GoPro Camera Mounts

[Mr Bean]

I have a GoPro Hero 3 and whilst it is a good camera off the bike there are real problems with vibration causing a wavy image.

I'm using a Ram clutch resovoir mount.

I am keen to have it bike mounted but not behind the screen.

Any suggestions..........!

 

[Loiq]

firstly ask yourself what shot do you want then find a place to mount it to get the shot!



I use a combination of RAM and Manfrotto grip seems fine on all the bikes I have a gotten to grips with...!

 

[(RIP) baggins]

Use some PC or indeed apple software to help with stabilisation

I have a GoPro Hero 3 and whilst it is a good camera off the bike there are real problems with vibration causing a wavy image.

I'm using a Ram clutch resovoir mount.

I am keen to have it bike mounted but not behind the screen.

Any suggestions..........!

Off direct topic, but because of the frontal aerodynamics of the go pro series I decided to buy a " Contour HD " camera setup....indeed I now have 2 of such. My first camera sits just outside the LHS of the screen on a rubber sucker mounted on the fairing body and the second cam I use on the side of my helmet for an alternative perspective when needed. I discovered early on that PC/iMac software can also play an interesting way of "stabilisation of the video images produced, but it is only latterly that I have proved to myself how much better "Cyberlink Director 10" is than apple equivalent for home use being far faster at compilation etc. You may judge my efforts on YouTube if you search for "Munrobaggins" channel( 43 movie uploads ) The last upload I made has been specifically adjusted by the use of PC software...so there you have it...software may really be of some help with your go pro setupust

 

[Mr Bean]

firstly ask yourself what shot do you want then find a place to mount it to get the shot!



I use a combination of RAM and Manfrotto grip seems fine on all the bikes I have a gotten to grips with...!

At this stage I'm not too concerned about what, more about stable images.

I'm using Ram products.

Where do you have yours mounted on the RT?

 

[Mr Bean]

Off direct topic, but because of the frontal aerodynamics of the go pro series I decided to buy a " Contour HD " camera setup....indeed I now have 2 of such. My first camera sits just outside the LHS of the screen on a rubber sucker mounted on the fairing body and the second cam I use on the side of my helmet for an alternative perspective when needed. I discovered early on that PC/iMac software can also play an interesting way of "stabilisation of the video images produced, but it is only latterly that I have proved to myself how much better "Cyberlink Director 10" is than apple equivalent for home use being far faster at compilation etc. You may judge my efforts on YouTube if you search for "Munrobaggins" channel( 43 movie uploads ) The last upload I made has been specifically adjusted by the use of PC software...so there you have it...software may really be of some help with your go pro setupust

Thanks for the info.

I'll have a look but the GoPro site says it's caused by high frequency vibrations and the sensor.

I've isolated the mount tonight using a high density foam and will try again tomorrow to see the (if any) difference.

 

[er-minio]

I'm using a Ram clutch resovoir mount.

Have you tried another Ram mount positioned in a more central position on the handlebars/steering plate.
It might vibrate less.

I have a Ram mount attached on the steering plate of my R1100S that I use either for the Zumo or the GoPro (sometimes) and the vibration is not that bad.

 

[Loiq]

At this stage I'm not too concerned about what, more about stable images.

I'm using Ram products.

Where do you have yours mounted on the RT?

you need the higher frame setting 60fps and medium resolution 720p

and the new camera should also do 120fps at 720p

that means very stable images....

that's for starters

then use the shorter of the RAM arms if you have one I use manfrotto magic grip to ram adaptor it allows me to grip onto anything solid plus movement on both x and y axis to give the camera a horizon...!

(you might want to check anything to make sure there's no hidden cables, which you will crush)

it's really that simple....

 

[Mr Bean]

you need the higher frame setting 60fps and medium resolution 720p

and the new camera should also do 120fps at 720p

that means very stable images....

that's for starters

then use the shorter of the RAM arms if you have one I use manfrotto magic grip to ram adaptor it allows me to grip onto anything solid plus movement on both x and y axis to give the camera a horizon...!

(you might want to check anything to make sure there's no hidden cables, which you will crush)

it's really that simple....

Thanks for the info - I was trying to avoid normal & ultra wide settings and use the narrow ones to avoid scenes that were 40% fairing - I couldn't see how to do this. From what I understood the manual says 30fps max when narrow view is preferred.

 

[Loiq]

yup but 30fps does not work as it gives wobbly results....

30fps is good when your bike is on the center stand...

I could sell you a beautiful high speed camera with a narrower field of view...

but it's 30K and only shoots 5 seconds which takes 5Gb of disc space to achieve that... bloody amazing results... oh and you'll need 2x 5000watt daylight coloured floodlights... and a long mains cable I guess....

 

[Mr Bean]

yup but 30fps does not work as it gives wobbly results....

30fps is good when your bike is on the center stand...

I could sell you a beautiful high speed camera with a narrower field of view...

but it's 30K and only shoots 5 seconds which takes 5Gb of disc space to achieve that... bloody amazing results... oh and you'll need 2x 5000watt daylight coloured floodlights... and a long mains cable I guess....

Am I fcuked without spending much more??

 

[Loiq]

ride slower...

all the sport camera's are wide angle, cos they are in the thick of the action type camera's...

samsung make a sports handycam thing around £200 it's alright but... the frame rate is there to always screw you up, I can't remember what it shoots it's around 50fps... but if you zoom in the camera lens magnifies the wobble.... because of the telephoto effect...

life is all about balance

you need for anything that moves at more than 10mph a higher frame rate or you need to ride about on a large snooker table or bowling green....



sorry to bring you the bad news...

you could zoom in post production by a factor of 2-3 and the picture might look ok.... hard to say without any footage... but it's a pain the arse and will need loads of rendering.... and upscaling...!

or you could hire me and I'll film your bike... with my camera it's cheaper than buying one yourself...

 

[Keyframe]

BASICS FIRST

In your HERO 3 settings menu, make sure it is set to PAL. This is the UK television system. NTSC is the American TV system and your HERO 3 will revert to NTSC as default setting each time you do a firmware update.

GOPRO's are superb bits of kit, I have a Hero 2 have shot some great rushes with it.

 

[Mr Bean]

BASICS FIRST

In your HERO 3 settings menu, make sure it is set to PAL. This is the UK television system. NTSC is the American TV system and your HERO 3 will revert to NTSC as default setting each time you do a firmware update.

GOPRO's are superb bits of kit, I have a Hero 2 have shot some great rushes with it.

I have tried both, but manual the NTSC settings use higher frame rates?

Lo-IQ, I think you had the answer in an earlier post with the 720 @ 60fps.

I'll just have to accept the wider view.

Funnily enough the longer arm gave less of a wavy picture than the short one - I think because it damped our much of the high frequency vibes.

 

[Keyframe]

Whatever, before editing I would suggest converting your go pro MP4 rushes using some freeware video converting software. Just make sure you choose the destination folder for the converted rushes which should preferably be on a separate HD on a FireWire or similar connection.

The converted rushes files will be HUGE compared to the original MP4 files shot by the Hero3. Once converted these rushes will play unrendered in FCP

I've not mentioned any video converting software, it's a matter of choice, they all do the same thing on both PC and MAC

Did I mention the sheer size of the high definition converted video files?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Keyframe]

http://youtu.be/4V8zT6SFfbs

I actually shot this using my Hero2's. I personally edited the rushes using FCP 7.

It is utter shite, on so many levels.

I'm sure Lo will post up a link to his own quality work at some point.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Loiq]

mr. Keyframe are you on some sort of medication? have you had a bump on the head or taken a tumble? is there someone you'd like me to call? We've never met and I worry about your posts there's normally some inner angst in many of them and I'm not sure I can help you...

To answer the OP NTSC or PAL it won't make much difference in the real world most LCD's PC or laptop monitors will play either. To be technically correct it would be handy if your inter cutting it other camera's to be all shooting the same frame rate...and resolution. But you can always work it out in "post" (time spent polishing it on an edit machine) but let's be blunt about it, unless you watch lots of really boring TV would you really see the glitsches.... probably no... also if your watching a whole sequence shot in one frame rate then again whats the issue.

At present you can't get the shot you want, the only choice you have is increase the frame rate till you get the results your happy with then worry about the content.

you could always once you have the results you want use software and alter whatever you have to fit into the cut, but unless your making a living from it... what's the point? The main thing to do is what you like and enjoy don't listen to other people and that way the results you have will be pleasing to you...!

the main difference people who use these camera's for a hobby want a stable sharp image, the shot duration etc. is really of no consequence. and the story is told by a live narration.

Camera operators and I use the term freely tend to be OCD bellends who can quote chapter and verse what the BBC white paper says about certain things.... they tend to latch onto small facts and make big deals from them. If they happen to work for the BBC it's normally worse cos they are so isolated from reality they can't take a shit without consulting a set of instructions for a few hours.

The OP question was, the pictures I get a wobbly.... how do I fix that...!

the simple answer is increase the frame rate or ride slower... it's not some pissing contest, or a discussion about which software. I saw no reference to that in any of the posts on the thread. The OP can see the pictures and they are wobbly. I think that the issue has been ID'ed and fixed.

I rent production equipment to lots of companies that supply all channels, I do live events some large, medium and some small. I build production solutions that work in any enviroment to which they are applied. Content at times does not fall into my remit, neither does creativity. If and when it does mostly it's normally covered by an NDA.

So let's leave it there shall we...

 

[mr_magicfingers]

I spend my working life alongside more money's worth of camera kit and the associated expertise than most people could comprehend. Listen to LoIQ he speaks wisdom from years of knowledge.

 

[Mr Bean]

http://youtu.be/4V8zT6SFfbs

I actually shot this using my Hero2's. I personally edited the rushes using FCP 7.

It is utter shite, on so many levels.

I'm sure Lo will post up a link to his own quality work at some point.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks for sharing but it appears the images are suffering the same as mine when the camera is rigidly mounted, i.e. wavy in places.

The GoPro site says it is caused by high frequency causing issues with the sensor.

http://gopro.com/support/articles/how-to-prevent-waves-distortions-videos

I did switch it to 720 @ 60fps but counter to my expectation the image seemed less smooth?

I've now placed some very high density foam under the mount to see if it cures the issue.

 

[Kawanor]

GoPro..vibration

It was hard to find a place,on the RT withouth vibration..

Below the blinker/mirror,is ok,,but not the best.

In the front,is better..(but not nice)

On the helmet,,is the best.......

 

[Mr Bean]

On the helmet,,is the best.......

Thanks for suggestions and very probably correct but looking like a Tellytubby ain't worth it!