Fuel stabiliser - is it neccessary?

[Flyer]

I won't be riding the bike from about now until probably late February. Last year, I put fuel stabiliser in the tank and filled up with fuel and rode a few miles to ensure the stabiliser was into the fuel system, carbs etc.

Is it neccessary to use the stuff gor such a short lay-up? By not using it, would I be risking gumming of carbs etc?

Flyer

 

[MikeO]

What bike?

Mike

 

[wessie]

What bike?

Mike

His profile says "Honda Blackbird".

 

[Flyer]

Yes, it's a 'Bird. What diference does that make? It's the same fuel as other 4-stroke bikes use - unleaded. And I said in the post it's got carbs (as opposed to FI).

Can anyone answer the question?

Flyer

 

[MikeO]

Yes, it's a 'Bird. What diference does that make? It's the same fuel as other 4-stroke bikes use - unleaded. And I said in the post it's got carbs (as opposed to FI).

Can anyone answer the question?

Flyer

Well, I was going to suggest that, if it was a GS with an easily removeable tank, I'd recommend draining the tank & carbs/injectors as a way of ensuring they don't get varnished with residual crap. But if you're going to get snippy when someone asks a civil question, I suppose you could always ask for advice on a Blackbird forum....

Mike

 

[wessie]

Oi, tetchy. I never said it was a problem, just answered the question posed by Mike.

I rarely leave a bike that long without riding it. However, on the few occasions when I did, I have not encountered a problem. I do not think petrol in the tank will degrade much over 3 months. Although the fuel in the carb bowls may evaporate.

(I doubt that the 'bird has a fuel tap, but on older bikes I'd close the tap and let the engine run until it died).

I'd be tempted to fire the bike up at least once a month and get it to full running temperature, stick it on the mainstand or paddock stand and run it in gear.

This will circulate some oil around the engine and gearbox and remove any condensation that has built up in the exhaust.

Some petrol brands claim to have additives (Texaco clean system comes to mind) to clean your fuel system. Ensuring you have some of this in the tank rather than cheap stuff from Tesco may help.

 

[littleredrooster]

1. Ordinary unleaded goes to crap after 4 - 6 weeks. Loses 30% of its octane rating after 3 months. 4-star is only marginally better these days. If you are leaving it over the winter, drain the entire system or face the consequences.

2. Starting the engine once a month on the stand will not put it under enough load to do any good - probably the opposite; filling the engine with condensation 'cos the oil will not get hot enough.

3. Running the thing in gear on the stand only causes massive transmission chatter 'cos the back wheel is not under load.

Ergo: Ride the bloody thing when there's no salt and ice around!!

 

[Flyer]

Thanks guys - sorry if my earlier post seemed snappy - wasn't intended to be. I did ask on the Blackbird forum, and got mixed replies - that's why I thought I'd try here.

But still no one has yet been able to say whether stabiliser will do the trick.

Agree with Little rooster that if the engine is started, only riding it will get it up to temp - and if it's not up to temp it will do the motor no good at all with all that condensation and nasties causing oil contamination and internal corrosion.

Flyer

 

[andy2003]

Fuel Stability

Just my twopence worth<

The stability of the fuel in your tank will depend on it's opportunity to oxidise, to react with the air and evaporate, I know that leaving your tank full will be the best option, also reduces condensation, which can be a problem with part filled and empty tanks.

on the other hand fuel in the carb float bowls will go gummy so best to drain these.

 

[Jimb]

Flyer, I use Redex injector cleaner in my Bird, in a 1ml to 1 ltr dilution, fill up then take it for a run, it will lubricate the injectors and fuel pump, leave a film on the valves and stop the fuel from creating a shellac deposit in the tank, on your return fill the tank complely to prevent condensation and you can leave it for 18 months, i know this because I had a spine problem and couldn't ride mine for 18 months, I'm ok now and when I brought it out of storage she fired first time and runs like a "Bird".

If you plan to lay up for longer than 12 months, remove the plugs and inject 10ml of redex in each cylinder and turn the engine over by hand, in 5th gear pull the rear wheel round to distribute the Redex, put the plugs back and it will be fine for years.

Initialy use a stronger dilution to claen the fuel lines and injectors for the first tankfull then 1ml to 1ltr of fuel.

HTH

 

[Jimb]

PS

If your bird is a carbed version use regular Redex it will also lubricate the carb slides and stop the fuel from gumming up the carbs.

 

[Squidbrain]

My Kawasaki GT750 (see For Sale & Wanted - Winter Hack) has been in my shed since I bought the GS on 18.1.02. It still starts first time and runs beautifully for its monthly jaunt around the garden. Passed its MOT without probs (again) three weeks ago, all on the 21 month old petrol.

Draw your own conclusions.

Mick

 

[littleredrooster]

It still starts first time and runs beautifully for its monthly jaunt around the garden.

Try putting it under load up a hill and listen to the gentle musical tinkling of detonation.........

 

[Flyer]

Re: PS

If your bird is a carbed version use regular Redex it will also lubricate the carb slides and stop the fuel from gumming up the carbs.

It's carbed. Same dilution as the injector cleaner? Do motor accessory shops sell this?

Cheers

Flyer

 

[Jimb]

Flyer, yep, run a stonger dilution for the first tankfull to clean out the crap then 1ml / 1ltr of fuel. The dilutions are on the side of the bottle.

You can get it at just about all motor shops and morrisons supermarkets had some 250ml bottles with 100% free so it was a 500 ml bottle for the price of a 250, they also have Castrol GTX Magnatech semi synth engine oil at £4.99 for 2 ltrs, this is also a 1 ltr price with 100% free. For your BMW or car though not for a wet clutch bike.