Front Telelever removal

[adamhuntuk]

Hi

I Have a 2009 1200gs and im trying to remove the front telelever. The ball joint end was no problem at all but im struggling with the engine end. I Have removed both caps from the Left and right. Then removed the nut on the right hand side so all i should have left holding it is the bolt that runs from left to right which i cant get to budge. It wont even turn.
Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

This may or may not help you but the manual has these as to be heated with a hot air gun before trying to loosen them. They have some serious thread lock on them I imagine and the heat softens it allowing the bolt to be undone.

 

[adamhuntuk]

I have managed to remove the nut from the right hand side. Am I right by thinking the bolt that runs from left to right through the engine is not threaded in and just sits through the bearings?

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[adamhuntuk]

Its part 7 in this picture that wont budge if anyone has any ideas?

 

[autogs]

have you tried a hammer and a drift?

 

[adamhuntuk]

I have tried a hammer and it won't budge. I can get it to turn slightly using a socket now but I have to hang on it to get it to move. Decided to coat it in wd40 and try again tomorrow.

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[Deleted account 211025001]

WD is ok(ish) but a proper penetrating oil works much better.

Andres

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

Warm it up and use a slide hammer, simples!

 

[autogs]

get the other half to twist whilst you bang

 

[Sot1200]

get the other half to twist whilst you bang

The clearence is very tight at both ends while there is ample space in between. If there is corrosion on the rod it would take some pounding and turning to get it out.

 

[Packer]

Sorry if it's a granny sucking eggs moment but don't hit the end of the shaft unless part 6 is threaded onto it, or a suitable alternative, i.e. longer, bolt. Drift it back and forward until the corrosion breaks up. Just as difficult on an 1150 but you'll get there in the end.

 

[adamhuntuk]

Thanks for all the replies. Soaked in WD40 and it has now moved a little. Decided to soak in penetrating oil overnight and will try again tomorrow.

 

[King Key]

One of the companies (maybe Wurth?) do a spray that is very, very cold (possibly similar to the the pipe freezing stuff?) meant for freeing up seized parts. The local VW garage here reckon it's good, I often carry out work there and that's where I saw it. Can't do any harm.

 

[Bendy toy]

My slide hammer at about 15" long was a dead loss. Another 2ft of 1/2" bar welded on the end sorted it out.


Sent from my phone with mangled spelling

 

[Pukmeister]

I presume your bearings have play in them? If so, what are the symptoms when riding as something seems slightly vague with my steering and I'm wondering if it could be the same problem.

 

[adamhuntuk]

Well she is finally out! Took A lot of beating back and forth. when it finally gave way it popped the bearing out on the LHS. Looks like the bearing was totally seized to the bolt.

The reason for changing this is i was fitting a new spring to the front and the lower bolt was fecked. I had a mechanic friend of mine try to remove it and even with serious heat we ended up drilling it out.

Now for the next question

Im fitting hyperpro springs to my ESA bike. the rear was easy using the hyperpro fitting kit but i have no idea how to do the front. It cant stand in the fitting device as the shock has a plastic bottom with a cable coming out of it and i dont want to put preassure on it. and the top of the spring has the oil pipe joints etc in the way so again have no idea how the special fitting collar would fit this. would be interested to hear how others have done it.

Thanks again for the help so far!