fuel/ oil clock gauge stopped working

geordie

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hi lads,

after my 1200 was written off i took the plunge and got myslfe an 1150 instead, 03 plate with 22.5 k on it.

rode it home (260 miles) and its spot on, went out friday to go to a rally and rode m aybe 3 m iles to filling station, everything working and gauge showing 4 bars left (about right), i filled the tank paid and got back on the bike, fired it up and the temp gauge shows no bars, the fuel gauge shows no bars and the clock has stopped???

ignition on and off couple times then rode the couple miles to mates house, still not on, anyway done couple hundred mile with no gauge but when reached 180 miles i put a fivers worth in just to see me home.

onviously i can use the mileometer to see how much i have left but any ideas why this has happened?, worked fine then soon as i filled up it has gone off,
picked up with half tank so i filled it, rode 180 miles then filled again still working fine.
ive checked all the fuses under the seat and there all ok

Andy
 
Have you got Hid headlights?

they can cause the display to stop working every now and then

try pulling fuse 3, put it back in and then see if it comes back to life
 
yes mate its got hids fitted,

ive pulled all the fuses and put them back in just to see if any corrosion or anything and there all fine, the fuel gauge however never came back on.

its just with it all of a sudden stopping working rather than misbehaving then going off that made me think fuse..
 
does it still display the time on the display?

mine usually stops displaying temp and fuel but time is OK, a quick pull of fuse 3 sorts it every time

sounds like yours is a playing up in a different way then
 
the clock is stuck @ 12:19, no bars or anything appear on either the fuel or the temp side, all ive checked are the fuses,

il have a look tommorw and see if there is anything else obvious that may have caused it?

where will the ground wire be??
 
I think BMW always uses brown for ground... trace back the wires and find the brown one... clean that and make sure the ground is good.
 
When I fill mine up the temp and fuel bars disappear then once I have gone about 80/90 miles all starts to work again , happens every time I fill it.
I have ruled everything out apart from the internals of the tank !
 
geordie said:
the clock is stuck @ 12:19, no bars or anything appear on either the fuel or the temp side, all ive checked are the fuses,

il have a look tommorw and see if there is anything else obvious that may have caused it?

where will the ground wire be??
Click to expand...


If the clock is still showing numbers, the fuse is ok and the earth is OK.

It's got to be a faulty RID unit :(

(I hope I'm wrong though)

They do come up on Ebay, or Neil might have one stashed away, but the fact that there's digits showing (to me at least) says that it's not a power supply problem.

Sorry :comfort
 
slaphead GSER said:
When I fill mine up the temp and fuel bars disappear then once I have gone about 80/90 miles all starts to work again , happens every time I fill it.
I have ruled everything out apart from the internals of the tank !
Click to expand...


It'll be the internals of the tank then :thumb2

(seriously.)

The float arm runs two weeny little contacts up and down a potentiometer strip....it sounds like your strip has some crap on it, or the contact needle or the plate is bent fractionally so that when the needle is over that point, it doesn't pick up a reading.

Pop the tank open when you've got it to nearly empty (and no, you shouldn't need a new O ring) and carefully ease it out of the tank....the pump and mount and filter all come out with it

Look carefully at the slidy bit where the arm mounts and you may be able to clean it/adjust it

Change the filter while you're in there....only 15 quid or so from Motorworks.....ease it all gently back in, reconnect it, hopefully all done :)
 
Fanum said:
It'll be the internals of the tank then :thumb2

(seriously.)

The float arm runs two weeny little contacts up and down a potentiometer strip....it sounds like your strip has some crap on it, or the contact needle or the plate is bent fractionally so that when the needle is over that point, it doesn't pick up a reading.

Pop the tank open when you've got it to nearly empty (and no, you shouldn't need a new O ring) and carefully ease it out of the tank....the pump and mount and filter all come out with it

Look carefully at the slidy bit where the arm mounts and you may be able to clean it/adjust it

Change the filter while you're in there....only 15 quid or so from Motorworks.....ease it all gently back in, reconnect it, hopefully all done :)
Click to expand...

Gents exactly as above. As the float in the tank wears it swings out a bit and pulls the two connectors away from their connecting scale.
This then breaks the circuit which for some reason takes out fuel and temp.
The low fuel light is probably fine as it is a straight piece whereas the gauge goes over it and is a flimsier piece of metal in a v shape.
Managed to bend mine down enough so they made contact.
A multimeter is the best way as you can measure the resistance.
There is a thread on adv rider that talk about bending the arm. I didn't use that technique but it was useful for showing what wires do what on the 4 way plug.
Whilst I was in there also changed filter and replaced BMW clips with jubilee type. My o ring had well expanded so for a few quid I would have one on standby, just be v careful with the bolts to remove tank panel.

Other option is a new internal setup. But even my fat fists managed it!

Good luck.
 
just went to get bike out for a quick post work blast and the bloody battery is dead , wont even power the ignition lights :blast

i have it on an optimate which has been used on my last few bikes and this is the first time this has happened,

i bought a connector to run through the power socket on the near side and im guessing it wasnt all the way in, as i waggled the connector the lights went from yellow to red on the optimate

just wondering why its been drained completely flat as there was nothing on the bike to drain it, no alarm or immobiliser. ? any ideas?

ive disconnected the optimate and turned it on and off at the wall and re-connected it, the yellow charging lamp has come on AND the clock on my rid is now working:D,
gonna have another look tommorow and see if the battery has a full charge (was new in jan this year by previous owner but i can see the date stamped on it)
 
just checked the bike and battery, battery is still charging so i unplugged the optimate m
turned igition switch and fired it up straight away, :D

the fueal gauge , temprature, gear indicator and clock are all now working:D:D:D

can only assume that the battery going flat has reset the rid:thumb2:thumb2

so its all working now, well happy
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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