Fuelling/Air odd problem help pls

[Steptoe]

Incidentally, why the ferk do I have a second pulley on the alternator shaft?

It IS a pulley, clearly designed to take a V profiled belt, it's made of hard plastic and its ON TOP (ie in front ) of the pulley that actually drives the belt.....it seems totally superfluous to requirement and just makes it a bitch of a job to get the front cover off

All alternators later servo bikes have the double pulley.

Remember your lambda was flat lining on my lap top when it should have been peaking and troughing . I'd be looking in that area.

 

[Fanum]

All alternators later servo bikes have the double pulley.

Remember your lambda was flat lining on my lap top when it should have been peaking and troughing . I'd be looking in that area.

Just been out with one of those new fangled hand held electrick light things and I can't see the flipping Lambda....I'm going to have to take the bash plate off

 

[Timolgra]

Similar symptoms here
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281813

Which wasn't the Lambda, but the injector......just like yours was when Steptoe fixed it, for some reason it's failing again?

 

[Fanum]

Similar symptoms here
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281813

Which wasn't the Lambda, but the injector......just like yours was when Steptoe fixed it, for some reason it's failing again?

When I took the injector out today to clean it, the petrol from the pipe to it looked clean as a clean thing....I should have popped an inch or two into a jam jar to make sure i guess, but the crap that came out of the filter was opaque by comparison.
(It's had 3 tanks of fuel throufgh it in the last week or two though )

I think I might empty the tank down the drain (yah down the drain, DILLIGAF ) and fill up from scratch with a tankful, after swilling around a few litres to see what might come out.

I don't believe two injectors would go just like that without a cause, and the total (but temporary) cure when Neil swapped them over seems to me to preclude sparks as the problem.

Clean fuel, Lambda sensor, clean injector (and swap for RHS one), that's what's next on the list

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Remember your lambda was flat lining on my lap top when it should have been peaking and troughing . I'd be looking in that area.

Similar symptoms here
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281813

Which wasn't the Lambda, but the injector......just like yours was when Steptoe fixed it, for some reason it's failing again?

I was here as well when I first started looking into my fluffing problem where some Geezer in Kent put his probe into my plug and showed me a flat line on the Lambda sensors' output. It was changed and didn't cure the fault but was very expensive.

Incidentally I do believe an ignition coil under load will lose energy if it's faulty and breaking down: If the coils are shorting they will not transfer the higher frequency pulses across the transformer and you will lose sparks as the revs increase.

Did you try Steptoe's HES test whereby you rotate the rear wheel and listen for the fuel pump every 180 degrees of engine rotation.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Bill unplug the Lamda from it's main connection on the diagonal tube up to the headstock under the tank it's just about where the fuel pump flange would sit normally a long round black male female plug with 4 wires

That will put the ECU into a default fuelling mode which will run the bike at an average fuel mixture and totally take it's mixture adjustment out of the equation

If you tried to start the bike with a flat or badly discharged battery in recent history It's my theory that the voltage surge thru the bike could take out the HES

Has steppers a spare set he could let you try ???

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

When I took the injector out today to clean it, the petrol from the pipe to it looked clean as a clean thing....I should have popped an inch or two into a jam jar to make sure i guess, but the crap that came out of the filter was opaque by comparison.
(It's had 3 tanks of fuel throufgh it in the last week or two though )

I think I might empty the tank down the drain (yah down the drain, DILLIGAF ) and fill up from scratch with a tankful, after swilling around a few litres to see what might come out.

I don't believe two injectors would go just like that without a cause, and the total (but temporary) cure when Neil swapped them over seems to me to preclude sparks as the problem.

Clean fuel, Lambda sensor, clean injector (and swap for RHS one), that's what's next on the list

Have you tried disconnecting your fuel injectors from the TBs and attempting to start the bike whilst observing the fuel spray pattern? Aim it at the wall or into a bucket and you can see if there's any difference between the output from each injector. When you hit the starter button there should be a burst of fuel with a fine dispersal pattern and no dribbling.

I wouldn't waste that fuel becuase you've already seen it to be clean and it's supposed to pass through a gauze and filter but you could check again if you're unsure.

I wouldn't throw away your Lambda sensor if you buy another in case it's not the problem.

How old is the fuel pump? I had to changed mine at around 50K miles or so.

 

[Fanum]

Did you try Steptoe's HES test whereby you rotate the rear wheel and listen for the fuel pump every 180 degrees of engine rotation.

No, will try that tomorrow

Bill unplug the Lamda from it's main connection on the diagonal tube up to the headstock under the tank it's just about where the fuel pump flange would sit normally a long round black male female plug with 4 wires

That will put the ECU into a default fuelling mode which will run the bike at an average fuel mixture and totally take it's mixture adjustment out of the equation

If you tried to start the bike with a flat or badly discharged battery in recent history It's my theory that the voltage surge thru the bike could take out the HES

Has steppers a spare set he could let you try ???

Yes, battery is not healthy at all......have tried to start it many times when nearly dead.......wasn't intending on buying a new one until bike running ok though.
Will try unplugging lamda from there you say as well, thanks

I have a spare second hand HES in a box here somewhere that we used to take out on trips.....

Have you tried disconnecting your fuel injectors from the TBs and attempting to start the bike whilst observing the fuel spray pattern? Aim it at the wall or into a bucket and you can see if there's any difference between the output from each injector. When you hit the starter button there should be a burst of fuel with a fine dispersal pattern and no dribbling.

Yes, when at Neil's he squirted the injector onto his finger......without knowing how strong the squirt is meant to be, I am unsure if it was weak or anything, but don't forget we then changed the injector and it works for 10 miles on the way home before the symptoms came back......I think it's unlikely that a second injector should fail like the first, so perhaps that indicates a problem elsewhere

How old is the fuel pump? I had to changed mine at around 50K miles or so.

Brand spanking....fitted it two weeks ago. New audi fitment £50-ish.

 

[Steptoe]

No, will try that tomorrow



.

Pointless and will tell you nothing - that test is for a completely failed HES.

And another thing, a twin spark bike would still run better than yours even if the coil had failed.

Check the injector electrical plug wiring underneth the rubber sheath where it connects to the injector, and then follow the wiring all the way back up looking and feeling for breaks under the protective sleeve.

 

[illustratedman]

Had a similar problem on my wifes car, tried everything i could think of with regards to fuelling ignition etc, turned out the internals of the exhaust were collapsing. Completely impossible to see and it would tick over fine but as soon as it was under load the symptoms occured and the outside of the system seemed fine, has yours been de-catted?

 

[AndrewD]

Getting into the realms of 'stab in the dark' now but...

You have a wet plug so you have fuel, your certain you have a spark so you should have everything for "Push, Squeeze, Bang, Blow" you don't BUT it will idle.

What about a sticky valve?

 

[Fanum]

Pointless and will tell you nothing - that test is for a completely failed HES.

Ok, I WON'T do that tomorrow then

Check the injector electrical plug wiring underneth the rubber sheath where it connects to the injector, and then follow the wiring all the way back up looking and feeling for breaks under the protective sleeve.

Did that but only for the first inch or so....the two wires look minty fresh brand new, nice and flexible, not even any Moroccan dirt up there. will give it a squeeze all the way back as far as I can trace it though

has yours been de-catted?

once, but i kept smashing expensive silencers on rocks, so a long while back, I reverted to cat + stubby.

There was just such a strong and immediate result when we swapped over Neil's used injector with mine....we both looked at eachother and grinned, fixed!

Immediately after, I opened it up full on the A3 and yelled with a big grin as it took off as it ought to......it was only 100 miles later that it started playing up again. Nice thought, but i cant see a cat falling apart causing it tbh

What about a sticky valve?

the noise and 'clunk' is physical enough to be a hard part like that, but I truly hope it's not that.......

 

[warmshed]

A collapsing cat on a car is very common, causing this type of problem, a friend had it on two of his cars. Not sure about the GS cat but if all else fails try a Y piece, I have a spare if you want to try.

 

[Timolgra]

A collapsing cat on a car is very common, causing this type of problem, a friend had it on two of his cars. Not sure about the GS cat but if all else fails try a Y piece, I have a spare if you want to try.

It is, but not convinced this is Bill's problem as it generally just cause a massive drop in power, easily cured by bashing the centre of the cat out with a broom handle and chisel

 

[DrFarkoff]

Bill save yourself any problems and just fit that spare HES set

Once it's in it is eliminated from the possible factors and if it cures it happy days the answer is found

 

[littleredrooster]

Given that you've methodically tried almost everything else without success, I'm beginning to wonder if it could be an intermittent loss of compression on that side - sticky piston ring? OK when cold, sticks when hot. Could the 'clunk' be the breather control valve thingy?

When it goes 'fluffy' again, whip a plug out and do a compression test.

 

[Fanum]

Given that you've methodically tried almost everything else without success, I'm beginning to wonder if it could be an intermittent loss of compression on that side - sticky piston ring? OK when cold, sticks when hot. Could the 'clunk' be the breather control valve thingy?

When it goes 'fluffy' again, whip a plug out and do a compression test.

We did do a compression test when I was at Neil's and it was fluffy...It was low, but apparently not 'too low'......
I lack the knowledge to know how low is ok, but Neil doesn't.

 

[Fanum]

Not sure about the GS cat but if all else fails try a Y piece, I have a spare if you want to try.

It is, but not convinced this is Bill's problem as it generally just cause a massive drop in power, easily cured by bashing the centre of the cat out with a broom handle and chisel

Thanks for that, i do still have a y piece and remus I can bung on, will add it to the list of things to try

Bill save yourself any problems and just fit that spare HES set

Once it's in it is eliminated from the possible factors and if it cures it happy days the answer is found

 

[DrFarkoff]

AND DON;T LET THE BLOODY BATTERY GO FLAT AGAIN!

 

[Pauly S]

what about a valve

perhaps you have a valve sticking in one of the guides.?
go thru the process, suck squeeze bang blow..
how did you get on with checking the fuel delivery?
did you make it to the funeral on it?Paul