Gael warning on the Karakoram Highway

[simondippenhall]

So the next stage is via Sost to Khunjerab Pass which provokes lots of discussion about weather/snow/black ice. So it’s decided we will breakfast at 0600 and then head up to Sost for a recce and see what other travellers report.

The cones are more visible this morning

It’s time to wrap up in multiple layers

Under my Klim I have a wind shirt and down jacket and under that a light fleece and two merino layers…feel like the Michelin Man.

Friendly soldier as we enter a restricted area as we get closer to the border.

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[simondippenhall]

It is getting cooler as we ride north and uphill. We enter Sost, a typical ramshackle border town (although it’s quite a distance from it).

As we stop for coffee and information I see this magnificent tandem (non cyclists can skip this bit!).

Owned by a German couple who are en route China, it has a Rohloff hub gear, S&S couplings and both rim and disc brake on the rear wheel (you can imagine the momentum downhill of this with 2 people and all their gear?). They were on a 1-2 year RTW cycle…made me feel appropriately humbled.

(Picture to follow when internet has eaten its weetabix ).


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[simondippenhall]

It is getting cooler as we ride north and uphill. We enter Sost, a typical ramshackle border town (although it’s quite a distance from it).

As we stop for coffee and information I see this magnificent tandem (non cyclists can skip this bit!).

Owned by a German couple who are en route China, it has a Rohloff hub gear, S&S couplings and both rim and disc brake on the rear wheel (you can imagine the momentum downhill of this with 2 people and all their gear?). They were on a 1-2 year RTW cycle…made me feel appropriately humbled.

(Picture to follow when internet has eaten its weetabix ).


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[simondippenhall]

The view of the wise in Sost was that the snow on the road was melting so onwards (and upwards ):

And luck was on our side as there was little snow on the road (no pictures as focus was on staying upright ).

It’s a little snowy and the yaks are rather better equipped for it

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[simondippenhall]

Lacking the necessary paperwork for entry to China , I turn back and belt downhill! The little carburated 150 has done brilliantly uphill with the occasional stutter due altitude ( it is over 15,000 feet after all!) but is very happy to lope downhill as am I.

I stop to appreciate autumn in the Hunza valley

The bike supposedly has a range of over 300 kilometres so no need to worry about refuelling just yet.

We stop in Sost for a delicious lunch at about 2….it’s been a long time since 0700 breakfast .

Back at the ranch we are delighted to learn there will be hot water for a shower. And later in the day, after another good meal, one of my companions (David from Virginia) demonstrates an essential accessory for adventure riders in these chilly mountains - a well filled hottie!

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[jeffa]

Great stuff, thank you

 

[simondippenhall]

Today was a ride up a mountain piste towards a remote village. By contrast with yesterday the temperatures was balmy and the sun shone…a great start to the day

Some more shots of a road which was indeed akin to a Moroccan piste although with greater drop offs to the side, perhaps? I decided to wear my Leatt leg protectors as I did not know how knarly the trail might be

The little Suzuki laps it all up and it’s great to be riding such a light bike, even if the unconventional (to us) gear change can occasionally give some surprises

I pull over to the side of the track along a deep ravine for a photo:

Apparently this caused huge alarm to my companions…this photo of my position will give you an idea why

Fortunately made it back safely to our lodgings despite the temptation to look around at the magnificent scenery which might have been terminal!

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[simondippenhall]

There’s a big Asian group at our lodgings and they have a fine setting for dinner

The locals are glued to the Pakistan/Sri Lanka World Cup cricket match which looks a tricky one for Pakistan to win after a big Sri Lanka lead

Tomorrow is farewell to the Hunza valley and a ride back to Gilgit.


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[Aidan1150]

Fascinating stuff Simon. Thank you for the time and effort to bring this to us.

 

[Redboots]

Tomorrow is farewell to the Hunza valley and a ride back to Gilgit.

Have you bought any of the famous Hunza apricots yet? Very nice.
I imagine they will all be of the dried variety an this time of year.

 

[simondippenhall]

Have you bought any of the famous Hunza apricots yet? Very nice.
I imagine they will all be of the dried variety an this time of year.

Have had lots of delicious apricot cake and the odd apricot…thanks!

En route to Gilgit we stopped for an early lunch…mutton, rice and paratha - and some uncooked vegetable salad which I decide to avoid. (On that topic, the majority of my companions seem to have succumbed to one form of illness or another over the last 6 days so I am doing my best to avoid the same fate, whilst recognising that it may be my turn soon).

Lunch in a beautiful autumn garden

Today we rode to the highest natural cricket ground in the world (8,800 feet). Had a knock about with some Pakistanis and scored a 4, quickly deciding to retire with a good average! The surroundings were spectacular and the ride down even more demanding than the ride up as even 1st gear proved too fast on occasion and the brakes not too sensitive.

Not a bad backdrop!

Then on to Gilgit, wending our way through various intermediate towns and their chaotic traffic patterns- or better said, chaotic appearing to us. Here pedestrians cars and motorcycles will pop out from anywhere and expect the road traffic to adapt to their sudden appearance .

Arrived in Gilgit we visit the GPO (which has run out of any stamps over 30 rupees, which is tricky when you need 10 large stamps on a postcard. An ingenious solution is found - put the postcard in an envelope and plaster that with 10 stamps!

Gilgit is a welcome whirlpool of city life after the sparse communities of the Hunza valley

Tailor shop in the market:

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[Redboots]

On that topic, the majority of my companions seem to have succumbed to one form of illness or another over the last 6 days so I am doing my best to avoid the same fate, whilst recognising that it may be my turn soon

We managed to avoid the trots until Pune where a night of beer and a plate of chicken wings was our undoing!
Vegetarian all the way after that Excluding salads...

Gilgit was the only place we were called "tourists"... that's what a guy that adopted up said he said Its not what his face said thought.

 

[Rich C]

Look out for the sulphurous Gardia burps....that'll need antibiotics...

 

[simondippenhall]

Thanks all for the dietary advice….I will cross my fingers.

Yesterday we rode from Gilgit to Astore along a great road/trail…again with fabulous views.

On the way, Glenn the Australian’s bike had a rear puncture which was rapidly sorted with a replacement tube (after a through check for any offending item in the tyre casing).

The bike seemed to handle the few Sandy patches well

Once we had put our stuff in our (rather chilly) lodgings - no electricity as no fuel for the generator, let’s hope they get some before dark! - three of us decided to venture up what was described as a challenging climb up to Rama Meadows and Lake. We rode up a series of steep dirt roads, avoiding idiot drivers who stopped in the middle of the steep trail, waved us last and immediately opened their door in front of us. Quick reflexes saved the day.

At the meadows we were told there was a little track that would take us up to the high lake….it turned out to be super gnarly and narrow with big drop offs so no photos as we were fully occupied staying alive. It was an exhilarating ride and we fist pumped with each other as true ‘off road gods’ ….until we were joined by another little bike with two people on it, which put us in our place


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[simondippenhall]

Now we are in Skardu City after what’s described as the longest and most challenging day….crossing Deosai Plain, a 50 km ascent and then 85 kms of rocky track across the 4,200 metre high plain. Fortunately the snow held off until we started the winding gravelly descent with breathtaking dropoffs at the side

It also had some interesting creek crossing so without exception we end the day with wet feet.

The autumn colours are fabulous and it’s hard not to let your attention wander (with potentially disastrous results).

When we finally make it across the plain and to the park exit we are starving and hoover up some biscuits and salty snacks from the tiny shop there. We are of great interest to these local lads

Then we meet some cheery and very welcoming soldiers

Tom at centre is half Australian, half Sri Lankan and maybe they see him as a potential recruit?

Then on down to Skardu City beyond its beautiful lake

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[Monsieur]

More stunning photos!

 

[Aidan1150]

What an incredible ride Simon. Thank you for posting, I am looking forward to more.

 

[Redboots]

Now we are in Skardu City after what’s described as the longest and most challenging day….crossing Deosai Plain, a 50 km ascent and then 85 kms of rocky track across the 4,200 metre high plain.

Then on down to Skardu City beyond its beautiful lake

Is that Satpara lake? There used to be an island at the lower end but they were building a dam when I was there and it was impossible to pass with the old GS, towards the plain.
Envious.

 

[gspod]

Fantastic photos Simon

 

[Deise]

Great stuff .

Any day you wished you were on the 1150 ?