Front Engine mounts

[VAL. H.]

I needed to undo the front engine mounting bolt to enable removal of the side stand, though having achieved this it looks as though I could have got the pin out whilst still in place. Ho well!.

Anyway I naturally assumed that the bolt went right through/under the engine. But it seems this is not the case as the nut stayed fast and the threaded rod loosened off instead

So if I simply do it up again, can I assume every thing will go back in place as it should IE the engine casing is threaded, or is there a bolt inside the engine that now necessitates the removal of the front in order to tighten it up.

Also is 87nm the correct torque setting?


Anyway, with the exception of re-doing the cockpit area which is functional but looks a bit odd, the bike is now just about finished, once I refit the newly painted and lowered footrests and 'for now' modified stand.

I haven't measured it properly, but I reccon it's now about 5" lower in the seat hight (which is 2" narrower now too), than it was with the OE seat and the Ohlins shock when we bough it. Jill's now happy to ride it without me having to be there, and seems to be quite enjoying it.

So I'm guessing I'll have to look for me own Airhead now


Val.

 

[Kenny]

Engine mount is a bar right the way through with a thread either end for the nut !!! Whilst nut is off, spray with plus gas ( or similar ) as bar should be free to move but they can become seized...better to do this now ( even if you don't remove the engine mounting bar ) rather than when you really need to do it

Proff put me onto some freeze release spray (which came yesterday)...would have been ideal for this job

 

[John Armstrong]

After messing about with mine, the LH one started to undo itself and then you couldn't change down

IIRC there's two torque settings in the repair manual. I used the lower one and plenty of threadlock to try and stop the undoing again. IIRC best to torque up both sides as well.

 

[Redboots]

IIRC there's two torque settings in the repair manual. I used the lower one and plenty of threadlock to try and stop the undoing again.

Torque settings are 54 THEN 87 NM not OR

John

 

[John Armstrong]

Torque settings are 54 THEN 87 NM not OR

John

I saw the 54 / 77 MOD 91 as being 54 pre and 77 post mod

Job for tomorrow then

 

[VAL. H.]

Engine mount is a bar right the way through with a thread either end for the nut !!! Whilst nut is off, spray with plus gas ( or similar ) as bar should be free to move but they can become seized...better to do this now ( even if you don't remove the engine mounting bar ) rather than when you really need to do it

Proff put me onto some freeze release spray (which came yesterday)...would have been ideal for this job

Ahh! That'll explain why the other end was loose when I asked Jill to hold it firm.

So the rod itself is definately not seized. But the nut on the side stand end might be

Val.

 

[John Armstrong]

Need to get the bar with the correct amounts on each end too, as you can see why on my experience, admitedly on the rear one.

 

[Voyager]

Put a trolley jack (or equivalent) under the sump and just take the load off the front mounting before drawing out the long stud (threaded at each end).

(You're probably doing that already ).


I put copperslip on mine as the read stud on my R80RT was siezed solid and I didn't want that to happen on the 100GS.


Bob.

 

[brassmonkey001]

If there is sufficient thread protruding from the engine mount bar opposite to the sidestand end then put another nut on it to lock the two nuts together then you should find it a bit easier to undo the nut you want.
I hope this makes some sense but I suspect not so much.

 

[John Armstrong]

If there is sufficient thread protruding from the engine mount bar opposite to the sidestand end then put another nut on it to lock the two nuts together then you should find it a bit easier to undo the nut you want.
I hope this makes some sense but I suspect not so much.

Does to me

 

[PW Cymru]

So how do you get the tie rods out if their seized.

The rear tie-rod on my RS was used to mount a really ****y side stand which has damaged the thread of the tie rod on the left and I'd like to fit some stainless rods in there.

I've tried using the nut to extract it against the frame lug but it won't budge. Iv'e tried an engineers persuader with the nut flush on the end of the thread but no movement.

Applied some WD40 and I'll leave it soak for a while but I don't think that'll help due to the width of hidden contact area of the tie-rod.

May have to resort to locally applied heat on the engine case and spacer bar.

From the gathered experience which normally causes the seizure, the lugs at the rear of the sump or the spacer between the lugs.

 

[Redboots]

May have to resort to locally applied heat on the engine case and spacer bar.

From the gathered experience which normally causes the seizure, the lugs at the rear of the sump or the spacer between the lugs.

Try laying the bike over as far as possible and apply Plus-Gas every hour or so to get penetration

Coat the new pin with copper-slip to prevent this happening again.

John

 

[brassmonkey001]

So how do you get the tie rods out if their seized.

The rear tie-rod on my RS was used to mount a really ****y side stand which has damaged the thread of the tie rod on the left and I'd like to fit some stainless rods in there.

I've tried using the nut to extract it against the frame lug but it won't budge. Iv'e tried an engineers persuader with the nut flush on the end of the thread but no movement.

Applied some WD40 and I'll leave it soak for a while but I don't think that'll help due to the width of hidden contact area of the tie-rod.

May have to resort to locally applied heat on the engine case and spacer bar.

From the gathered experience which normally causes the seizure, the lugs at the rear of the sump or the spacer between the lugs.

Does it turn or is it seized solid?
It might be beneficial to put a jack underneath to take some of the weight off the pin, especially if it has worn and there is now a lip preventing it from coming out.

 

[PW Cymru]

Seized solid, won't move at all.

 

[JPR]

Stop faffing about like some big Welsh Girly.
Get a four pound lump hammer and give it some big licks.

 

[PW Cymru]

Hi Jim, Done that.

Think I need a bigger girly
Sledge hammer next

 

[Rob Farmer]

What ever you do don't hit it with a hammer

Undo both of the nuts. Lay the bike on it's side and pour a load of Plus gas onto it., Let it soak in and then put a few washers over one end of the bolt and put the nut back on. Get a long breaker bar and do the nut up as tight as you can., hopefully something should move. take the nut off, flip the frame over and do it all again. I had an 81 that took the best part of a day to work out. If you whack it with a hammer the threads will be buggered.

Copper slipping the lot once a year is a good idea.

 

[PW Cymru]

Thanks Rob, I'll take the more subtle approach then.

I'm going to fit new stainless rods in there if there rusty ones com out.

 

[VAL. H.]

I tried the 4lb lump hammer option once, to shift a seized swing arm spindle.

After several heavy blows I missed and hit the side of my knee full pelt 'Ouch!' Haven't walked straight since



Moral of the story???


Don't hit it with a hammer! You'll fekin break something


Val.

 

[PW Cymru]

I'll have you know I'm fully qualified to use a lump hammer