G/s oil filter

[mick oliver]

Hi can anybody help me I recently bought a 86 r 80 g/s and I am changing oils and filters the oil filter that I have removed is a 2 piece filter and the new one is a solid one piece. I have a paper gasket then an oring then a shim . If I fit the new one do I leave the shim out they are both oem bmw filters. I would add photos but can't find how to add them and add a photo to the monolayer register
Cheers mick

 

[Kenny]

Fold the oil filter two halves together...and match with the one piece to ensure the same length.

With filter out, place shim inside first and then put the 'O' ring over the outer cover. I always use the paper gasket so that goes ( obviously ) between the outer cover and the engine. The three bolts are only 6 ft/lb or very thereabouts from memory.

 

[mick oliver]

Hi can anybody help me I recently bought a 86 r 80 g/s and I am changing oils and filters the oil filter that I have removed is a 2 piece filter and the new one is a solid one piece. I have a paper gasket then an oring then a shim . If I fit the new one do I leave the shim out they are both oem bmw filters. I would add photos but can't find how to add them and add a photo to the monolayer register
Cheers mick

yes filters are same length it just doesn't show shim in manual fitted for 80 g/s cheers still can't work out how to add photo thanks

 

[solidstate100]

It should have at least one shim, its there to stop the white o ring being cut by the metal edge of the inner cannister. In terms of the paper gasket, well, I would only use a paper gasket of there is one there already as they are not always used. If you dont use it, you shouldnt need to use silicone sealent EVER on housing to block join.

If this bike is new to you I would check the inner cannister depth and calculate the correct shimming to ensure the correct seal - plenty of info out there on this important procedure.

 

[B Murr]

Yeah, it's very important to get it right Mick, otherwise you run risk of losing oil pressure with negative consequences. Like said above, loads on the web about this.

 

[mick oliver]

It should have at least one shim, its there to stop the white o ring being cut by the metal edge of the inner cannister. In terms of the paper gasket, well, I would only use a paper gasket of there is one there already as they are not always used. If you dont use it, you shouldnt need to use silicone sealent EVER on housing to block join.

If this bike is new to you I would check the inner cannister depth and calculate the correct shimming to ensure the correct seal - plenty of info out there on this important procedure.

bike is new to me . paper gasket already fitted .what is the procedure of measuring (use a steel ruler) or is that too inacurate .what thickness of shims are available or do you just use a few .if filter is not tight enough on rubber seals would oil bypass the filter into the housing then get sucked back through engine .sorry for so many questions i will google it as well cheers

 

[B Murr]

Grab a cuppa and have a read, pretty comprehensive stuff on all BMW airhead tech matters on this site. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oil.htm

 

[mick oliver]

Yeah, it's very important to get it right Mick, otherwise you run risk of losing oil pressure with negative consequences. Like said above, loads on the web about this.

didnt see this until after i replied to solidstate so i guess the 2 seals on the the filter should be a tight fit on inner housing and outer filter cover so no oil can bypass filter ,(complicated stuff this )

 

[Rob Farmer]

didnt see this until after i replied to solidstate so i guess the 2 seals on the the filter should be a tight fit on inner housing and outer filter cover so no oil can bypass filter ,(complicated stuff this )

It only seems like it is. Once you get your head round it it all makes sense.

The original engine for one of my bikes had been serviced for years by oxford BMW. The owner at the time decided to let the guys who looked after his classic car do the service for a change before he rode to Scotland - the engine was scrap before he got there..

 

[mick oliver]

Grab a cuppa and have a read, pretty comprehensive stuff on all BMW airhead tech matters on this site. http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oil.htm

think i need something stronger than a cuppa after reading that

 

[mick oliver]

think i have got my head around it ,measure inner housing from where square o ring on filter seats on inner housing to outer face of engine block, then measure filter length from square o rings the difference should be 3.1 to 3.8 mm i can alter this by adding shims or gasket (hopefully i have to remove paper gasket ) i will use micrometer rather than steel rule i will report my findings if this procedure is right cheers

 

[mick oliver]

Some measurements I have made rigid filter is 1.65 mm longer than bendy filter but is the one specced for bike will this make a difference or just mean the square o rings built into filter will compress a bit more cannister depth is 3.6 to 3.9 mm depending where I measure so I averaged it out to 3.75 mm so if I use a gasket it reduces it by 0.45 so makes it 3.3 but I have to use a shim as it has sharp housing so do I add 0.3 which makes it overall 3.6mm. If this is right this is how it was before I touched it. Only other thing is I am waiting for bmw oem new filter kit from motobins but there o ring is black which I assume is same size as white one thanks mick (enjoying this airhead stuff as long as I got it right)

 

[Kenny]

Use a white 'O' ring, ( it is thicker )

 

[mick oliver]

Some measurements I have made rigid filter is 1.65 mm longer than bendy filter but is the one specced for bike will this make a difference or just mean the square o rings built into filter will compress a bit more cannister depth is 3.6 to 3.9 mm depending where I measure so I averaged it out to 3.75 mm so if I use a gasket it reduces it by 0.45 so makes it 3.3 but I have to use a shim as it has sharp housing so do I add 0.3 which makes it overall 3.6mm. If this is right this is how it was before I touched it. Only other thing is I am waiting for bmw oem new filter kit from motobins but there o ring is black which I assume is same size as white one thanks mick (enjoying this airhead stuff as long as I got it right)

think i have it wrong i want to end up with between 3.1 and 3.8 mm, my cannister depth average is 3.75 so if i added a gasket 0.45 it would make the space for the o ring bigger 4.2mm so the 4mm o ring wouldnt compress,, i need to use the shim which will reduce the space by o.3 which would reduce space for o ring down to 3.9mm which means the o ring is only lightly compressed ,

so now i dont think i will use gasket which will tighten up space by 0.45 leaving the space 3.45mm for the 4mm o ring to compress (just hope the black o ring supplied is 4mm

hope i am right this time

 

[ianboydsnr]

I never had any of these issues,

I measured nothing, I just fitted what was in before, pushed the cover over it, decided the gap between cover and sump was going to compress the o ring a reasonable amount by sight, then fitted the screws

I guess I am just lucky

 

[Steptoe]

think i have it wrong i want to end up with between 3.1 and 3.8 mm, my cannister depth average is 3.75 so if i added a gasket 0.45 it would make the space for the o ring bigger 4.2mm so the 4mm o ring wouldnt compress,, i need to use the shim which will reduce the space by o.3 which would reduce space for o ring down to 3.9mm which means the o ring is only lightly compressed ,

so now i dont think i will use gasket which will tighten up space by 0.45 leaving the space 3.45mm for the 4mm o ring to compress (just hope the black o ring supplied is 4mm

hope i am right this time

You're over thinking it far too much........ Simply use the same gaskets/O rings/shim (delete as appropriate) that were fitted. i.e. replace like for like.

If they were wrong your engine would have been scrap.
As your engine is/was running perfectly then they are correct.

 

[mick oliver]

You're over thinking it far too much........ Simply use the same gaskets/O rings/shim (delete as appropriate) that were fitted. i.e. replace like for like.

If they were wrong your engine would have been scrap.
As your engine is/was running perfectly then they are correct.

Other airheads I have had that's all I have done and have always been OK. But will use shim but not gasket and forget about it as long as it doesn't leak oil

 

[B Murr]

I think it's rare but the canister can shift, I'd rather measure and be sure, at least you will have done as much ad you can.

 

[mick oliver]

I think it's rare but the canister can shift, I'd rather measure and be sure, at least you will have done as much ad you can.

Glad I asked about it. learnt something new will always check in future

 

[solidstate100]

It may well be rare, but the inner cannister can shift both inwards and outwards over time thus changing the shimming etc. As the bike is new to you it was a total unknown as to its state so it was as well to check it to be sure.

Just for info, when I got my latest G/S (I didnt have time to deal with it straight away) there was a persisitant oil leak from the filter cover and on occcasion the oil pressure warning light would flicker at idle. When I stripped it down the large O ring had been trapped UNDER the shim/cannister AND also between the cover. Feck knows how the PO had managed that or for how long it had been run like that - 2 shims and a gasket and a ton of orange sealant were removed..... I did the measurements meaning 1 shim, no gasket, and all has been well since.