Fitting AKRA Headers

[Mozz]

Received my AKRA Headers yesterday and was surprised that it didn't come as a single piece. Instead it comes as 3 pieces that slot together plus the heatshield.
Those of you who already have akra headers fitted, did you fit them yourself? If so did you use new exhaust port gaskets and did you use any kind of paste where the joins are?
I thought of doing it myself but even the flange nuts where the headers meet the cylinders look like they need a special spanner
Took the heat shield to get powder coated today so that's one job done at least.
Can anyone offer any help or advice please

 

[2 wheel humvee]

Received my AKRA Headers yesterday and was surprised that it didn't come as a single piece. Instead it comes as 3 pieces that slot together plus the heatshield.
Those of you who already have akra headers fitted, did you fit them yourself? If so did you use new exhaust port gaskets and did you use any kind of paste where the joins are?
I thought of doing it myself but even the flange nuts where the headers meet the cylinders look like they need a special spanner
Took the heat shield to get powder coated today so that's one job done at least.
Can anyone offer any help or advice please

Congrats the AKRA headers are the best available,
To answer your questions.......
Yes I fitted them myself with nothing more than basic tools and a strong hook for the springs and a soft faced hammer,
No I didn't use new exhaust port gaskets, Ive put headers on every GS I've owned and have never renewed them, they will carbon up in time and seal themselves though opinions and experiences differ.......
Absolutely NOT, I did not use any paste, none is required, the sleeved pieces are a perfect fit and the retaining springs hold all joints together perfectly.
A deep socket is required to undo the header flange nuts.
If you are planning on fitting a can as well or at a later date you've wasted your money getting the heat shield powder coated as the original won't fit you have to use the replacement supplied.
More advice?
Allow a couple of hours to fit, use copper grease at the junction between headers and can, the electric flap/valve thingy is not required, disconnect the cables and leave the motor to do it's thing.
You will notice the difference in mid range pull and may realise that there was a flat spot at around 5500rpm that is gone with the AKRA headers fitted, the noise is a little less deep and a little louder than standard but not too loud, if you don't already have it start saving for the BMW Gear Shift Assist Pro-it's a must especially with the headers and a can.
Some will say you now need a re-map or power commander to eliminate lean running, that's a whole other debate...........
Good luck

 

[Mozz]

Congrats the AKRA headers are the best available,
To answer your questions.......
Yes I fitted them myself with nothing more than basic tools and a strong hook for the springs and a soft faced hammer,
No I didn't use new exhaust port gaskets, Ive put headers on every GS I've owned and have never renewed them, they will carbon up in time and seal themselves though opinions and experiences differ.......
Absolutely NOT, I did not use any paste, none is required, the sleeved pieces are a perfect fit and the retaining springs hold all joints together perfectly.
A deep socket is required to undo the header flange nuts.
If you are planning on fitting a can as well or at a later date you've wasted your money getting the heat shield powder coated as the original won't fit you have to use the replacement supplied.
More advice?
Allow a couple of hours to fit, use copper grease at the junction between headers and can, the electric flap/valve thingy is not required, disconnect the cables and leave the motor to do it's thing.
You will notice the difference in mid range pull and may realise that there was a flat spot at around 5500rpm that is gone with the AKRA headers fitted, the noise is a little less deep and a little louder than standard but not too loud apart, if you don't already have it start saving for the BMW Gear Shift Assist Pro-it's a must especially with the headers and a can.
Some will say you now need a re-map or power commander to eliminate lean running, that's a whole other debate...........
Good luck

That's great info, thanx for that. I already have the HP akra can and shift assist pro fitted so I'm good to go there. I was planning on taking it to Hilltop in the near future for the re-map......have you had yours done?
Oh yes, it's the replacement heat shield I've had powder coated. I didn't like the look of it as just stainless steel so by tomorrow it will be graphite black. only £15

 

[madmartin]

No i didnt replace the exhaust gaskets either no need. The exhaust flange nuts can be removed with a normal socket something like 12...13..or 14 mm cant quite remember. I replaced the exhaust flange nuts with stainless nuts n washers. All the joints/sockets i coated with copper slip and assembled.
Took the headers off to give em a good clean over the winter and they came apart nice n easy after being on the bike for nearly a year....clean em with a scotch brite cloth n t-cut.. come up better than new. Takes a good few hours tho...

 

[Bendy toy]

My bike has the Akra titanium system with shotgun cans. It sounds great but without baffles it's LOUD.
It didn't sit exactly the same on both sides. It's not obvious with standard bash plate but the wider Touratech plate showed it up.
The only problem is the joints have all seized solid and the tube walls are seriously thin. It works fine but unlikely to ever again be kit form.

 

[DING-DONG]

My bike has the Akra titanium system with shotgun cans. It sounds great but without baffles it's LOUD.
It didn't sit exactly the same on both sides. It's not obvious with standard bash plate but the wider Touratech plate showed it up.
.

I don't think Mozz will have these issues, being as he has a WC and the akro headers on the WC seem to be a tad better fitment then the TC ones.