Gear Assist Pro, how would I know?

Toddy

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Have Gear Assist Pro on my RT and have a buddy who has just bought a 2015 GS LC TE, is there any way I could find out if it has it, other than trying it.
Don't really want to break anything.:confused::confused:
 
Thanks for the replies.

Found this on advrider.com

You can look for the sending unit hooked to the shift lever or you can do a medium acceleration in 2nd gear and a pull-up on the shift lever (don't change throttle position). If it sounds like the engine coughed and you ended up in 3rd you have it. If it doesn't shift you don't have it.

:thumb2
 
Or you could just look for the little black box (on the back of the motor) which the very nice man is pointing to in the video :rolleyes:
 
That nice little black box stopped working on my 2015 GS, it cost me 550 Euros at the dealership to replace it....:mad:
 
+ 1 I have it still not sure if I like it, just so used to using the clutch, same applies when using the wifes automatic car, maybe just getting old........:D

Was out with my mate today on his 2016 R1200RS, which is basically same Euro 3 as my GS. He said he barely uses it as it tends to bang through the gears and feels really jerky most of the time. We swapped bikes for a bit and he said mine was exactly the same (not how I find it). I told him how I use mine:
Upshifts - always roll on the throttle for each shift (doesn’t take much)
Down shifts - always roll the throttle to the stop (put a bit of pressure on it)

When we stopped again, he said it was a revelation, never felt it so smooth. I tend to ride my bike between 2500 and 4500 when out on the open road. For me, this is the sweet spot for the GSAP. Anything above 4500 and I will be in top anyway, as it has enough torque to pull like a train from then on.
 
Have Gear Assist Pro on my RT and have a buddy who has just bought a 2015 GS LC TE, is there any way I could find out if it has it, other than trying it.
Don't really want to break anything.:confused::confused:

What, break it? While you're accelerating apply a little upward pressure. If you have it, the bike will shift lickety split.
 
Was out with my mate today on his 2016 R1200RS, which is basically same Euro 3 as my GS. He said he barely uses it as it tends to bang through the gears and feels really jerky most of the time. We swapped bikes for a bit and he said mine was exactly the same (not how I find it). I told him how I use mine:
Upshifts - always roll on the throttle for each shift (doesn’t take much)
Down shifts - always roll the throttle to the stop (put a bit of pressure on it)

When we stopped again, he said it was a revelation, never felt it so smooth. I tend to ride my bike between 2500 and 4500 when out on the open road. For me, this is the sweet spot for the GSAP. Anything above 4500 and I will be in top anyway, as it has enough torque to pull like a train from then on.

Mines works fine mate when I decide to use it, no problems at all, it is just me liking the old clutch, some things never change, and I did not buy the bike for that, it was just on it so happy days if needed.........:beerjug:
 
What, break it? While you're accelerating apply a little upward pressure. If you have it, the bike will shift lickety split.

You seem to be implying that the system provides some sort of mechanical assistance to gear changing and on detecting the initial movement will complete the shift. I'm pretty sure this is not the case and that you have to manually provide the normal range of mechanical gear lever movement to complete a gear change, regardless of whether GSAP is fitted. As I understand it, all that the gubbins attached to the gear lever does is detect the initial movement of the lever and send a signal quickly enough to the ECU warning of the impending change so that it can do its thing (in the absence of any movement of the clutch lever being detected) to facilitate the clutchless change - either by cutting the power momentarily on upshifts, or blipping the throttle on downshifts.
 


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