Front Fork assistance

Mallard

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I have just change the front fork oil in my 1150Gs.

The manual states; "the forks must be bled of air in the no-load (extended) position"

What does this actually mean, and how do I do it?
 
Mallard said:
I have just change the front fork oil in my 1150Gs.

The manual states; "the forks must be bled of air in the no-load (extended) position"

What does this actually mean, and how do I do it?

When you put the slider back into the stanchion, unscrew the small bleed bolt in the top of the slider, so no air is trapped as the slider is put back in place which could blow the new seal.
If you don't remove it you'll notice the pressure as you try and push the slider down.
 
It also means bleed them without weight on them...hence the 'no load position' comment.

Think 'centrestand' or 'front wheel off the ground' if the job was done with the forks still attached to the bike.
 
Marty Gutenfart said:
So how often are you supposed to change the fork oil? Can't find any mention of intervals in any of my manuals :confused:

Don't worry about it - it's not a service schedule.

The forks aren't like other bikes,the oil doesn't get "worked" as there's nodamping etc in oil head forks, thats what the front shock is for. The oil is just to stop wear.
 
But surely there must be some trick and expensive alternative to OE fork oil that good money could be spent on for no purpose?

Mind you, some people are apparently still using ordinary air in their tyres, instead of the atmospherically balanced stuff available in cans from Touratech. Apparently, I runs slightly colder and thicker than normal stuff, and thus saves tyre wear. If you re-use it after each change, it pays for itself in 5 sets. :thumb
 
I feel a "which fork oil?" thread coming on!

Apparently, if you're right clever, you can set the "no load" position at normal riding compression, then you get extra damping or summat. I tried it and couldn't tell the difference TBH ....

Nin
 


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