Front cover corrosion

Being mechanically challenged i felt there was serious scope for me decreasing the value of my bike by spending a month preparing / painting the front engine cover in a futile attempt to improve appearances! So I opted for a dealer replacement of my bike's 11 yr old cover (not much worse condition than PaulB's cover all things considered). About £230 total installed under the dealer's 30% off normal labour charge for an older bike scheme. So its throw away the sound proofing foam, fit washers under the plastic guard and fit a front engine cover protection plate (already have a mudguard extender. Is there scope for garages to operate a system whereby they get a spare lightly corroded cover coated properly and operate a drive-in budget replacement scheme ~ used front engine cover anyone?


The fella in York has quoted me £100 to remove the front cover and get it powder coated locally to him. Not a bad price in comparison to having a new one fitted.
There are a couple of other areas on the engine that need attention too mind, around the oil sight glass and also on the right side where a large patch seems to be bubbling up.

On the whole the bike is fantastic, but it does bug me that the paint finish around the engine is not as hard wearing as it could be. I will get it sorted at some point, but I get the feeling it may be a pointless exercise and soon return.
As others have said, it's surprising BMW have allowed the issue to continue as the bike went on. I may just write a letter of complaint myself at some point and see where it gets me.
As an owner of a 3 series due for changing, and on our 3rd BMW mini I am perhaps due some good will, being what I consider a good loyal customer to their brand.

We shall see
 
I may just write a letter of complaint myself at some point and see where it gets me.
As an owner of a 3 series due for changing, and on our 3rd BMW mini I am perhaps due some good will, being what I consider a good loyal customer to their brand.

We shall see

You are wasting your ink printing the letter and the bike and car people may have the same name but totally different companies.

Just get it sorted and move on as you'll enjoy life so much more:thumb
 
I take it that if this panel is removed it will dump a load of oil out? Is that why it's masked and painted in situ?


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Correct, but more importantly, it is a fair bit of work to remove it, plus you then have to replace the crank seal and hope you got it right. Easier just to do it in place unless you plan on getting it powder coated.

Jim :cool:
 
I did my 1100's front cover in-situ and I didn't even remove the exhaust as it's a bit of a pain in the arse on an old 11.
There are loads of people who'll tell you that Hammerite smooth is no good but it's all down to prep and the way you apply it.

Remove *all* unsound powdercoat (you'll be surprised just how much the corrosion has crept under it once you start digging) and feather the edges of any sound coating.
Key the whole surface well (I used scotchbrite pads), degrease thoroughly with panel wipe and get the whole thing warm before you start (I pointed a fan heater on low heat at it for an hour).
Warm the can in hand hot water and shake it properly - don't skimp on this - it makes a big difference.
Test spray something to get the paint flowing evenly (there'll be a load of solvent in the dip tube of the can at first).
Apply thin even coats and dry them carefully between re coating with a hot air gun on low.
Doing this, you should get half a dozen thin coats on in in a single session.
Carefully remove any masking before the paint has fully cured.
The paint takes a good while to cure and it's heat dependent - try to do a few short journeys at first to get it warm but not red hot. It'll stink at first as it cures.

Having read all that, you may prefer to remove the front cover and get someone else to do it :D but if you don't skimp on the prep and put it on right, it's durable and not too hard to do (my 1100 was fine five years down the line when I sold it). You can also touch it up if it chips (mine never did - it is much more prone to chipping if you lather one thick coat on) and surface damage doesn't let corrosion creep unseen like powder coat does.

Horses for courses in the end ;)

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Looks great. How many winters has it seen since then?

It did five winters before I partex'd it for my TC just before Christmas. I had a crudcatcher and the paint was unmarked and sound. The dealer couldn't believe it was a 20 year old bike...
 
If it's not too late, Matt - you might consider hot-bolting the cover bolts, and prepping and painting (thinly) the pockets?

Otherwise - I can see the paint lifting from those locations.


[EDIT - just noted that you may have carried out the work a few years ago]

Al
 
If it's not too late, Matt - you might consider hot-bolting the cover bolts, and prepping and painting (thinly) the pockets?

Otherwise - I can see the paint lifting from those locations.


[EDIT - just noted that you may have carried out the work a few years ago]

Al

Yep - too late :)
It did five years / 30k and the paint was as sound as the day I applied it. After the pics above were taken I changed the screws for SS (coated in duralac) - zero issues.

In my experience, properly applied paint isn't nearly as prone to lifting as powdercoat. In the end it's all down to the prep - if you put the work in up front (and don't paint it with a stick) you can achieve a good, durable result.
 
Re comment about that pesky seal leaking.

Mine is leaking. I taped over the shaft threads etc to protect the real edges but probably should have used the special tool from BMW.
 
Looking better .... Mrs B not happy about the drying process .... She's waiting to go out ...! :blagblah:blagblah:rob:D
 

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Finished at last !!

Now I've done it I am hoping bmw are going to replace under goodwill anyway !
 

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That's a cracking job! Well done. I'm not sure I'd want BMW to replace it as what you have will surely outlast what they'd replace it with.
 
Can I ask what paint did you use and how good is the match .

Thx .

Hi ,

The paint was silver hammerite smooth ..... I used halfords grey etch primer first. The colour is not a bad match in fairness, better than I thought ! Where are you in Derbyshire ? I am in Stockport you are more than welcome to call round and have a look ! ( the kettle is always on !!)
:beerjug:
 
Another advantage you'll have painted over the gasket joint so less risk of rot creeping in from the metal joint face.
 


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