Green Laner
- Thread starter Stirlingmoz
- Start date
I had a ride out in the sunshine today and visited Overland & Classic motorcycles in Leicestershire.
Amongst other things, Mike and Charlie dug out 2 pieces of BMW ‘unobtanium’ for me :
1. A monolever lower shock mount
This means I can now modify the G/S final drive unit to fit the shock absorber I’d like to use.
2. A G/S lower brake hose guide
This is no longer available from BMW and had thus far, been impossible to find.
Even though clearly busy, the guys let me pick their brains about aspects of the ‘green laner’ project and discussed their own builds over a great mug of tea.
Thanks guys - much appreciated
Amongst other things, Mike and Charlie dug out 2 pieces of BMW ‘unobtanium’ for me :
1. A monolever lower shock mount
This means I can now modify the G/S final drive unit to fit the shock absorber I’d like to use.
2. A G/S lower brake hose guide
This is no longer available from BMW and had thus far, been impossible to find.
Even though clearly busy, the guys let me pick their brains about aspects of the ‘green laner’ project and discussed their own builds over a great mug of tea.
Thanks guys - much appreciated
Money pit was back today - dropped off for an oil change and general check over (valves clearances etc)
Sun was out so worked in the garden..
Where to store the tank safely while I worked on it ?
Green laner of course
Just wanted to check my subframe measurements and get an idea of what the finished article may look like.
Waiting on an M10 end tap so I can modify the G/S final drive and get the back wheel and shock absorber in.
(Note the the Union Jack is the right way up now)
Sun was out so worked in the garden..
Where to store the tank safely while I worked on it ?
Green laner of course
Just wanted to check my subframe measurements and get an idea of what the finished article may look like.
Waiting on an M10 end tap so I can modify the G/S final drive and get the back wheel and shock absorber in.
(Note the the Union Jack is the right way up now
)
Sometimes you have to go backwards before you can move forwards.
Today was one of those days.
The front end of the bike is completely stripped out so I can fit new head race bearings and gaiters..
Today was one of those days.
The front end of the bike is completely stripped out so I can fit new head race bearings and gaiters..
New steering / head races fitted. New fork gaiters and indicator mounts fitted and it’s all back together.
Still don’t have a tap to do the final drive mods so it may be a bit of welding on the subframe next.
Still don’t have a tap to do the final drive mods so it may be a bit of welding on the subframe next.
The tap arrived 
and I managed to get a good thread cut into the final drive case.
I also had to open the throat out a little to allow the shock bolt body to slide in.
Lots of stopping, starting and measuring so the shock mount sits at the right height.
And here it is - a G/S final drive unit with a monolever bottom shock mount.
A completely reversible modification if needed.
It needs a good clean and then I can offer it up and check everything lines up and fits.
Still got that slight flattening on the wheel mounting side to address too.
As suggested, I will try some gentle
Dremeling and see how we go.
and I managed to get a good thread cut into the final drive case.I also had to open the throat out a little to allow the shock bolt body to slide in.
Lots of stopping, starting and measuring so the shock mount sits at the right height.
And here it is - a G/S final drive unit with a monolever bottom shock mount.
A completely reversible modification if needed.
It needs a good clean and then I can offer it up and check everything lines up and fits.
Still got that slight flattening on the wheel mounting side to address too.
As suggested, I will try some gentle
Dremeling and see how we go.
Little bit of progress this morning. Fitted the modified G/S final drive and got the rear wheel in.
The monolever shock absorber I wanted to use, now fits perfectly.
The inner face of the wheel hub still rubs against that slightly flattened section of the final drive.
Can’t ‘relieve’ any metal yet as son has my Dremel and all its attachments.
To allow things to spin freely, I have spaced the wheel out with 3 washers - pending Dremel return.
The monolever shock absorber I wanted to use, now fits perfectly.
The inner face of the wheel hub still rubs against that slightly flattened section of the final drive.
Can’t ‘relieve’ any metal yet as son has my Dremel and all its attachments.
To allow things to spin freely, I have spaced the wheel out with 3 washers - pending Dremel return.
I discovered an issue with the left fork leg when I fitted the gaiters.
The slider just dropped off the bottom of the stanchion. Nothing appeared to be holding it all together.
Got the left leg on the bench this morning to see what’s going on.
First job is to remove the big M12 cap head that holds the damper rod in.
Not knowing if this has any thread lock on it, I warmed it with a hot air blower and buzzed it off with a windy gun.
Got the leg contents spread out on the bench
Time for a clean and compare everything to a parts diagram to see if anything is damaged or missing.
Fortunately it’s all there and I think I also
found the smoking gun. The piston had become undone from the top of the damper rod.
The slider just dropped off the bottom of the stanchion. Nothing appeared to be holding it all together.
Got the left leg on the bench this morning to see what’s going on.
First job is to remove the big M12 cap head that holds the damper rod in.
Not knowing if this has any thread lock on it, I warmed it with a hot air blower and buzzed it off with a windy gun.
Got the leg contents spread out on the bench
Time for a clean and compare everything to a parts diagram to see if anything is damaged or missing.
Fortunately it’s all there and I think I also
found the smoking gun. The piston had become undone from the top of the damper rod.
Attachments
A quick trip to Wickes to buy some threaded bar resulted in a cheap tool to pull everything together against spring pressure, so I could re-insert the retaining circlip..
And it’s all back together and stays in one piece
Time to order some copper sealing washers and I may as well replace the fork seals now I have a method.
And it’s all back together and stays in one piece
Time to order some copper sealing washers and I may as well replace the fork seals now I have a method.
Inspired by a visit to Overland & Classic yesterday - thank you to @mikeyboy and Charlie for the tea and sage advice - I thought I ought to crack on a bit with this project.
Today I managed to fit a rear tyre which as well as being another step towards a rolling chassis, has weighed the back end of the bike down so I can dispense with the jars under the forks keeping it level.
Speaking of forks, these have now been fully stripped and internal parts cleaned. Rebuilt with new fork seals and copper sealing washers.
More work on the electrics including the fitting of a battery so I can begin to test the various systems - once can I find an ignition switch or temporarily hotwire it.
An old twin shock subframe has been sacrificed so that the badly shortened G/S subframe I had can, be rebuilt back to standard. All reinforced internally with mild steel round bar.
Next step is welding it up to make it strong again.
Today I managed to fit a rear tyre which as well as being another step towards a rolling chassis, has weighed the back end of the bike down so I can dispense with the jars under the forks keeping it level.
Speaking of forks, these have now been fully stripped and internal parts cleaned. Rebuilt with new fork seals and copper sealing washers.
More work on the electrics including the fitting of a battery so I can begin to test the various systems - once can I find an ignition switch or temporarily hotwire it.
An old twin shock subframe has been sacrificed so that the badly shortened G/S subframe I had can, be rebuilt back to standard. All reinforced internally with mild steel round bar.
Next step is welding it up to make it strong again.
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A bit of work on the electrics today and mocked up the front wheel.
The mocked up wheel is 18”, same as the rear.
I now understand this might be a bit controversial for a green laner and affect its off road ability.
I am torn
The mocked up wheel is 18”, same as the rear.
I now understand this might be a bit controversial for a green laner and affect its off road ability.
I am torn
It all depends on what you are going to ride as to whether a 21" wheel will really.make that much difference.
I have a broken G/S left side lighting / indicator / horn switch I’m trying to repair.
I’ve had it apart and used electrical contact cleaner on the the horn and indicator switches - and by some miracle they are both working.
I have also tidied up the wiring and insulation at the plug socket/s end.
I know I can buy a replacement plastic indicator knob and may well do that.
However, before I pull the trigger, I need some dip / main selector switch parts. The switch itself, and any springs etc.
Wondered if anyone had a damaged left side switch cluster with a working dip / main selector that I could buy and rob for parts ?
I’ve had it apart and used electrical contact cleaner on the the horn and indicator switches - and by some miracle they are both working.
I have also tidied up the wiring and insulation at the plug socket/s end.
I know I can buy a replacement plastic indicator knob and may well do that.
However, before I pull the trigger, I need some dip / main selector switch parts. The switch itself, and any springs etc.
Wondered if anyone had a damaged left side switch cluster with a working dip / main selector that I could buy and rob for parts ?
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