for those thats had a final drive crown wheel bearing off

[fizzer]

could anyone please advise me , i am changing the crown wheel bearing on my 1150 (not the main bearing ),after pulling the bearing off i can see the thrust washer , it has a slight taper ,does that taper go facing to wards the crown bearing or the other way round .
to be honest i should have noticed when i took it to bits .
many thanks guys

 

[kennyc]

look here around 15 mins

 

[fizzer]

thankyou very much kennyc,a good video
all the best

 

[Slipperyeel]

I'm half way through this job myself (tho I'm not replacing the taper roller) so a couple of useful tips in there for me. Good video.

I've done a couple of things differently. Instead of cooling the whole crown gear assembly, I warmed the cover plate. To be honest, that assembly was so damned cold it all fell together. I had to warm it all too make sure it all stayed together .

I have also left the seal until, almost, last. By doing that I've been able to look in closely and check the crown gear assembly is tight up against the shims all around. If the seal is already in you can't see...I didn't want those cover bolts doing any more work than they needed...

I have read that when replacing the taper rollers you should re-shim. I've no idea of that's just being a tad too neurotic or its the pucker way to do it?



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[fizzer]

yes you are correct mate about reshiming,i have a friend who is a retired engineer who is going to help me with that bit .
he had read about putting the whole unit together with no shims in and putting some solder in were the shims go ,then taking it to bits again and measuring the thickness of the solder with a micrometer ,then take off the tolerance ,and thats your shim gap .

 

[Slipperyeel]

yes you are correct mate about reshiming,i have a friend who is a retired engineer who is going to help me with that bit .
he had read about putting the whole unit together with no shims in and putting some solder in were the shims go ,then taking it to bits again and measuring the thickness of the solder with a micrometer ,then take off the tolerance ,and thats your shim gap .

Sounds like a good, alternative way to do it . I'd use a few pieces spaced around it and then take an average.

I chose not to touch the taper roller. But only because most of what I've read suggested it isn't necessary if the big bearing isn't too shagged.

What made you replace the taper roller? Just a service or because you were doing the big bearing as well? Or was it clearly in need?



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[fizzer]

i am replacing the big bearing too,but to be honest the taper bearing was well worn ,alot of movement on it ,for me the biggest pain in the arse was getting the taper bearing race out of the casing , i needed to lend of a mate a race puller ,the type with a slide hammer,it did get but it took some getting out.
all done now just waiting for new bearings coming from motorworks ,then i will use the freezer/oven idea to rebuild it.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Sounds like you're at exactly the same point as me

I just hope I'm right to leave the taper bearing. I did look at it with a loupe and all the rollers look very clean as do the races...

Mine all goes back together at the weekend. Good luck with yours





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[Steptoe]

No need to put anything in the freezer.

Just heat the bearing up on an old sandwich toaster (can be picked up at boot fairs or junk shops for less than £5).. then heat the cover plate up and drop the output flange/crownwheel into the cover plate.


Heat bearing up (shown with lid open). After 5 minutes the bearing simply drops into the output flange.

Next put cover plate in.

Remove cover after 5 minutes and place on two supports.

Then drop crown wheel/flange into cover plate.

.

When cooled insert the internals into final drive housing and tighten cover bolts to specified torque.

 

[Deleted account 240901001]

...then a light wipe down with a petrol soaked rag....and pop your cheese toastie on.......

 

[fizzer]

thankyou steptoe ,i think i have one of those brevelle things in the back of a kitchen cupboard somewhere as ever the hive of good info
cheers mate

 

[Steptoe]

thankyou steptoe ,i think i have one of those brevelle things in the back of a kitchen cupboard somewhere as ever the hive of good info
cheers mate

Most homes have one, used a couple of times and then banished away forever....... Rescue them and put them to a far better use in the garage.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Based on the way my main bearing fell on, you're probably right about only needing to warm the bearing (so no freezing the crown wheel).

But not having done it before, I didn't want to risk having to 'mistreat' the bearing to hammer it on! Probably because I was still fresh from the abuse I gave the old one getting it off



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[(RIP) Bin Ridin]

Most homes have one, used a couple of times and then banished away forever....... Rescue them and put them to a far better use in the garage.

Crumbs!

 

[sean99]

Can anyone tell me the torque settings for the 8 bolts on the Final Drive cover for an R1100GS or R1150GS. The Haynes Manual conveniently overlooks this whole task.

 

[Grizzly]

Tightening torque for cover screws is 35 Nm - Tighten screws in diagonally opposite sequence.


Cheers..................Grizzly