Front engine cover removal

Timolgra

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Just need a quick answer please or referal to the right thread.

I'm in the process of trying to tart up a mates '07 1200adv, it's on it's 3rd front cover, this one's only a year old and is in a right state.

Does the wishbone have to come off and is it a simple job?

Working on 1200s is fairly new to me...also an education:augie
 
No, wishbone doesn't need to come off, but the exhast does if you have a cross pipe it obscures the lower cover bolts.
You'll need to lock up the flywheel by inserting lock tool (or spare 5mm allen key) in back of clutch housing and remove the crankshaft pulley and alternator belt to get the cover off.
It's quite easy. Reassemble with an automotive silicon sealer, NOT hylomar 'cos it's pants as I found out and had to do it all again.
Also, make sure the crank position sensor is located properly on reassembly or the bike won't start.

I had my cover powder coated as it's harder than paint and relatively cheap.

Happy tinkering.
 
Gents:

I was thinking of removing mine and having it sandblasted and powdercoated at the end of the riding season to deal with corrosion issues. (Yeah the bastards corrode over here too and I've never ridden mine in the salt). I have an 06 12GS and have never wrenched on mine except for oil & filter changes because it was under warranty until this year.

If either of you could be more descriptive with respect to how you do it I would be much obliged: e.g. exactly how the heck do you "lock up the flywheel by inserting lock tool (or spare 5mm allen key) in back of clutch housing" (where exactly do you do this?) and "remove the crankshaft pulley and alternator belt to get the cover off" (how hard is this & what special tools do you need? - heard the belt is a bugger to get back on).

"Also, make sure the crank position sensor is located properly on reassembly or the bike won't start" (how do you do this and what are you looking for?).

Thanks from a mechanically challenged owner from the colonies.

P.S. Pictures would be even better

Cheers
 
Drain the oil.

Remove exhaust.

Remove plastic front cover.

Remove alternator belt. Lever it gently with a prybar or similar whilst rotating the lower pulley with a ratchet.

Remove lower square plastic cover & o-ring.

To lock up the crank you need to insert a peg in the flywheel to stop everything spinning. There is a hole on the right hand side top of the clutch housing, behind the air intake. Insert a 5mm allen key or a suitable sized screw driver here and rotate the back wheel or crank pulley with a ratchet until the allen key pops 'in' and the whole lot locks.

Remove crank position sensor at top of front cover.

Remove front cover!

Drive out bearing with suitable drift / press.

Send for powder coating.

Reassemble in reverse.

A DVD service manual is available with pics and diagrams from ebay, item number: 270585463459
 
Drain the oil.

Remove exhaust.

Remove plastic front cover.

Remove alternator belt. Lever it gently with a prybar or similar whilst rotating the lower pulley with a ratchet.

Remove lower square plastic cover & o-ring.

To lock up the crank you need to insert a peg in the flywheel to stop everything spinning. There is a hole on the right hand side top of the clutch housing, behind the air intake. Insert a 5mm allen key or a suitable sized screw driver here and rotate the back wheel or crank pulley with a ratchet until the allen key pops 'in' and the whole lot locks.

Remove crank position sensor at top of front cover.

Remove front cover!

Drive out bearing with suitable drift / press.

Send for powder coating.

Reassemble in reverse.

A DVD service manual is available with pics and diagrams from ebay, item number: 270585463459

Excellent thanks.:thumb
Yesterday I had an attempt at painting it by hand with just the plastic cover removed and am about to go back and finish it off.
It's looks a mess:blast so may still end up removing it and doing the job properly.
 
can u not just stick it in gear to lock the crank :nenau:nenau

Even easier to put the socket on the nut, hold the ratchet, turn the ignition on and give the starter button a tap. Ping, nut undone with no bother at all.
 
Even easier to put the socket on the nut, hold the ratchet, turn the ignition on and give the starter button a tap. Ping, nut undone with no bother at all.

Given that 1200s can rip the teeth off the starter ring when hydrauliced, is that risky?:nenau
 
Ta, good enough for me:thumb

Might be an idea to hold the ratchet with the thumb outside the grip, like the method used for hand cranking an old high-compression engine that kicks back.

If the nut turns out to be seized, you aren't gonna break your thumb when the engine spins and just get a sore palm instead.
 
Might be an idea to hold the ratchet with the thumb outside the grip, like the method used for hand cranking an old high-compression engine that kicks back.

If the nut turns out to be seized, you aren't gonna break your thumb when the engine spins and just get a sore palm instead.


I know that all too well, I was a diesel fitter for years and to be honest this isn't the method I'd personally use.......socket and a lump hammer for me:D:thumb
 
Might be an idea to hold the ratchet with the thumb outside the grip, like the method used for hand cranking an old high-compression engine that kicks back.

If the nut turns out to be seized, you aren't gonna break your thumb when the engine spins and just get a sore palm instead.

Think about it. Your standing on the L/H side of the bike, the ratchet in your right hand, the engine turns over clockwise. If it is seized, it'll just pull out of your fingers. ( but perhaps not everyone is so lateral thinking us me :confused:)

I've never had a seized pulley nut in over 15 years. But there could always be a first. :D
 


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