Fitting a Givi AF330 to a 1200 GSA - method NOT pros and cons, please!

RSavage

RSavage

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Afternoon all

Loads of postings here about the pros (and cons) of the AF330 meant that I held off buying until a couple of friends fitted them to their 12GSs and were very pleased with the results.

So, I now have one to fit to my 1200 GSA and, because it is designed for the GS which does not have the upper screen brace and is made of thinner perspex, the coverings (part 5 on the attached image) are too long. Would buying just GS versions of these bits 46 63 7 673 913 and 914 solve the problem or would I have to buy the matching inner parts 46 63 7 707 221 and 222 as well?

Alternatively, how did other AF330 + GSA users solve the probem?

It seems that making a spacer equal to the thickness of the upper screen brace won't solve the problem because the Givi brace takes length out of the clamping bolt but in the wrong place in the assembly IYSWIM and taking even more length out of it by adding a spacer in place of the OEM upper brace will shorten the clamp even more, possibly to the point that the inner cap nut can't be fitted (not the end of the world) - unless others have done just this with success and no problems.

Regards

Richard
 

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Don't use the GSA screen brace (13)

Fit items 18 to the screen support (17).

Fit Item 5 through the Givi screen and clip item 18 over the alignment fingers. You may need to use additional washers (6). You will need to work out which way the parts fit together its all too easy to distort the interlocking fingers of item 5. They are handed.

The Givi screen brace goes outside of item 5. Additional washers might be needed or bend the screen brace ends slightly as I did. You will quickly know if the spacer (3) is too long because the screw (2) will go tight before the screen is clamped.

In my case the previous owner had totally fecked up the alignment fingers on (5) and lost the spacers (3). After hours of struggle, I snipped the finger ends short and its all gone together fine with no top hat spacer. My screw threads (2) were starting to rust so Ive used copaslip. no problems with it coming loose.

I found the screen is less laterally stable that I'd like - wobbles at speed. A 1/2" OD steel tube strapped to the top mounts with P clips solves the problem and gives a handy point to attach a sat nav mounting block.
 
Bendy toy said:
Don't use the GSA screen brace (13)

Fit items 18 to the screen support (17).

Fit Item 5 through the Givi screen and clip item 18 over the alignment fingers. You may need to use additional washers (6). You will need to work out which way the parts fit together its all too easy to distort the interlocking fingers of item 5. They are handed.

The Givi screen brace goes outside of item 5. Additional washers might be needed or bend the screen brace ends slightly as I did. You will quickly know if the spacer (3) is too long because the screw (2) will go tight before the screen is clamped.

In my case the previous owner had totally fecked up the alignment fingers on (5) and lost the spacers (3). After hours of struggle, I snipped the finger ends short and its all gone together fine with no top hat spacer. My screw threads (2) were starting to rust so Ive used copaslip. no problems with it coming loose.

I found the screen is less laterally stable that I'd like - wobbles at speed. A 1/2" OD steel tube strapped to the top mounts with P clips solves the problem and gives a handy point to attach a sat nav mounting block.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bendy Toy

Your findings in terms of how it needs effort to fit seem to match mine. After an unreasonable amount of torment I was preparing to cut the fingers of the outer caps but, because of my reluctance to go down routes of no return unless there is no alternative and not knowing if I will like the AF330, I decided to put finger to keyboard in this forum in the hope of fidnint that I was doing something stunningly wrong. I'm going to order the GS outer caps as mentioned in my other thread in the hope that they work and leave me a retreat option. Will update - for the benefit of future AF330 investors (!) - when I've tried them.

Cheers

Richard


I'll source some suitable tube for brace stiffening. I might pursue using it as a mount for the Garmin - currently on N/S handlebar - as I found that I could not fit it using Nippy Normans universal mount to the original screen brace when the TT locking mount was included.
 
Try fitting the screen with some hard cardboard washers under the funny finger washers. It wont be permanent but should be enough to confirm (or not) that you like the screen.

Mine is currently on the highest setting at the mounts we've been talking about with Wunderlich Vario mounts at the front that lift it about 20mm. These are like short Tobinators. I get almost zero wind noise or buffeting well beyond "Really? How fast?" speeds. The lowest rear setting looks more aerodynamic but is actually more noisy at UK speeds. At unlimited autobahn speeds this does work better than having it tipped up straight.

For the stiffener I used stainless steel P clips with two clips under the rubber sleeve. Single stainless clips seemed too flexible, so I doubled them up. The screw hole ends have to be twisted to fit the angled screen so fiddly to fit.
 
Thanks

Cardboard is a good idea. I have ordered the bits of plastic as they are only a few quid. I'll have a look at the Vario mounts if I decide that I like the screen. Ta

Any chance of a pic of the stiffener setup?

Cheers

Richard
 
I stopped using Tapatalk (too distracting) so it could be a while until I get the pix off my phone.

Dave
 
Here it is with a copper tube and end caps. Steel is obviously better but Im not carrying the sat nav bracket.

IMG_2090_zpswqzd2q30.jpg
 
You star! That looks to be a very smart solution. Does the tube have a noticeable or significant effect on the screen movement?

Regards

Richard
 
It's does reduce the wobble. Brackets welded to the tube at the correct angle would really stiffen it up but that's not really a back yard fix.
 
Thanks

I know what you mean. Lots of solutions that take a disproportionate amount of time to perfect when compared with the temporary fix.

Where did you source the clocks surround and does it have a beneficial/detrimental effect on airflow/noise?

Cheers

Richard
 
I made the surround because I wanted to carry the additional gauges (volts and oil pressure) and made it more secure. It was quite a faff with cardboard templates etc etc so would probably not try to make it so long if doing again. A smaller voltmeter should fit above the speedo.

Noise and wind? I doubt it does anything. It does however make it much harder to steal the clocks. The OEM mounts are just three little C clips that pull out with pointed pliers.
 
It looks good. Sheet aluminium or perspex?

I thought that it was the clocks for the 1200GSA LC that were irresistible to thieves?
 
They are all like magnets to thieves. Check under the hexhead clocks and you will see how easy they are to "lift".

The cover is 2mm aluminium. It clips under the screen frame at the bottom edge. I trimmed mine just a little too much hence the packing but some clear silicone sealer would do the job. The screws are M4 stainless button heads tapped into the screen frame. I agonised over that but P clips looked terrible.

This is the pattern for a shorter cover. The two screw holes are a bit too far in from the edge so it was a scrapper. A better design would have folded edges at the top three sides. I don't have the tools to do that.

clockcoverplate_zps299e145f.jpg
 
Looks good. I can imagine the time and effort taken to produce a decent template. I know excatly what you mean about agonising over tapping into the frame. It takes considerable nerve to take a route of no return.

The GS and GSA versions of the outer covers (part #5 in the top diagram) arrived yesterday and the GIVI screen fits perfectly to item 17 with the GS version of 5. However, as predicted, the top hat sleave (part #3) is far too long and bushing (part #4) seats on the sleave before seating in the channel on the inside of 17. This is peculiar as the part number for the sleave is identical for both GS and GSA. Unfortunately - if this page: Max BMW parts fiche is to be believed - it is not available as a single item but comes free (!) with the whole windshield fixing assembly (GS part number 46 63 7 677 670) for a mere $110 :-)

Because the sleave sits in the bush, i.e. the GIVI screen stiffener sits outside or on top of it, the only solution I can see is to make a spacer equivalent to the thickness of the GSA screen brace (#13), place this outside the GIVI screen (so as not to distort the it) under GSA part # 5, and then bend the GIVI screen stiffener to fit. I think that this is exactly what you suggested earlier . . . . . . Sorry

Any thoughts? I'm really reluctant to shorten the bushing.

Cheers

Richard
 
Bendy toy said:
I bent the Givi supports so the ends sit correctly but have not used any sleeves/bushings. My bike never had steel spacers and TBH has never showed any need for them.

Rather than chop the costly originals, you can get a length of tube on eBay. Around £10 will buy you enough tube for dozens of bikes.

This is another option http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless...hash=item1e9ba96568:m:maXInrxoIdf1p8NsiyIQWuQ
Click to expand...


Thanks Dave

Indeed my motor factors offered tube - of which they have nil stock at the moment - with a washer TIG welded onto the end. Currently, the original screen is back on the bike - not enough time before the Somerset AM SWPSR rally next weekend to fettle the AF330 into place due to a funeral and other sh1t - but I will pursue the tube solution on my return. Thanks for the eBay link

Cheers

Richard
 
Hmmm

Mine has a special nut on the inside that's shaped like a top hat internally threaded to M6. I don't have the sleeve for the other end (presume that's smooth bore).

On the inside, you could get away with an M6 wing nut. They cost 2p so worth try.
 
I fitted this screen to my GSA too! My main problem was fitting the screen to the top brace as the screen holes were smaller than the brace ones! I used spacers from an old wind chime and cut them to size them cut a rubber grommet in half and fitted them on both sides of the spacer. I had to use a different Allen screw but it all works nicely and is solid. My first hassle was with the side adjusters which I over tightened and broke fof the adjuster from the bolt! Their instructions are still p***.
 
Bendy toy said:
Hmmm

Mine has a special nut on the inside that's shaped like a top hat internally threaded to M6. I don't have the sleeve for the other end (presume that's smooth bore).

On the inside, you could get away with an M6 wing nut. They cost 2p so worth try.
Click to expand...

Hi Dave

Yep have the top hats. They seat in the groove on the inside of item 17. I have obtained some sections of M6 x 20mm smooth bore tube from the eBay supplier that you recommended and will see how that works. I bought four bits so will have two spare. If they do the job I'm more than happy to send the spares to you - if you want them - by way of small thanks for your help and advice.

Regards Richard
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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