Fitted oil cooler...what have I done wrong?

[Rob Farmer]

I've just fitted an oilcooler to my R80GS today and for some strange reason it just doesn't get warm anybody got any ideas?

I've just fitted the longer oil pipe (the one the filter slides over) along with a new filter cover and seals, the oil cooler and pipes are not blocked. I changed the filter to a type 36 instead of the type 37 and made sure the metal end was facing outwards.
If I crack open the filter coupling bolts, with the engine running there appears to be plenty of pressurised oil at both unions.
I took the bike for a twenty mile run, the cooler remained very cold for duration of the ride.


What have I missed?

 

[Steptoe]

What type of cooler housing have you fitted -

There are two types, one with a thermostat, one without -

The thermostat housing needs bleeding - undo the bolt at the bottom of the housing, and screw in a longer bolt ( i'll measure it and come back to you if you have) that opens up the thermo valve and turn the engine over -

you use the same procedure when changing the oil, so it emptys the cooler when draining old engine oil -

if you've got the straight through housing, is the cooler blocked ?

 

[Rob Farmer]

I fitted the one without the thermostat, shaft and cover are both brand new. The cooler and pipes are all clear (can be blown through with little pressure). Paragon sent me a message saying the cover should be fitted without a gasket, I think this is where the problem may lie, the new long shaft has a taper that fits into the cover so I'm thinking that the gasket may be holding the cover sufficiently away from the shaft to allow the oil to bypass the filter (because the pressure will be equal on both sides of the cooler)...goto be something like that because it's essentially a simple setup. The oil light goes off as soon as the engine runs so I'm not loosing pressure through the engine.

Strange?

 

[mikyh]

I had a different problem at the time

When I'd fitted a cooler.
I didnt have oil pressure.

Searching for a solution I came across some articles about it at
http://www.airheads.org/

And one of them described exactly the same problem I had, and the simple solution of not replacig one of the shims supplied with the kit.

It seems you have a related problem but opposite - maybe you need an extra shimm. Maybe.

Anyway i suggest you look in this directio and maybe consult the Beemers site as there's a wealth of airhead info there.

ATB Miky

 

[Le singe]

Rob, don't know if you've solved the oil cooler problem yet.
I've gone the other way with the modified engine I'm building,and removed the oil cooler.
There is one major difference beween the fitted and non-fitted options which could be your problem,let me know if you need the info,please.

 

[laughingBob]

Just a thought but, would you need add more oil to allow for the increased oil capacity.

 

[Le singe]

Rob,ignor my last reply,I've checked the relevant BM part numbers and found the difference in parts that I'd noticed was down to the previous owner's modifications!

 

[Rob Farmer]

Le Singe,

Thanks for the help. The problem was down to the paper gasket, Paragon pm'ed me and said it didn't need it with the non thermostat oil cooler, I backed off the long tapered shaft and found that it wasn't seating properly in the cover with the gasket fitted so took it out and it seems to work fine when the engine gets really hot, at low revs only one side of the cooler gets warm. I haven't got anything to compare it to but don't appear to have any problems (wait for the bang). If I slacken the nut on the return side of the cooler there's loads of pressure so it must be about right.

Bob,

The oil cooler does increase the oil capacity by 0.75 litres (I think). I've just twin sparked the bike so wanted extra oil capacity and cooler.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

wouldn't twin-sparking mean the ignition will have less full advance and therefore run a bit cooler - theoretically ?

 

[Le singe]

Better burn,more heat.
The ignition is only adjusted to optimise the timing of the more efficient burn.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

define 'better' ?

same amount of fuel - same amount of calorific value - same amount of heat.

less advance means more power provided to push the piston, and exit the exhaust rather than be conducted to the piston top.

??

 

[Le singe]

Depends on how long the fuel needs to burn.
The twin plugs enable the fuel to be ignited more quickly and hence the ignition can be adjusted to optimise the timing of this burn.
Put it another way,if X amount of fuel requires 30 seconds to burn,the level of efficiency would be really low,hence lower heat output.
Less advance is better with twin-plugging as the burn happens more quickly and energy can be lost 'fighting' the rise of the piston if the timing is not adjusted to compensate for this.

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

thats exactly wot i said.

therfore less heat ?

 

[Le singe]

Less heat is less power,that means that twin-plugging must make it slower, Motomartin,I've read your previous threads on modifications so I know you're winding me up!