Look in Bakerlong legs post about the same prob he had and how he surmounted it 
Front Engine mounts
- Thread starter VAL. H.
- Start date
Look in Bakerlong legs post about the same prob he had and how he surmounted it
Took me a while to find that thread!
Start at last post on the the bottom of this page and keep going thru pages 3 and 4. The trick of adding washers then another quarter turn on the bar worked for me, the trick was patience.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showpost.php?p=990568&postcount=37
Remember the diesel and vinegar tho'
OR try loctite freeze release
but thats expensive
Remember the diesel and vinegar tho'
OR try loctite freeze release
but thats expensive
Thanks Gents,
Working on the front one but need bigger bar, can't lay it over as its not got the rear wheel on yet, should fix that shortly.
Found BLL's thread on vinegar and will try as soon as able.
Thanks again.
Working on the front one but need bigger bar, can't lay it over as its not got the rear wheel on yet, should fix that shortly.
Found BLL's thread on vinegar and will try as soon as able.
Thanks again.
Finally removed the front engine bolt after days of gradual persuading with Halfods 24" bar.
However the rear one is well and truely F£%$"ed left hand thread damaged where the motorworks stand has fretted against the thread and the right hand side has snapped flush with the frame lug.
I've now cut through the spacer section and left both sides to soak over night again.
I thought working on an airhead would take my mind to a quieter place
Any thoughts
However the rear one is well and truely F£%$"ed left hand thread damaged where the motorworks stand has fretted against the thread and the right hand side has snapped flush with the frame lug.
I've now cut through the spacer section and left both sides to soak over night again.
I thought working on an airhead would take my mind to a quieter place
Any thoughts
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Dammit, that stud is really stuck isn't it ? So, have you now got access to both sides of the frame innards ( ie the spacer is removed etc ). I can only suggest heat and a big hammer at this stage...with the frame suppored on the inside..plus lots of plusgas overnight soaking....failing that...the drill will have to be brought into action with an accurate centrepunch hole and the the hole drilled larger each time until it decides to pop out !!
Hi Kenny,
Yes I cut the spacer out with a hacksaw blade last night and its now completely removed.
I've also supported the front of the engine and removed the front mount bolt and carefully raised and lowered the engine to break the seizure partially and this worked great.
The near side is relatively free at the engine lug and seized solid in the frame lug and the off-side is relatively free in the frame but seized in the engine lug.
I've been applying heat to both seized locations and copious amounts of WD40.
I'm contemplating welding a nut to the damaged thread on the left side and using the nut to try and turn the bolt until loose.
Still thinking about the right side as there not a lot to work on.
If all else fails I may have to cut through the bolts either side of the sump and remove the engine then deal with the seized bits.
The engine bolt is suprisingly easy to cut with a new hacksaw blade.
Yes I cut the spacer out with a hacksaw blade last night and its now completely removed.
I've also supported the front of the engine and removed the front mount bolt and carefully raised and lowered the engine to break the seizure partially and this worked great.
The near side is relatively free at the engine lug and seized solid in the frame lug and the off-side is relatively free in the frame but seized in the engine lug.
I've been applying heat to both seized locations and copious amounts of WD40.
I'm contemplating welding a nut to the damaged thread on the left side and using the nut to try and turn the bolt until loose.
Still thinking about the right side as there not a lot to work on.
If all else fails I may have to cut through the bolts either side of the sump and remove the engine then deal with the seized bits.
The engine bolt is suprisingly easy to cut with a new hacksaw blade.
Instead of WD40 try Plus Gas. Fantastic for getting things moving
http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/5167/plusgas.aspx
http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/5167/plusgas.aspx
Left side is out after some gentle persuasion.
Right side is solid in the sump lug, tried heat and freeze, heat and freeze nothing.
Thanks Rob I'll try some Plus Gas.
Might have to drill through this one eventually.
Right side is solid in the sump lug, tried heat and freeze, heat and freeze nothing.
Thanks Rob I'll try some Plus Gas.
Might have to drill through this one eventually.
TFFT Its out.
After much nashing of teeth and a lot of heat, I managed to drive it out from the opposite side using an old wishbone bolt from a car.
Must grease regularly.
After much nashing of teeth and a lot of heat, I managed to drive it out from the opposite side using an old wishbone bolt from a car.
Must grease regularly.
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Phew TFFT...I think we are all taking a deep breath after that !!!
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