Fitting new Chain - help?

[Dakar Gal]

Is it normal to have to remove a few links from a new chain to get the correct length? If so, whats the best way to go about it?
ie - how many links to remove - should I go with a length that is at the shortest setting assuming it will lengthen over time? (I've changed the sprocket size too, so can't use the old chain as a guide)
also - is there an easy way to remove the links?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Wizard]

Could be, could be not. Generally, a standard chain is specced as something like a 525/110...... meaning a 525 size chain with 110 links, of which you may only need 103. But you can also get a bike-specific chain which should be the correct number of links. Unless you've changed your sprockets, in which case it could be too long or too short. Easy

You'll need a chain breaker of some discription..... best off down the dealers if you don't have one. But if you really really want to do it yourself, break out the cordless drill. Just make sure that you take the chain apart at the correct end of the link, otherwise you'll not be able to put it back togeather again. And use small drill bits (c.2mm), then move up in size. Don't try to force it.... the bit will cut as much metal as it can, pushing on it will either break it or put you off line and feck up your whole chain.

And if ya ain't completely happy, take it to someone. It's not rocket science by any means, but it can be a bit intimmidating if you've never even seen it done before. Just make sure you watch them doing it for the next time

 

[Greg Masters]

Try to find out what the standard sprocket sizes are and what length the standard chain is.

If you've added 4 teeth to the rear sprocket, you'll need a chain that is 2 links longer ie divide the change in sprocket size by 2 (as the chain only goes around about half the sprocket).

If you haven't got a chain tool, use an angle grinder to take the head off the rivet of the link that you want to remove. Then use a centre punch or drift to punch out the rivet. If you can press it out using a vice, so much the better.

You'll need either a chain tool or a split link to rejoin the chain (or a trip to the bike garage).

If you have a new chain, its length should be towards the short end of the wheel's adjustment as the chain will stretch with use. Check this twice before you cut the chain!

If you are using a split-link, the closed end of the horseshoe fastener goes towards the direction of chain travel. Ensure that both tags of the horseshoe are fully seated in the groves on the rivet.

When you fit the horseshoe, have someone standing nearby to watch where it goes when you accidentally twang it about 100 yards away!!

Greg

 

[Daithi]

As above,
but use a 4" grinderette, €20 in Homebase, grind the pins 'till you can pop the link off.
Get BB1 to do the grinding, his fingers are expendable.

 

[D6]

get someone local who knows to help u,then ur ok next time, if u r not sure ,dnt do it, u dont want the chain coming off or wheel out of line, its an easy thing to do, if your shown 1st

 

[Mzokk]

Get a chain breaker/riveter. Either buy one or even better borrow one (the one below would do your job and is cheap the last one I bought was good but cost £80 and I loaned it to some fecker and never seen it again!!) Don't mess about trying to drill out the rivet (ignore wizard ) as you'd need a bench drill and clamp to make any sort of job of it and you may banjax your new chain!!

http://www.bikebitzuk.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=999

The normal replacement method is:-

Break the old chain by the rear sprocket, connect it to the new with a 'temporary split link' type, pull out the old so it pulls in the new around the front sprocket remove 'temporary split link' to separate the two chains. Connect the two ends of the new together after moving rear wheel forward as much as possible and then removing appropriate number of links.

Assuming you have two new sprockets and no chain:- thread the new chain round the front sprocket. Make sure the adjusters on the swing arm are fully released pull the chain tight round the rear sprocket, check the overlap if there is half a link overlap make sure you remove one less link!!. Remove the links (if the wheel is as far forward as it can go I'd remove one less link than I thought I could get away with as you can always remove it later if need be)

If its an 'O' ring chain you are installing make sure you put the loose 'O' rings in before using the rivet tool to secure the chain using the soft link. Adjust the chain (remember a bit loose is better than a bit tight!) preferably with someone sitting on the bike and check the wheel alignment to aid the life of your new chain. (the wee marks on the swing arm are rarely accurate!!) Have fun!

 

[Timolgra]

Push the wheel forward to almost the minimum adjustment wrap the chain round and note how many links need to be removed, I always use a small angle grinder but you could always buy a chain breaker.

 

[Daithi]

I always use a small angle grinder.

Ya see, I hate to say I told you so.

But I told you so.

 

[Greg Masters]

... but use a grinderette ...

Is that a new name for an old profession?



Greg

 

[Timpo]

Don't forget the lube....

Grease the connecting link before final assembly, failing to do this has caused many a premature failure of the link.....

T.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Whats a Chain ???

 

[bb1]

As above,
but use a 4" grinderette, €20 in Homebase, grind the pins 'till you can pop the link off.
Get BB1 to do the grinding, his fingers are expendable.

Cheers Daithi, I'm now the proud owner of a grinderette.

no fingers were harmed during the removal of the links

 

[Dakar Gal]

Thanks for all your help guys. Chain is on again and sized correctly. Took three links out using the grinderette method (should it not be a grindereen?)

Another job that will take a quarter of the time when I have to do it again!