Gael warning on the Karakoram Highway

I may have mentioned that I sent off my old white SCHUBERTH helmet a few days ago to a truck artist in Lahore.

I gave him full artistic license and 3 days later here is what I received . I am blown away by it!




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Amazing bit of work, too good to wear!
What does the writing on the back say, or what did he tell you it says?
As Alistair says it's too good to wear, but I couldn't not wear it.

Cracking report again Simon on a part of our world many of us might never get to experience.
As Alistair says it's too good to wear, but I couldn't not wear it.

Cracking report again Simon on a part of our world many of us might never get to experience.

Thanks Aidan…although as it’s an oil based paint I suspect I won’t wear it long before it’s retired (it’s 6 years old) and displayed at home.

Lahore and surrounds is thronged with motorcycles carrying all sorts of stuff, not just families (6 on a bike is a regular sight):

A joint of meat:

A block of ice:

An electric motor or compressor:

A lot of somethings:

Eggs, anyone?

Sure he could have got more on:

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Spoke to my homestay host and he says it’s the duties and customs delays that will kill you (if they don’t lose it in the post).
Same in India. I had a starter motor for the GS sent there. It got there and customs said they had had it and they billed me the import. Then, gone.
Ended up getting the thing repaired but that was a long process.
I’m late to this but thoroughly enjoyed catching up this morning
Another great RR Simon :thumb
A few snaps from my final days in Lahore and train back to Rawalpindi to fly home

Traditional mud wrestling

Sufi shrine…intense drumming and dance

More beautiful Moghul architecture


Then off to the railway station for the final train

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I have two armed policemen behind le and a young fella sitting next to me who despite looking like an A level student turns out to be an Army person who insists on paying for my breakfast of chicken and chips

On boarding the train I had spotted the small galley kitchen along with some raw chicken

On arrival, Rawalpindi train station lived up to the imperial tradition

The final leg, the next day, was my BA flight to Heathrow. I had been looking forward to relaxing with some food and wine during the 8+ hour daytime but my reverie was shattered at check in when I was told : ´No food or drink is available on the flight, buy something in the airport cafe and bring it on’ So much for the money I spent on upgrading to Business class for some post-tour luxury .

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I'm so pleased Simon that you saw Pakistan in a different light than I did when I was there in 2009.

Your report and photographs are an encouragement for people to visit. Unfortunately I have nothing to say that is positive about the country .... that is my loss I'm afraid!

Thank yo for your efforts here, time to write up and with excellent photographs :thumby:

Wow Simon what a trip you have had . It looks a proper adventure and on the right bike . It reminds me of my many trips to the Himalayas as Medic with Global Enduro . I must have been out there 10 times . It looked like where you have been though obviously in the Leh / Ladakh region . Very remote and magnificent vistas . You really felt very small and insignificant in the mountains , yet spiritual . Thank you so much for taking the time to put this together , it must take so much effort . Enjoy recovering from this epic trip
Thanks all for your comments. Yes it’s a trip that deserves done quiet reflection afterwards, both the immensity of the surroundings, the intensity of a country of 230-240 million people and one facing many challenges.

But people were unfailingly friendly both in mountains and cities, without the intensity of contact I have experienced in several trans India journeys…it felt my privacy was more respected here.

So whilst I reflect and Storm Ciarán has raged I have been preparing bikes for winter (ACF50) and al off in 5 minutes to LoT the trail bike.

One compelling conclusion is how appropriate a small, simple bike (like the carbed Suzuki 150 I rode) for this kind of trip.

I al also glad I didn’t ride in a big city like Lahore as it was explained to me :
1.There are no rules
2. No one has insurance
3. Most people don’t have a license

As a result the dense traffic is a mass negotiation between people none of whom looks in their (often non existent) mirrors but also none of whom can afford to have an accident or a tangle with the police.

So, amazingly, it seems to work and I saw very few incidents but it would have totally frazzled my brain to do rush hour in Lahore on a motorcycle .

Anyway, end of story and thanks all for tuning in. Simon

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