Fuel hose disconnects.

[mpjbiker]

Picture the scene-cold, wet day, row of deserted garages, 1150GS with idiot kneeling beside it in a pool of petrol with a freezing cold thumb over the end of a fuel pipe, hoping none of the local chavs saunter up with a fag on to see what I'm doing. And how did I come to be in this hopeless situation? I replaced the battery, that's all. Stupidly, I thought I'd undo the quick release fuel connections to give me a bit more room to lift the tank, and ensure all connections were good, etc. Fast forward to re-connecting the fuel connections-Insert white plastic bit into first joint, , this should just click, I thought. No such luck-fuel pissing everywhere. I'm alone, there's nobody about, and I've got my thumb over the end of the pipe. I couldn't get the joint together-I managed to grab a petrol can and let some drain into it, but once that was full, I had no option other than to wheel the bike to a nearby drain and let it flow. Once it had stopped, I still couldn't get either connector back together, and the white plastic bit snapped off one of them. How the fuck do these things go back together? The metal clip moves o.k, but what is the sprung pin for? I've been suspicious of these connections for a while, ever since my lovely silver engine became stained yellow by what appeared to be dog with a particularly nasty urine infection. I assume this was petrol, and the stain is permanent. The stupid pinched fuel hose clamps make getting them off far more difficult than it needs to be. So I still have a non-running bike. Advice, please, all! As an aside, while the battery was disconnected, I thought I'd fit a jump start post to the starter motor. Simply remove cover, attach to positive terminal, drill hole, job done! Yeah, right. Not if you've got crash bars. And how do you tell where to drill the hole in the cover? There was no template supplied. Bollox!!!!

 

[ian6760]

I hate those QD fittings, that's why I have two bungs to pop into the pipes if I need to take the tank off, and just keep them in with the spanners. Old school is cool.

As for the jump start peg, I fitted the arm without the terminal on, put the cover back on and Drilled a pilot hole after a good guess. Then opens the hole up with a dremel.

 

[Martyn H]

Picture the scene-cold, wet day, row of deserted garages, 1150GS with idiot kneeling beside it in a pool of petrol with a freezing cold thumb over the end of a fuel pipe, hoping none of the local chavs saunter up with a fag on to see what I'm doing. And how did I come to be in this hopeless situation? I replaced the battery, that's all. Stupidly, I thought I'd undo the quick release fuel connections to give me a bit more room to lift the tank, and ensure all connections were good, etc. Fast forward to re-connecting the fuel connections-Insert white plastic bit into first joint, , this should just click, I thought. No such luck-fuel pissing everywhere. I'm alone, there's nobody about, and I've got my thumb over the end of the pipe. I couldn't get the joint together-I managed to grab a petrol can and let some drain into it, but once that was full, I had no option other than to wheel the bike to a nearby drain and let it flow. Once it had stopped, I still couldn't get either connector back together, and the white plastic bit snapped off one of them. How the fuck do these things go back together? The metal clip moves o.k, but what is the sprung pin for? I've been suspicious of these connections for a while, ever since my lovely silver engine became stained yellow by what appeared to be dog with a particularly nasty urine infection. I assume this was petrol, and the stain is permanent. The stupid pinched fuel hose clamps make getting them off far more difficult than it needs to be. So I still have a non-running bike.

You are correct about the "urine stained" look, which disfigured my otherwise really smart looking R1150R. I purchased aftermarket connections from Beemerboneyard in the USA, & that sorted matters out, but I'm afraid the stain is permanent.
Or, to be more exact, I've never seen a method posted to remove it, bar the drastic step of engine removal & some form of blasting

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/161211800405ft.html

 

[Flanners]

Happened to me in the Summer £15 of juice down the road and in the back of AA van. I bought new hoses and connectors been fine ever since. I reckon the connectors have a shelf life mine broke inside. It was a nightmare. Then the fuel gasket on my 916 went too. My garage reeked for weeks!

 

[alfazer]

On fitting the starting post, I think a laser pen or laser level would be ideal. Take off the cover and aim the laser at the mounting point. Fix the laser in position, dont move the bike. re-fit the cover and make a mark where the laser hits it. Take off again and drill the mark.

 

[Bugbear]

On fitting the starting post, I think a laser pen or laser level would be ideal. Take off the cover and aim the laser at the mounting point. Fix the laser in position, dont move the bike. re-fit the cover and make a mark where the laser hits it. Take off again and drill the mark.

Nice one

 

[MattW]

I hate those QD fittings, that's why I have two bungs to pop into the pipes if I need to take the tank off, and just keep them in with the spanners. Old school is cool.

Yup. A pair of M8 bolts works just fine. Put a washer on one so you don't mix them up. :

 

[Flipfly]

On fitting the starting post, I think a laser pen or laser level would be ideal. Take off the cover and aim the laser at the mounting point. Fix the laser in position, dont move the bike. re-fit the cover and make a mark where the laser hits it. Take off again and drill the mark.

Fook me, that's a bit high tech. I fitted a bolt in the mounting, popped a bit of grease on the end of said bolt and loosely lined up the cover. Drill hole where grease is on the inside of cover........shhhhhhhhhhting

 

[Steptoe]

.
Or, to be more exact, I've never seen a method posted to remove it, bar the drastic step of engine removal & some form of blasting

Posted a long while ago. MEK removes it. Unless the coating has started to lift in which case you're stuffed.

 

[Martyn H]

Posted a long while ago. MEK removes it. Unless the coating has started to lift in which case you're stuffed.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[mpjbiker]

Replaced quick release connector-have to say these things don't fill me with confidence, and I'm not sure the paranoia is something I can put up with. Has anyone other than Martyn H replaced with expensive (but presmably better) metal or stainless ones? Seems like a feckin' expensive solution to a problem that shouldn't really exist?

 

[NeilDD]

I put the metal disconnects on my GS
I got them from RS Components via the internet on www.rswww.com
Search for CPC fluid disconnects, or connectors

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Replaced quick release connector-have to say these things don't fill me with confidence, and I'm not sure the paranoia is something I can put up with. Has anyone other than Martyn H replaced with expensive (but presmably better) metal or stainless ones? Seems like a feckin' expensive solution to a problem that shouldn't really exist?

Theres been a lot of discussion on this forum on the pros and cons of plastic verses metal. I had failure of both my plastic male connectors within a week of one another. It seams only the male fails and usually at the cutout where the female lock engages. This is the weakest point where the plastic is only 0.5 mm thick. When they fail the end of the male remains in the female portion preventing the check valve from operating. I chose to replace both my males with metal retaining the two plastic females.

You have experienced a catastrophic failure, with near disastrous consequences. You have to balance safety against cost. No matter what advise you get eventually you will have to deside on what you will feel safe with.

 

[Steptoe]

Replaced quick release connector-have to say these things don't fill me with confidence, and I'm not sure the paranoia is something I can put up with. Has anyone other than Martyn H replaced with expensive (but presmably better) metal or stainless ones? Seems like a feckin' expensive solution to a problem that shouldn't really exist?

Stop whinging .
For your information BMW have supplied metal male sections for the last three years... maybe longer.