gps power

Deleted account 250319001

Registered user
Joined
Sep 19, 2004
Messages
6,495
Reaction score
565
Im going to solder the live cable to my battery and also earth straight onto the batt.
this is for my GPS.
i've read the forums and it is 50/50 as to how and where.
somone tell me this is ok and i wont forget to turn it off and flatten my battery!


Garmin GPSmapCS :eek:
 
I soldered the ends of the bare wires and bolted them straight onto the battery. Don't forget a .5 amp in line fuse though. You'll only forget to turn it off if you leave it on the bike. Which I doubt you'll do unless you want it nicked or leave it in your garage (I do but still have not forgotten.
 
Solder to the battery!!!!

I would suggest that you connect to the post using a ringed connector, which you solder to the wiring, and fit a fuse and holder in line on the +ve feed, would not recommend soldering directly to the battery post.

You can then remove it , when you want too ,easily.

Gary.
 
I think..

I think Gary is right.. the idea of soldering to the battery posts sounds a bad idea, when you can easily crimp/solder some round ring connectors onto the ends.

Would make taking the leads off, and battery out easier.. if you ever needed too.. this is what I will be doing..

However i will be ensuring i remove the GPS prior to plugging in the optimate...
 
I'm not too keen on the "solder to the battery" idea either - nothing to do with the GPS, but just the general principle that you don't want to do things that can't be easily disassembled. For example, let's say you need to remove the battery some day, not for a battery related reason, but to get at some component behind it...

Pick up a couple of crimp-type connectors that have O type rings on the end of them. Crimp them onto your GPS cable, then take the bolts out of the battery clamps, and put the bolt back in, with the O type ring thing over the bolt. Costs nothing, simpler, safer, easier...

PanEuropean
 
"soldering"

I don't think the guy litteraly meant solder them to his battery.

As I replied just solder the ends of the bare wire to strengthen and protect them ( by all means add spades if you have them). Then BOLT them to the battery posts.
 
richie said:
"soldering"

I don't think the guy litteraly meant solder them to his battery.

.

never underestimate people !


:D :D :D
 
Oh, OK, I hadn't thought of it that way.

Soldered connections of any kind can be a bit of a problem on a motorcycle - although the physical and electrical bonding between the two surfaces that have been soldered together is excellent, unless you are very careful when doing the soldering (and apply the solder very sparingly), a stress point is set up where the solid (soldered) portion of the wire ends, and the woven (loose filaments) portion of the wire begins. It is for this reason that most manufacturers use only crimp fittings for electrical connections, and avoid the use of soldered fittings entirely.

Hence, my suggestion to crimp the wire to a circular lug, then attach that to the battery cable clamp, by putting it around the bolt that tightens the cable clamp to the battery.

PanEuropean
 
soldering

Cheers guys,
ive now done it, first i just crimped the wires onto a round connector and bolted onto the batery.
This was perfect, and very easy to do, Ref: having to take it off. sorted
BUT
the wires are so thin, that it did break off where it came off the crimped end, ive now soldered it and crimped it which (seems) alot stronger.
Job done
Thanks again.

;)
 
PAN is correct- most connections are crimped. They are far more reliable and you do not get what is called a dry joint which can be a problem with soldering.

One way to give the joint more strength to the joint is to use a small amount of what is called , HEAT TUBING OR HEAT SHRINK TUBING. You can normally get it at your local electronics components retailer. The tubing shrinks to about 1/3 of the original size when heat is supplied. It is excellent as it also keeps out moisture.

HOW TO DO IT
You fit a small amount (~30mm)of the tubing over the over the cable before you crimp the joint. You need to have the tubing size just larger than the cable to allow it to grip when you heat it. Then slide the tubing back down where you want the support and heat the tubing with a cigarette lighter, match or soldering iron. The tubing just tightens up on the joint/cable.

Sizes: 1.5, 3, 5, 6, 10, 16 & 20mm
It comes in many colours so you can also use it for polarity indication.

Here is a local electronics suppliers site to give you an indication what it looks like.

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVi...&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=816
 


Back
Top Bottom