Gael warning on the Karakoram Highway

You’re making me think I should go back and do the trip on a bike because when I went we had a Mitsubishi Pajero crammed so full of climbing gear we had to sit on sleeping bags and partially unfolded tents when using the back seats :D
 
Thanks guys for the interest! We were quite anxious about potential snow on the top and a Vietnamese guy who had ridden the other way the day before was clearly traumatised by ‘all rocks and sand and rivers’.

So I wrapped up with 2 merino layers, a thin fleece and a down jacket and a wind jacket under my Klim Marrakesh, and with merino long johns and wind proof trousers under my riding trousers. I needed this for some of the time but by the time I started seriously bouncing around K had to lose a couple of layers. It was only when it started to snow briefly that I felt chilled.

As Deise hinted, the 1150 would have been much harder work although kinder to my posterior. And I knew that if I dropped this bike (which I didn’t BTW) I could easily lift it. It also allowed me to fit past trucks on the narrow mountain trails.
 
You’re making me think I should go back and do the trip on a bike because when I went we had a Mitsubishi Pajero crammed so full of climbing gear we had to sit on sleeping bags and partially unfolded tents when using the back seats :D

Would thoroughly recommend that you do, Andy…the riding is great!


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You’re making me think I should go back and do the trip on a bike because when I went we had a Mitsubishi Pajero crammed so full of climbing gear we had to sit on sleeping bags and partially unfolded tents when using the back seats :D

Would thoroughly recommend that you do, Andy…the riding is great!


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Will you get to see De Match Simon?

Around here ‘De Match’ was earlier today between India and Pakistan in the cricket World Cup and sadly for local sentiment the wrong guys won. But if you are referring to Ireland/NZ tomorrow, there’s a reasonable chance we will have got to Khaplu, our destination, by the half time if not before.


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Around here ‘De Match’ was earlier today between India and Pakistan in the cricket World Cup and sadly for local sentiment the wrong guys won. But if you are referring to Ireland/NZ tomorrow, there’s a reasonable chance we will have got to Khaplu, our destination, by the half time if not before.


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🤞🏉🇮🇪
 
Would thoroughly recommend that you do, Andy…the riding is great!


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It’s a couple of years away (waiting for retirement) but I think it’d be good to go back for another look only this time I’d be more interested in sight seeing than going peak bagging and ending up frustrated.

I spent years going away full of hope and coming home disappointed because the weather was against us or our ambitions outweighed our talents and I’d like to go back to the Karakoram or ride a bike solo around Patagonia just absorbing the atmosphere. We’ll see how things work out :thumb2
 
Around here ‘De Match’ was earlier today between India and Pakistan in the cricket World Cup and sadly for local sentiment the wrong guys won. But if you are referring to Ireland/NZ tomorrow, there’s a reasonable chance we will have got to Khaplu, our destination, by the half time if not before.


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Stunning victory for Argentina over Wales
 
Yesterday we had a grim reminder that the mountain roads here can be tricky
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Tabish assured us that this route was tricky, even trickier than the Rama Lake ride.


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On any case it looks like we were lucky to get across Deosai as the very next day it looked like this
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So after yesterday’s epic journey (to us….only 150 kms or so, but since largely off-road it was a long day!) we had an easier day today, riding from Skardu City to Shigar.

We passed by the high altitude desert area of Sarfaranga with lots of sand and majestic mountains. My enjoyment of the tranquillity was somewhat restricted by the jeep rides in the sand and microlights buzzing around but a beautiful spot nonetheless.
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From there we could see this epic road up to a remote village but couldn’t quite rev ourselves up to riding up there…looks exhilarating!


Instead we bimbled on to Shigar and toured the fort, ate a magnificent lunch and then settled into our family hotel. We are now just four people (the Australian family and me) which makes things a lot simpler.
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I parked with my customary regard for regulations
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Three of us then wandered into town where we happened upon a freestyle polo match between Shigar Amacha A and B teams. As the guy next to me explained, ‘freestyle’ meant ‘no rules’ and indeed it was a hectic affair, with the polo ground being shared with cows, sheep and goats which made for same fairly intense moments. It was an unforgettable experience as we just sat on the wall, and often had to draw back as the players or ball charged by us.
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My fellow spectator was a polo player not playing that day but he rushed onto the pitch whenever a mallet was dropped and returned it to the player.

Here polo is apparently an affordable sport as ponies are cheaper and they only use one throughout the match.

Fellow spectators
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Along the road to Shigar we passed little villages where hay was drying on the rooftops and we wove our way through people, poultry and cars often parked in the middle of the road
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I have read many trip reports on here and done quite a few trips myself. This is possibly the best ever Simon. It's not often you read something that instantly makes you think - "when can I do that?"

Thanks for the great updates...

:thumby:
 
Thanks Richard. I really appreciate that especially from a seasoned traveler like you.

I have agonised over whether to do a report of a trip like this ie a group trip. But as I thought about it it really seems a rational (and the cheaper option) to fly here and travel given the challenges of getting to Pakistan by road - especially have ridden through Iran before.

And as Deise hinted it is such a joy to have a small light bike to tackle some of the ‘almost goat tracks’ here.

Now it’s laundry day…Glenn (with his daughter watching) and his son Tom seen here doing ‘socks and jocks’ during a brief interlude in the clouds. It’s bl@@dy cold here and we all had double or triple blankets as nowhere of course has any heating.
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Last night we hiked up to 3,000 metres and on the way down saw dung being dried for the fire
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I was pleased that I could walk pretty rapidly up so must be getting a little acclimated to the altitude after 2 weeks.


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I am skipping ahead a day but yesterday we ride the fabulous Hushe valley, gateway to Masherbrun (K1) and K2.

Gorgeous mix of dirt and tarmac roads, tiny villages, and fertile fields and terraces.

No heat, fire or hot water st the refuge in Hushe so a cold start this morning
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Masherbrun (K1) smiles on us this morning
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Great looking trip and certainly a good way to do it. Are you with Karakoram Bikers? Like a few folk I'm sure I've been having a look!
 


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