G/S Gearbox

[Beemerboff]

The box on my well worn G/S has started playing up.

First sign was the starter wouldn't work with the bike in neutral. The neutral light has never worked , but I think the trouble is at the lamp holder end.

A couple of prods on the gear change, up into second and back into neutral and it was OK, but at the next stop when I put it in neutral it sounded as if I had found a false neutral, with a bit clicking and whirring.
And when I restarted there was a new rattle from the box, and a reluctance to go into first. Up into second was OK.

The box is going to need stripped, of course, and I will have to do the work myself as there is no one left in Adelaide who I can trust to do the work.

I will be ordering the bits from overseas I was wondering if anyone has had similar trouble and could advise on any additional parts which I am likely to need, and indeed a list or a link to a list of the rest of the parts which usually need replacing. Thinking of Sherlocks for the bits.

I am going to need a puller and end plate too, tending towards getting them from Cycleworks in the US , but any advice and opinions on sourcing them and all my other requirements would be welcome too.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Before you go through all the palaver, just try changing oil {GL5} and the neutral switch !!!
False neutrals are in the box from new
but tend to hide until neutral light switch packs in

 

[Beemerboff]

Thanks - will try that first as I have a spare switch somewhere.

 

[steveo]

my G/S has had just the same selection problems, started with a bad first gear and was like that for a few weeks, then all gears became hard to select, ended up stuck in third. box is out and when its upside down it works fine so that would be the return spring then, AGAIN, happend exactly four years ago

 

[BAKERMAN]

New refurbed gearbox Sherlocks £400 was delivered friday for my outfit.

Also refurbed drive shaft £100

as I wasn`t able to stay in first or second and neutral wasn`t avalable.

Can`t wait to get it back,

Ride to Touratech Event first rode trip.

 

[Beemerboff]

Drained the oil and removed magnetic plug and neutral switch.

Switch leaking slightly but seemed to be working OK, much more fine powder/dust than usual and a small helping of "shellac " flakes, sufficient to suggest that trouble is on its way..

The PO had the box rebuilt 70,000 km back, including a higher 5 th gear which I would like to keep , but getting a rebuilt box has its attractions, as there wouldnt have to be much damage to any parts other than bearings, springs and seals before the cost, including the required tools, exceeds the rebuilt cost.

Decisions, decisions------.

 

[fayeslane]

Drained the oil and removed magnetic plug and neutral switch.

Switch leaking slightly but seemed to be working OK, much more fine powder/dust than usual and a small helping of "shellac " flakes, sufficient to suggest that trouble is on its way..

The PO had the box rebuilt 70,000 km back, including a higher 5 th gear which I would like to keep , but getting a rebuilt box has its attractions, as there wouldnt have to be much damage to any parts other than bearings, springs and seals before the cost, including the required tools, exceeds the rebuilt cost.

Decisions, decisions------.

A rebuilt box will get you rolling again, then you can do surgery on the existing box and if it comes up OK you can sell it to offset the cost of the new box or keep it as a spare. As you mentioned there is bound to be more to rebuilding the existing box than just a handful of parts, there always is -Murphy's law. Would you get a box from O/S or source one here?

Being off the road at this time of year is no bad thing -it has been bloody cold here. (Yeah, yeah I know. BB knows I'm talking Aussie cold)

 

[Rob Farmer]

I've rebuilt quite a few airhead boxes (around 70 at the last count) the problem is that they are all pretty shagged and need new parts, just fitting new bearings isn't enough so to do them properly is going to be very expensive. I come across a few of the exchange gearboxes, for financial reasons they tend to just have cheap bearings a quick case clean and new seals - just enough to make them work properly.

Input shafts are usually worn to the extent that the clutch splines are a very loose fit and the output shafts tend to wear where fifth gear sits. I've seen loads of very badly worn gears where the wrong gearbox oil has been used (should be GL5 spec at least).

If the bikes a keeper then you should be prepared for the expense of a new input shaft and possibly a new output shaft along with any other worn parts. Not cheap but if it's done the box will last another 25 - 30 years. Unfortunately most people just want a quick, cheap fix and expect it to be perfect.

 

[Beemerboff]

Spent tonight cleaning and polishing the exhaust - it is complete Staintune system so it is coming along OK but is was a real mess, so it has taken me six steps so far with another two to go, one with Solvol Autosol on the softest calio mop and then Solvol Shine to give it the final chrome type sheen.

I have managed to source a good second hand box from Lamont Stanford in the states - it will cost me around $300- landed and will let me strip and repair the G/S box at my leisure, and then I will probably rebuild it and keep it as a spare.

Rob, which brand of bearings do you like - I understand that there is a high cap rear output bearing with an extra ball which can be used.

I have seen someone selling the long inner sleeve only to fit to a stock bearing for the special front - anyone tried this ?

I have a good bearing factor who doesn't mind doing a little work to source anything I ask for, at a good price, but I have to know exactly what I want, either size and grade or bearing reference.

Complete new boxes are still listed on some of the US fiche sites for around $2,300 - not too bad and probably less than a shop rebuild if you need the three angle cut gears and the shafts.

Cold over here too Fayeslane, freezing fog patches, Scotch mist, 3 to 13c in the city and I live 1660 feet up in the clouds near the summit of Mount Lofty, so I am a few degrees colder for the first couple of Ks

Just got to get the number of layers of insulation right - I was at six at the weekend.

I dug my out my old R75/7, still goes well but it is now my only bike with a fly up side stand -----------.