front engine mounting bolt stuck in frame

gog

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trying to get the front engine bolt out to remove my engine but it's stuck, tight. it's stuck in the frame not the engine, as levering between engine and frame moves the engine, not the bolt. I've tried the washer stack trick but don't want to strip the bolt threads. I've put an awful lot of torque on it already. tried BFH on it (with the bolt on to avoid mushrooming the stud) and im sure it's moved slightly, but it's taken a LOT of walloping. bike is on axle stands with no wheels, so not really steady enough to go nuts with the BFH. been sprayed with plus gas last few days also.

is there a risk of bending the frame battering on the stud with a lump hammer whilst the studs corroded solid inside it? I'm not even sure which side it's stuck in, or both.

any ideas?
 
Normally a good soaking and they drift out, especially if no load on the engine mounting bolt itself. There is a freeze/penetration spray ( try searching Ebay ) which as it says freezes the bolt and penetrates at the same time. Try taking one nut off the left and fitting it together with the original nut onto the right side...so both nuts are on the same side with just a small gap between inner nut and frame...this gives a better purchase when twatting it with a hammer etc. You only need to move it a fraction for more penetrating oil to get in. Hope that makes sense !! :-)
 
It does kenny, thanks. It has moved already, im convinced im not imaging it, and ill measure how much is sticking out each side before resuming my assault. engines supported with a jack under the belly, so no real load on the bolt. might just need me to stop being a big girl with the hammer. buggers getting well copperslipped when it goes back in.
 
Gordon Get a bag of washers and undo the nut place washers behind and just wind it on a bit, remove nut add washers, replace nut and start again and basically pull it out

Note!!! Always have all threads through the nut before commencing to apply pressure on the pull bar or ratchet
 
tried that jay, stopped as I was worried about stripping the threads. I had a big breaker bar on the socket and put a good bit of torque on it and it wasn't keen. perhaps im being too cautious but not overly keen to end up drilling things out unless it's absolutely necessary!
 
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Mike P used to use windscreen de-icer - I've tried it a few times and it seems to work.
 
Take your time whatever method you use. I tried the 'nut and extra washer' approach and sheared off the bolt :blast
 
cheers Nick. that's what I was concerned about. I don't *need* to take the engine out but it's now something that will annoy me if I can't. it's a long term bike so at some point, it will need out. May as well tackle it now.
 
Wind a nut on tight on the end your not hitting, then hit the other end, that way your pulling as well as pushing the stud through, as others have said, take your time, and use heat to draw in the plus gas, warm the case, though carfull not to get to hot, before hitting with the big hammer!
 
thanks Ian. it's stuck in the frame though, not case. the method you mention is what I've been doing, minus the heat as I've no torch just now. I'll have it out on Sunday, hopefully without tears and more fixing required!
 

I know everyone will shout me down but i have always found that a heavy copper hammer works much better in these situations. They dont bounce off and transfer more of the force into the thing you are trying to move. Once spent three days trying to move a swinging arm spindle, bought a big copper hammer and had it out in 15 mins! Just my take on it.
 
Copper hammer and you need to put something heavy to stop frame just springing one good hit is better then many small ones. I had a transalp that the swing arm bolt was seized to frame I had to lay the bike on the anvil and one good hit and it was out easy. Couple of mates had spent days on it. Use heat if you have bottles but heat it up quick if you take to long to heat it everything gets hot and that's a waste of time
 


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