It reads 10 to 180 ohm so will work with any sender of that range.
I removed the fuel strip but you could leave it connected. The top end of the sender was sealed in epoxy putty and attached to a countersunk screw and wire though the tank filler neck. The screw head is covered by the filler cap gasket. The bottom end rests on the tank bottom, I fitted an aluminium bracket screwed though with suitable sealers and gaskets (not silicone).
The fuel pump controller now needs a switchable bypass. I suspect the level reading will rise when the bypass is switched in as the pump venturi will now be pumping fuel across the tank. I've not yet tested that. I may well need the new fuel pump before that will work properly.
In the meantime we either accept a 35 litre tank that only usefully holds 26 litres or get used to tipping the bike over and hearing the fuel slosh across.
I removed the fuel strip but you could leave it connected. The top end of the sender was sealed in epoxy putty and attached to a countersunk screw and wire though the tank filler neck. The screw head is covered by the filler cap gasket. The bottom end rests on the tank bottom, .
It doesn't rest on the bottom.
The bottom end of the fuel strip should be sitting in a notch in the side of the tank, near the bottom.
This hold the bottom end of the strip in place and stops it from waving around in the sloshing about petrol.
If you have not ensured that it is correctly in place then it will stress the top end of the strip causing it to fail.