Front Engine Cover Removal

Andy Hird

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My front engine cover is shot and in need of a repaint.

I’ve read through my Haynes Manual and it looks a fairly easy job to do, the hardest part looks like getting the alternator belt back on.

Is it an easy job, or is it a royal pain of a job with the paralever in place, and one of those jobs that never goes well, and is better left to the dealers ??

By the way, I’ve done a drawing of the puller tool and could get this made at work.

Cheers

Andy
 
Alternator belt on and off is easy enough. There are a few threads about it if you do a search. I did my front cover in the summer, no puller tools required.
 
The alternator belt is easy enough to do, it's quite resilient to abuse and struggle. I found getting the oil seal back over the crankshaft as the cover is replaced the most fiddly bit. Read the threads as the process is well described
 
Had to do one on a mate's 1200 which was badly corroded.
I did it in situ which was a mistake as it couldn't be cleaned up properly due to the extent of the damage.

If it's really bad remove the cover if not, do it in situ:).........if it's a mate's, slap some Smoothrite on it:augie
 
The timing chest in the above link was badly corroded also, but access was good as can be seen, and it was no problem to prepare it in situ :thumb
 
Remove the alternator belt by levering and rotating.

Lock the flywheel by inserting a suitable size rod (allen key, screw driver etc) in the back of the gearbox on the top, right hand side.

Undo and remove the pulley wheel and the crank end.

Take all the bolts out, which leaves the front cover secured just by the grip of the sealant, then pull it off. I encouraged it at the top where there are a couple of bolt lugs which give somewhere to gently lever. As soon as it started to come away I prized it off by hand.

The seal can be drifted out easily once the cover is off.

I sent mine for sand blasting and powder coating as it's a much harder finish than paint.

I used a silicon based engine / gasket sealant to refit, and it's very well sealed.
Remember new seals on rebuild. The alt belt can be reused if you don't chew it up getting it off, but if you do, play safe and replace (about £15).

I've done it twice now with no issues.
 
It's true powder coat is "Harder" than paint, it is also brittle and will crack and lift allowing corrosion to once again creep underneath the finish, as soon as you tighten the timing cover fixings you will set up cracks in the finish around the fixing, once corrosion takes hold it is difficult to do anything but repeat the process of powder coat, it is not easy to simply touch-up, This is the advantage of the paint finish, it is "Keyed" to the alloy case with etch primer, it is easy and cheap to touch up, and it can all be done in-situ. Some covers may come off without a puller some may not without damage, which is why a puller was created by BMW for the job.
 
Hhmm...thanks for all the replies.

I've decided to do the job insitu, as the corrosion isn't that bad, it's just I'm really fussy about the condition of my bike. And seeing as I don't ride in the winter or the wet that often, it should last.

I'll also get one of those nice stainless covers to protect it, which should also help.

Thanks again

Andy
 
Lock the flywheel by inserting a suitable size rod (allen key, screw driver etc) in the back of the gearbox on the top, right hand side.

Undo and remove the pulley wheel and the crank end.

.

Save time and effort -
Put the socket onto the pulley bolt. Attach ratchet , turn ignition on a tap starter button - ping, bolt undone.

And no, it won't dislocate your arm, a child of 5 could hold the ratchet without any problem.
 
Save time and effort -
Put the socket onto the pulley bolt. Attach ratchet , turn ignition on a tap starter button - ping, bolt undone.

And no, it won't dislocate your arm, a child of 5 could hold the ratchet without any problem.

Try explaining that to the "authorities".... :augie:augie:augie
 


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