Fitting front Wilburs Shock!

[russ996duke]

All going well, rear shock went on almost by itself, front was always going to be more interesting, but seemed straight forward enough, right up to the point where all that had to be done was to tighten up the top nut (a nyloc).......

and even with the weight of the bike on the wheels, all it does is spin the body of the shock!!
the BMW original has a neat little allen key sized hole in the end to allow it to be torqued up properly, the wilburs does not!
No apparent way to torque it up anywhere near the 47nm called for in the manual....the nut does turn down the threads smoothly, no crossing there, the nyloc element does not seem to be the problem, there are threads showing above it before the whole thing spins

so is there something obvious I've missed?????

original plastic spacers back in place as per exploded diagram in the right order...I just hope someone on here has the answer, regret that every accessory were unable to come up with anything other than "we have never had this problem before, let us know how you get on!"

any help gratefully accepted!!!

 

[D6]

if all else fails saw a slot in the top for a screwdriver to hold it,drastic on a new shock tho

 

[Cestria]

Just had a quick read through this

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/mountWilbers.html

If its anything like yours It looks like the wilbers has a nut section on the piston rod below the threaded bit you are trying to get a nut on. This will be below the hole it mounts through. Try putting a spanner on this to stop the piston rod turning while you tighten the nut on top.

I hope this is some help. Good luck.

 

[D6]

better than a hack saw

 

[cookie]

JIt looks like the wilbers has a nut section on the piston rod below the threaded bit you are trying to get a nut on. This will be below the hole it mounts through.

it does. more info here

 

[russ996duke]

Just had a quick read through this

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/mountWilbers.html

If its anything like yours It looks like the wilbers has a nut section on the piston rod below the threaded bit you are trying to get a nut on. This will be below the hole it mounts through. Try putting a spanner on this to stop the piston rod turning while you tighten the nut on top.

I hope this is some help. Good luck.

thanks for the advice...the spanner on the shock underneath the frame sounds good but will need to check that there is enough space to do it, the gs1100 seems to have a very deep "hollow" that the shock goes up into, reluctant to slot the end, not convinced that this would enable me to torque it up to anywhere near required number....but may have to, if no better ideas come along

 

[mike wright]

thanks for the advice...the spanner on the shock underneath the frame sounds good but will need to check that there is enough space to do it, the gs1100 seems to have a very deep "hollow" that the shock goes up into, reluctant to slot the end, not convinced that this would enable me to torque it up to anywhere near required number....but may have to, if no better ideas come along

Contact Wilbers they will have the answer

 

[russ996duke]

Contact Wilbers they will have the answer

Mike I wish that was the case, but contacting them was the first thing I did, lots of calls followed whilst I tried to get the problem across to them....they really could not help, as I said, they were keen to hear how I solved it

 

[mike wright]

Mike I wish that was the case, but contacting them was the first thing I did, lots of calls followed whilst I tried to get the problem across to them....they really could not help, as I said, they were keen to hear how I solved it

Thats not very good service..surely they must have come across the same problem as they have sold loads of them. I havent got a pair but if I find out I will post it up

 

[russ996duke]

Now Sorted!!

No Nut below the top mount and impossible to get a spanner on or even near there...tried trusty old strap used for removing oil filters (get some nice grip on the shock body above the spring with that I thought, nope

then removed shock and checked dimensions against original and warmed the rubber mounts/washers up to help them regain shape, then checked the upper spring locking rings for tightness,remounted shock and used the locking ring "spanner" in the lower of the 2 lock rings (i.e. the one that is locked by the upper so it cannot/should not be able to move position) to hold the shock body in place and hey presto, torque wrench made that lovely "click" !!!

phew, what a fiddle to do, poor design by wilburs not to have same system as oem part.

 

[Steptoe]

I've fitted more than a few of these units and never had any problems

 

[russ996duke]

I've fitted more than a few of these units and never had any problems

But then you are St. Eptoe!!

and I am just an amateur, with a small selection of hammers.....

 

[Steptoe]

and I am just an amateur, with a small selection of hammers.....

I use just the one large hammer. Usually to hit a screwdriver.

 

[russ996duke]

I use just the one large hammer. Usually to hit a screwdriver.

s'funny that you mention that...I saw that aldi/lidl have a special offer on at the mo' on sledgehammers....don't really need one but at that price it might come in handy if I ever change to a 1200gs