Garage Security Project

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I couldn't find an obvious place to post this, but I recall someone on here had fitted a horizontal bar/beam across their garage door, on the inside, at about 3 feet high.

The idea being that if the bad guys got in your garage, they couldn't simply wheel your bikes out (assuming they'd overcome your other security products).

I've seen the Guardsman stuff on YT, but all other suggestions gratefully received (y)

Photos would be a bonus.
 
Think that was borelord….

Cannot remember the name of the product, but remember him going on. ( and on, and on) about all the security he had
(If I thought I needed that much security, I wouldn’t live there)

Sorry I cannot assist any further, but hope you get sorted.
 
As I see it, a bar across the inside needs to be thick enough it won't bend, and securely mounted so it can't be bashed off the fixings. By having a bar across, they won't wheel the bike out, but they could just drag it out under the bar.

I think Warlord went with a lattice that goes right across the opening.

At my old factory we had roller shutters inside the doors which were alarmed. Rip them open, alarm starts to go and there's another full security door behind it. On a standard door the boss got a security cage door made for the inside. Of course we eventually had to have a cage placed over the ceiling lights.

My dad has a bar across the inside of his shed but the thief reached over it. Now he's looking at adding a bar to the outside as a very visual deterrent as he's worried about his BSA 650 that lives in there. It's his pride and joy even if it's in a perpetual rebuild.

My own garage has a standard steel up and over door to which I added a small reinforcement plate, drilled to take a large bicycle style U lock which is tightly fitted into a double walled ground anchor bolted into the floor, which I made by welding thick L sections to a flat plate. I also added 4 nice surprises in grooves cut into the steel... freely rotating tungsten carbide pins which I doubt even a Stihl saw would get through.
 
As I see it, a bar across the inside needs to be thick enough it won't bend, and securely mounted so it can't be bashed off the fixings. By having a bar across, they won't wheel the bike out, but they could just drag it out under the bar.

I think Warlord went with a lattice that goes right across the opening.

At my old factory we had roller shutters inside the doors which were alarmed. Rip them open, alarm starts to go and there's another full security door behind it. On a standard door the boss got a security cage door made for the inside. Of course we eventually had to have a cage placed over the ceiling lights.

My dad has a bar across the inside of his shed but the thief reached over it. Now he's looking at adding a bar to the outside as a very visual deterrent as he's worried about his BSA 650 that lives in there. It's his pride and joy even if it's in a perpetual rebuild.

My own garage has a standard steel up and over door to which I added a small reinforcement plate, drilled to take a large bicycle style U lock which is tightly fitted into a double walled ground anchor bolted into the floor, which I made by welding thick L sections to a flat plate. I also added 4 nice surprises in grooves cut into the steel... freely rotating tungsten carbide pins which I doubt even a Stihl saw would get through.

That's the way. Unusual bespoke security is the best.

Door behind a door is perfect.

And as you say, alarm contact on the first point of contact.

Extra points for booby traps!
 
Ive done it - I used a scaffold tube and 4 big eye bolts, two on the frame and two in the centre of the doors (one on each hinged door), I had to cut the eye bole shafts and also used epoxy and fibre glass to put them in so they do not protrude through to the outside, it's absloutley rock solid, happy to post a pic if you need. You need room to slide the bar out, in my case the width of one door, then pull it the other way. If you just use the outsides and no eye bolts in the centre, you only need a few inches to slide it out to one side.
 
Ive done it - I used a scaffold tube and 4 big eye bolts, two on the frame and two in the centre of the doors (one on each hinged door), I had to cut the eye bole shafts and also used epoxy and fibre glass to put them in so they do not protrude through to the outside, it's absloutley rock solid, happy to post a pic if you need. You need room to slide the bar out, in my case the width of one door, then pull it the other way. If you just use the outsides and no eye bolts in the centre, you only need a few inches to slide it out to one side.
Photos would be great please (y)
 
I’ve just bought a pair of those Asec security bolts for my son’s garage door. They bolt down into the concrete on either side and makes it a LOT harder to peel the door out and up at the bottom. I’ll also be bolting a piece of wood across the top where the door stops so it can’t be pulled out at the top either. Not foolproof but it all helps.
 
You can use the attach files button at the bottom of where you're typing (y)
I don't have that.. I used to when I subscribed but perhaps it's not allowed as a non paying member, PM me your number and I'll happily WhatsApp
 
No message facility (from me to you at least) - might be another symptom of you not coughing the cash?
 
No message facility (from me to you at least) - might be another symptom of you not coughing the cash?
Indeed, but very odd, I can browse the site and seek help and advise, but can't help others unless I pay a fee.. :unsure:
 
Layers. There’s not much a determined thief can’t overcome but multiple steps to defeat may well put them off. Chains, disc locks, sturdy door, camera, alarm, security light, car parked against garage door. I know they can work around them but ideally not all at once. I speak from painful experience
 


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