Flappy valve renovation.

What happens if you keep exercising it open/shut?
If it begins to free off you can later add some lubricant. Moly powder can be got in an alcohol base which evaporates leaving dry powder behind.
 
It didn't move at all to start with but seems to have now freed as much as it's going to (worked back and forth for ages) put back on the bike for now, worry about it later :)

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In case there"s any confusion :The flap won't move at all when attached to the two cables ,cos they are rigidly connected to a servo at the other end ;so either disconnect the cables or easier , watch the flap move when ignition activated.
 
Yep the cables move when removed from the flap so the servo is working, just not strong enough to move the flap, wondering how free a new/good valve is? I guess if it doesn't self return on the spring it's still too tight though.

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Just found this over on ADVrider


kailong

"Gd day to all those who have the stupid flap problem.
Yest i dismantle out the exhaust pipe and have a real gd look on how the flap works. Spend quite some time tunning the cable controlling the flap but it was useless. So i dis-connect the wiring to the electronic module and test out a few time with engine igintion on and engine starting, found out the following.

After ur ride and u off ignition key, flap will be 3/4 open.
When u on ur ignition key, module do its system check and flap will be fully open. Now at this point, u disconnect the wiring to the module and ur flap will stay at full open position. Ride off and feel the different!"

So where is said wiring to the module?

Just managed to free mine up and now it seems to be working as it should...but this sounds like it would save the need of junking it ?
 
If it were possible to strip the spindle out of its bushings, some nickel based grease would do the job of lubrication.

I presume these units are not designed to come apart ?
 
Doesn't look like it.
There's a brass cap on the bottom pivot and the pully on the top looks like it's pressed on and possibly welded.
That's why I wondered if the brass cap could be drilled with a small hole, force some lube in and then sealed up again. No idea how to get at the top pivot without destroying it. Maybe drill the wield and remove the pully to remove the shaft and try to work out a way to reattach it. Not going to know until I start taking out apart. I'll take pics, just in case something can be done.
Might have a go at the weekend. Think it's scrap otherwise.
 
If it were possible to strip the spindle out of its bushings, some nickel based grease would do the job of lubrication.

I presume these units are not designed to come apart ?

No they are not BUT..

On my 2010 twincam the flap started to stick at about 20k. Despite trying various cleaning solutions/ lubes it was completely stuck at 24k so I took it off and put a stainless tube in it's place.
The flap then sat on the bench in a tub full of diesel, played with on occasion for a couple of months with no movement, until I knocked it over once too often!
I was going to bin it but having cleaned all the diesel off I decided to grind off the top of the boss on the inner side where it's been rolled over to see what the bearing was like.
What I found was, I think, a wire reinforced carbon bush.
I started to dig this carbon out and after about 6mm the flap suddenly snapped shut and could be opened easily by hand. I was reluctant to dig in any further because it now worked but decided to make a phosphor bronze bush reamed ?mm h7 to support the end of the shaft where I had taken the material away. This was made as an interference fit top hat shape and tapped 6mm in the end so that I could draw it out if necessary, as I had no idea about the shaft material/expansion rates and didn't know whether it would jam with the heat.
I then made an ally cover to go over the bush, held on by 2 grub screws locked down on to 2 flats I made on the flap valve boss. This keeps the weather/muck out.
The bike is now on 68k and the flap is still free and working like a good un.
Apart from the cables around the pulley I have never used any type of lube on it since I did the mod.
So is the carbon I dug out part of a proper bush or just the by product of the exhaust?
I really don't know without digging all the way to the bottom, which I would have done if the bronze bush hadn't worked first time but it did. So I have left it alone.
Regards
Stan :thumby:
 
Good one, Stan.
This is the info I've been looking for.
I'm assuming that it's not the pully end you were working on?
With hindsight, would it be possible to remove that carbon to free the flap and get away without having to make a bush?
Reckon I could make up a cover, but making a bush as described is beyond my skills and tools.
Think I'll go in and have a look anyway.
 
Interesting thanks :) any pics?
I've bought a "good used" replacement that I'm waiting for but for now mine is just disconnected and left fully open... I'd like to have a go at fixing the seized one though ready for when the replacement packs in ;)
Thanks
 
It would be interesting to know how hot the valve gets. If it's less than 250C a silicone oil should be adequate lubricant.
 
Copper or nickel will work with aluminium in contact with stainless. But the only stuff for high temperatures is a dry nickel paste.

Stainless -0.50V
Aluminium -0.95V
Copper -0.35V
Nickel -0.30V

In the normal way copper works as well as nickel. My side case mounting bracket (assembled dry by the factory) had seized solid causing the stainless M8 screw to shear off. I managed to get the fragment out with heat and drilling. It was replaced with Action Can high temperature copper/graphite grease and has never since had any problems.

I've searched the interweb for explanations but there is basically nothing useful to explain why/how the copper paste works when used between stainless and aluminium.
 
Think you all might be barking up the wrong tree regarding lubing it.
I've been working at it this morning and, as Stan says, it's some kind of composite carbon(?) bushing. It's relatively soft and can be trimmed with a Stanley knife. I'm guessing it should be self lubricating?
Unless mine is different, all of the seizure is in the lower pivot bearing, the opposite end to the pully. Get it moving and the flap works fine.
I've taken some pics and will post them later.
 
Must be someone local to you in Norn Iron that can turn down a wee bush for you, either a local engineering works with a lathe or pehaps ask someone like PatZX12 nicely if he can help you out ?

If all else fails pm me the sizes and I'll jump on the lathe at work one lunchtime and post to you.
 
Think you all might be barking up the wrong tree regarding lubing it.
I've been working at it this morning and, as Stan says, it's some kind of composite carbon(?) bushing. It's relatively soft and can be trimmed with a Stanley knife. I'm guessing it should be self lubricating?
Unless mine is different, all of the seizure is in the lower pivot bearing, the opposite end to the pully. Get it moving and the flap works fine.
I've taken some pics and will post them later.
Great, guess you had to grind that cap off on that side of the pivot?

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Well I reached for my trusty tub of Halford's Copper grease, must be 20 yrs old and says ok to 1150deg. Its convenient, I doubt very very much indeed that this area reaches 1000deg and hey, must be better than nothing. In any case, seems we have no science in this flap failure issue :nenau
I know there's people on this site that have clever temperature measuring devices, so before we start a 'what flap lube thread', tell us how hot it is in there.:D
 


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