Front engine cover

I fitted a carbon fibre extender. £20 delivered from bloke in Spain. Stuck on with polyurethane body panel sealant when I bought the bike in 2012 and still going strong.
 
This looks interesting.
http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-por-20-high-temp-aluminium-heat-resistant-paint-aerosol-15oz.html

No comment about a primer being needed (or not) so maybe use some of this as well.
http://www.newventureproducts.co.uk/metcote.html

The instructions say,
Metcote is a quick drying single pack anti corrosion primer and heat resistant coating for metal. It can be used on mild steel, galvanized iron, aluminium, fibreglass and stainless steel.​

Not cheap but neither was the powder coat.
 
Has anyone tried anodising the front cover?
 
I fitted a carbon fibre extender. £20 delivered from bloke in Spain. Stuck on with polyurethane body panel sealant when I bought the bike in 2012 and still going strong.
I've just bought one from the same guy. Great price for real carbon. Hoping it makes some difference . So I'm pleased to hear you're happy with yours.
 
This looks interesting.
http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-por-20-high-temp-aluminium-heat-resistant-paint-aerosol-15oz.html

No comment about a primer being needed (or not) so maybe use some of this as well.
http://www.newventureproducts.co.uk/metcote.html



The instructions say,
Metcote is a quick drying single pack anti corrosion primer and heat resistant coating for metal. It can be used on mild steel, galvanized iron, aluminium, fibreglass and stainless steel.​

Not cheap but neither was the powder coat.

Bendy, thats the same stuff we use on new boiler shells when they come back from the boiler makers. You can buy it in
cans for brushing. Its good stuff but does start to go a little brown over time. If we let a boler stand for six months before
putting the lagging and cladding on theres a distinct brown tinge to it.
At the ten year test on boilers we take the cladding and lagging off and I will say the paint is still on even after being soaked
in oil and doused in boileing water.
What it would stick to the engine cases like is a different matter. Alloy is a pain to paint and you need an etch primer
that matches the temperature range of the paint your using.
 
Hammerite state that a primer is needed on aluminium. I usually use a self etch primer but will it cope with the engine temperatures up top? It's clearly a lot hotter there than in the visible areas

At the risk of repeating myself.
I don't really care what Hammerite say or what the accepted wisdom is.

I painted the front cover and rocker covers of my 1100 with Hammerite smooth. I didn't use a primer but it took great care with the prep and application. I sold the bike four years later and it looked as good as the day it. It hadn't flaked, bubbled, discoloured or any of the things that the people who have either never used it or did use it and ballsed up the prep and application say will happen. (And I ran the bike through the winter and had it pinging hot with 9 bars on the gauge in Italy).
 

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I have used Hammerite on loads of engine blocks over the years without problems.
Only used Hammerite etch primer ounce, that was on an aluminium V8 block which I then sprayed with silver smooth topped off with a fine silver metalflake in 2 pack laquer, the paint is still fine 11 years later.
I think it would still be ok without the primer.
 
I would rather use the original hammerite smooth, Paints now have to comply with EU directives on VOC`s.
So most are now water based and don`t seem to have the adhesion of the original formulas.
 
I've had the old Hammerite chip all too easily but to be fair, that was in steel tube not aluminium.
The new stuff solvent is much less aromatic than the original stuff. It doesn't seem like there is any water content.
 
I did not mean the new formula Hammerite was water based ( I have not tried it), just that a lot of new paints are water based.
You can always blow a couple of coats of 2K laquer over the silver to make it a bit more chip resistant.
 


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