume it is some where near the ECU?

No thoughts on the potential brake issue?
 
The plug is in the fuse box. Do a search for "Steptoe Cat Code" grab a cuppa and sit down for a while.

There is a "plug" avail that does low quality fuel (down to 91 RON and lower) and other plugs that code the bike for running on Cat+Remus, NoCat+Remus etc but these are just metal jumpers. Easy to do with some wire and a set of space connectors.

As for the breaks not sure. not heard of many 1150s warping the discs mostly 1200s that I've heard of.

Bear in mind the breaks on the 1150 do stop it quickly even for a heavy brute of a bike and everything on these can be best described as agricultural so won't be as smooth as the latest plastic fantastic.
 
The plug is in the fuse box. Do a search for "Steptoe Cat Code" grab a cuppa and sit down for a while.

There is a "plug" avail that does low quality fuel (down to 91 RON and lower) and other plugs that code the bike for running on Cat+Remus, NoCat+Remus etc but these are just metal jumpers. Easy to do with some wire and a set of space connectors.

As for the breaks not sure. not heard of many 1150s warping the discs mostly 1200s that I've heard of.

Bear in mind the breaks on the 1150 do stop it quickly even for a heavy brute of a bike and everything on these can be best described as agricultural so won't be as smooth as the latest plastic fantastic.

You are a gem!!! Since my last post I have been searching for this on the forum and google...to no avail? :confused: A few posts indicate this fuel map option is only on the GSA and not the GS?

Hahahaha alot of people have described the GS as "Agricultural"... I rode a GS for the first time just after I paid for it... I love it to bits already and compared to the Ducati 900SS peice of poo I once owned the GS is smooth as silk! :thumb2 In fact the gearbox on my GS changes smoother than some of the pocket rockets i've owned too! The brakes on my GS are great but I have never had this pulsing feeling before? By nature I ride only using my front brake hence I notice the difference with this one... I'm already starting to compensate by slowing on the front brake and finishing the stop witht he rear brake... DTI required me thinks... No other options to prove the point?

Right... I'm equipped with a beer and off to read this post in depth, thanks again, :thumb
 
You are a gem!!! Since my last post I have been searching for this on the forum and google...to no avail? :confused: A few posts indicate this fuel map option is only on the GSA and not the GS?

The fuel map is on both the GS / GSA.

The only difference between the two is larger fuel tank, longer suspension travel (20mm more) and some had a lower first gear for the GSA. Some of the GS bike have a taller 6th gear so more MPG on the motorway.

Other than that they are identical other than some styling changes (e.g. beak extender, engine bars, single seat) but the engine and guts are the same beast.

So the fuel plug will work on both.

Richard
 
Now you've discovered ...

... the free breathing qualities of your baffle-less end can, why not try it without ? Do another search on here for 'stubby' and find out why a lot of discerning tossers don't have an end can at all :augie
 
... the free breathing qualities of your baffle-less end can, why not try it without ? Do another search on here for 'stubby' and find out why a lot of discerning tossers don't have an end can at all :augie

Assuming the bike still has a CAT fitted! I would think a stubby and Y piece would attract all the wrong type of attention
 
Anyway, so my first outing and with the baffle removed... (Now keep in mind i've ridden sports bike for 14 years) WOW :D grin factor doubled!!! :

If you do any serious mileage you'll soon get fed up with the tiring noise. :D
 
Cheers Guy's,

K&N, Remus Revolution with no baffle and a Y-Piece fitted....

You guys pointed me to Steptoes old posts regarding the dreaded cat code subject... Since then I did more research and now have a detailed drawing of the cat code descriptions for each map and the corresponding jumper connections.

This morning I discovered the cat code "relay" has already been removed so I jumpered for stage three tuning. Finally at 7pm tonight i got the chance and checked the temperature (a mere 1 degree C) and took it out for a spin... WOW All my power from mid and top end has been moved to the bottom of the rev range and I dont have to give it a fist full for it to take off any more!!! :D It's lost that hollow super-moto exhaust note and picked up more of a low down growl. For the first time I have been able to use sixth ('E') on hte local roads! 55mph at 2600rpm open the gas and it still pulls! When I picked it up I remember having to hit at least 65-70 on the motorway before it would hold onto 6th.

Various people have detailed the fact their fuel economy went out the window after changing the cat code. Well I know for sure im getting more pull and opening the throttle less to achieve it. So other than me gunning it for more grin factor im expecting better MPG :thumb

If anyone still are not clear on what jumpers do what then let me know and I will post the diagram I found.

Steptoe, quite clearly you are the man when it comes to technical detailed answers to questions. After reading that cat code thread I really felt for you and couldnt agree more with your comments. You posted info to help people and answer questions and some of them wanted your assurance that THEIR actions were not gona screw the bike up!?!?!? :confused: I think some people need to realise that you help because you like to NOT because you MUST!!! Anyway I know its :topic but... just couldnt help comment on such shocking words from some people :eek

Today I took it down the lane outside my house that has mud, gravel slight slope on corners with mud and gulleys down the middle... TOURANCE TYRES ARE NOT MADE FOR THIS :blast it was like riding on water (I imagine?)

:beerjug:
 
i got about 220 miles on mine gsa 30l tank £30 to fill up..not as good as my 1100 £24 to fill up 250 miles most of the time but ha life sucks sometime:D
 
Since then I did more research and now have a detailed drawing of the cat code descriptions for each map and the corresponding jumper connections.

I doubt it - no-one else has ever managed to find one. What you almost certainly have is a copy of the jumper settings that relate to a BBPower (aftermarket) chip. They are meaningless with the standard chip.

This morning I discovered the cat code "relay" has already been removed

Not all bikes were fitted with one - not all needed one.

so I jumpered for stage three tuning.

No you didn't ;) You jumpered for what would have been stage 3 tuning if you had a BBPower chip fitted.

Sorry to burst your bubble but this just illustrates that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. There is no "stage 3 map" in the standard chip. Although you probably won't do any harm with whatever CCP setting you've used it's safer to stick with ones that people understand, in which case Steptoe's link is a safe bet as is any other that replicates the connection in any of the factory CCPs that were available.

If anyone still are not clear on what jumpers do what then let me know and I will post the diagram I found.

Please, no.......
 
Sproggy... All good comments mate and you were right about the BBpower chip... However my understanding was slightly different (maybe not correct... but different!)

The details for the BBpower chip 'indicated' that the chip simply issues any of the given jumpers settings that selects one of the available maps preprogrammed in the motronic ECU? So the chip is only an automatic selection device opposed to holding any new maps??? I would love to get some BMW info on this!

The jumper setting I used was from the picture that Steptoe posted which was also from the BBpower chip blog! Regardless of any amount of knowledge I followed the forum recommendation that also happened to echo the BBpower documentation. None the less it had a positive affect on the bikes air fuel ratio and ignition timing.

If no one has the "proper documentation" then surely the next closet thing that anyone CAN find has to give us the best "indication"?

How did you decide your CAT CODE set-up?

A good thread mate...this is how we all learn :thumb
 
The details for the BBpower chip 'indicated' that the chip simply issues any of the given jumpers settings that selects one of the available maps preprogrammed in the motronic ECU? So the chip is only an automatic selection device opposed to holding any new maps??? I would love to get some BMW info on this!

The different maps are held on the chip itself, not elsewhere in the ECU. That's the whole point of 'chipping' a vehicle - you change the main chip in the ECU to allow one or more (depending upon the vehicle) different fuelling/ignition maps to be used.

The standard BMW chip has maps for different grades of fuel and a few others but I don't think anyone really knows what the others are for. Possibly some change the open/closed loop running parameters and/or the target a/f ratio in closed loop. But certainly some make a bike run better than others. Sometimes - what works on one bike doesn't necessarily work on another. The BBPower chip, on the other hand, has 8 maps specifically designed for different states of tune as you probably saw.

The jumper setting I used was from the picture that Steptoe posted which was also from the BBpower chip blog!

Inevitably some of the BBPower jumper settings will coincide with standard (or Steptoe) CCP jumper settings but that doesn't mean they do the same thing! With a different chip you're selecting from a completely different set of options. The "Steptoe mod" makes a lot of bikes run better, but not all.

If no one has the "proper documentation" then surely the next closet thing that anyone CAN find has to give us the best "indication"?

There has been a lot of trial and error involved. Steptoe in particular has spent a lot of time looking into this which is how he came up with his recommended jumper setting. But yes, these are 'best indications'.

How did you decide your CAT CODE set-up?

My bike's a bit of an anomoly because it has an (arguably - to be proved or otherwise this week) duff ECU which means nothing makes it run right, but it came with a yellow CCP fitted. I've tried with that, without a CCP and with the Steptoe mod. Basically I've tried known alternatives.

As an aside I've also had a BBPower chip fitted and tried a couple of different maps from that (stages 1, 2 and 3). The BBPower chip makes the bike pull a lot stronger throughout the rev range, including beyond where the standard bike tails off. But it uses more fuel in the process (about 40mpg average rather than 45 with standard chip). I probably won't re-fit it in the new ECU.
 
Sorry to burst your bubble but this just illustrates that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. ..

.:D

The jumper setting I used was from the picture that Steptoe posted which was also from the BBpower chip blog!

Pure co-incidence.

Your cross referencing things that aren't connected. Calm down and ride your bike,
 
Hey Guy's,

Hope you all had a good christmas etc... :beer:

After going stir crazy from being iced in since picking up my new GS1150 on the 19th I'm please to say today I went for my first "pleasure ride" today! :D I took her for a quick blast across the top of the black mountains to get a feel for how these GS's perform around town and round corners. Going backwards slightly the good part was my brother pointed out the fact the Remus Evolution silencer still had the baffle fitted... As you would expect it got removed with digust having not long done my first 270 miles to bring it home!
Anyway, so my first outing and with the baffle removed... (Now keep in mind i've ridden sports bike for 14 years) WOW :D grin factor doubled!!! Ok im not announcing I have a GS that produces 100BHP because I removed the baffle BUT it has really released the bottom end pick-up and predictably gives off quite a GROWL from 3.5k rpm and upwards. I couldnt help myself but to open the gas and stomp through second, third and fourth with the tap wide open :eek: It sounded like a single pot paris dakar bike; WHAT AMAZING FUN!!! I laughed my arse off all the way home rolling on the gas at every given opportunity and my grin could have been attached to the throttle cable :D I would guess that reducing the back pressure has released low down torque and hence the more noticable pick-up? It also pulls round the rev counter faster too!

Once thing I did notice and I dont know if this is just a GS trait or cause for concern... When I snap the gas open for a few seconds then close it again I get a lovely BANG out of the exhaust which tells me it over fueled. Now I'm guessing (again) that this caused the requirement for the twin spark model, ensuring all the mixture is burnt??? I'm hoping one of you guys will put me straight? :thumb

Also... has anyone heard if the front brake disks are vunerable to warping? When I pull up to a stop using only the front brake I notice that I cannot regulate the pressure and just before the bike completely stops it feels like the brakes are pulsing. This is not an ABS model so I know that not the issue so it just leaves me with the idea of warped disks? I did a rough test and if they are warped its very minimal despite being noticable in operation. I need to use DTI to check them properly.

All thoughts welcome, thanks guys, Baz :beerjug:

Hi Baz , Try cleaning the calipers and also clean with brake cleaner the discs and floaters or what ever they are called those round things the discs sit on . As far as cat code plug goes I tried all combinations and found that for high end and low end power it ran best without . Every bike is different . As for braking I always used both front and rear at the same time on that bike . Nice to hear you are enjoying it . Jay
 
Cheers Sproggy... all understood and that makes perfect sense...

There are so many companies out there willing to sell JUNK claiming it will perform miracles... However the BBpower chip does sound interesting and could really open up some options.

Did you fit the chip as a result of the running issues? Maybe installing the chip has screwed the ECU? Have you moved back to the original chip?

There is an ECU on fleebay at the moment but its listed for a 1150 RT which I believe BMW changed the maps on to increase the top end BHP and shift the peak tourque further up the rev range?

If your ECU is humped there is a good chance it is operating in limp mode? Maybe you have already been down this road with Steptoe? If it is operating in limp mode then it should flag up an error code if you can check the diagnostics? This would at least save spunking dollar on an ECu you may not need?

If you plan to flog that chip I maybe willing to give it a go? :augie

Thanks for all the input on this Sproggy nice work :beer:
 


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